SF_EF8

Alright so I've had this issue twice already, at first I thought it was a fluke. After it happening again this weekend I'm determined it is not the clutch itself.

I replaced the factory clutch with an Exedy OEM replacement. I figured it was perfect for my setup since my car remains fairly stock besides bolt ons and probably makes 170 on a good day. I drove the car about 600 miles before really getting on it, and then began to slowly get on it. I then took it out to a track day where the clutch lasted about 7-8 laps. The pedal hit the floor and began to make a grinding noise, unfortunately I did not have a trailer at the time and drove the car home with the clutch beginning to slip.

I got home to pull the transmission and the meat on it on both ends was completely gone. The rivets had even scuffed the flywheel. I had thought that the flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly.
I did have the throw out bearing replaced as well.

I again ordered another OEM replacement Exedy clutch, and opted for a Exedy flywheel. Installed it all, and torqued down correctly. Now this one lasted me about 2 full track events and maybe 1000 miles of driving. Mind you I rarely drive my car so this is over a course of 6-7 months.

Now while attending the 3rd track event on this clutch this past weekend I went out on some warm up laps. I did a good moderate 5-6 laps, came back to check tire pressure, and went out again. Car felt great, had no issues that might have resulted on what happened next. While going into a corner, I applied brakes and was going to down shift to 2nd. As I hit the clutch, once again pedal to the floor. Took it out of gear and let it relax for a little as some cars drove by. It then became difficult to put in gear. Getting into the pits the clutch began to slip and is now making the same noise from my past experience.

Am I needing to upgrade my clutch or is there something else I need to bring attention to.

I'm fixing to order a new clutch, but with friends running autozone clutches with over 30k it seems as if upgrading isn't necessary.

Any ideas?

Boosted_01 R

Was the same pressure plate used each time, or clutch and pressure plate changed every time ? Because it sounds like a bad pressure plate..... On my beater I had a issues where it would be fine, and started slipping for no reason.... All of a sudden it would work fine, if parked up..... the heat seemed to be affecting the pressure plate, and was causing it to stick partially.

SF_EF8

Pressure plate was new as well.

I had ordered a same complete kit, pressure plate, disc, bearing, with the exception of the new flywheel the second time.

R6Elmo

I'm sorry I'm not going to be of much help, but maybe posting in the tranny tech sectino would get more responses, I don't see this being a type r specific issue. I doubt that the r-comps are the cause of this, especially since you're not making that much power to the wheels.

somewhat related question is, would a worn out clutch disk cause the pedal to go to the floor? my reaction to that would be a bad slave or master cylinder.

SF_EF8

I'm somewhat biased and prefer to stick to the R community

Tires I eliminated,it was one of the many ideas that were getting thrown at me just as the slave and cylinder, and a bent fork. I'd like to rule out as much as possible I'm hopes of narrowing it down to something.

I'm be pulling of transmission Wednesday and will begin to thoroughly go over everything.

94rs-turbo

iTrader: (6)

whats up with the clutch master and slave cylinder? no leaks under the dash?
odd that a clutch would make the pedal go to the floor honestly.

Maybe worn or have air pockets

never had a problem with excedy personally or anyone I know but it happens, I would recommend a higher up stage over the oem spec though

S2kRyan

The only thing that would make the clutch fall apart like that is a clutch build quality issue. Personally, in my R with the same power as yours I have broken 2 Exedy OEM replacment clutches very early on. I have never had the meat fall apart like you, but have broken the spring retainers on the disc twice and popped a PP rivet. IMO, the exedy OEM replacment kit, for anything other than daily commuting, is just super poor quality.

I currently have the Exedy Stage 1 kit and it has been doing great for over 30k now with daily commuting, driving from coast to coast, and HPDE's. Good luck.

ddwelch

Sebas I was also confused with the pedal getting stuck to the floor. This makes me think that it is hydraulic related, causing improper clutch engagement, thus resulting in a damaged/worn clutch. I forgot to ask if you checked your fluid at the track, but I am sure you did.

S2KRyan, I have been on a exedy oem for about 4k miles now. From the 500 mile marker, I would guess that 90% of the other miles have seen 4.5k+ on the rpm side. My friend in his track miata has the same clutch with more track miles and both have been fine. I totally agree with you that some can be faulty, but not all are poor quality. I hope Sebas's odds are better than that to get two totally crapped out clutches.

jdmspoonitr

iTrader: (1)

Did you bleed the clutch line and adjust the clutch pedal after installing the clutch? I have had zero issues with my ACT HDSS and that's with 15+ track days on it. I think something else is wrong with your car. If the pedal gets stuck to the floor it's a fluid issue generally.

Spunkster

It nothing else was done but replce the clutch and pressure plate tehn it's not a hydraulic issue. Sounds more like a complete failure of the pressure plate. Without it forcing the slave cylinder back in it will not force the pedal back up.

Personally I only use ACT heavy duty pressure plates and performance street sprung clutch. Never once had an issue. On my beater i've even mixed an oem clutch disk with a ACT heavy duty pressure plate without issues.

1GreyTeg

I'm going to just contribute my experiences thats it so you can rule stuff out.

My credentials are as follows, noone else needs to support me:

1) 01 Type-R with 50,000 miles on stock clutch, Toda FW and ATS 4.93 FD. Countless autocrosses, minimum 15 track days, almost Zero hard launches.

2) 06 EVO MR with 110,000 miles on still original stock clutch, no tranny mods but I already have choice goodies waiting for the long lasting impending doom. 4 full autocrosses, no track days, less than 5 hard launches and just a daily driver.

3) after long storage and I mean more than 12 months my Type-R clutch pedal went to the floor and wouldnt even allow me to start the car. When we bled and flushed the fluid and nothing more, absolutely no more issues. And I mean for casual driving, DD, track days and Autocrosses.

4) My EVO developed a leaky line to the clutch which made a sh1tty drive home but I did and rev-matching was Key, We swapped the broken line with some flared brake line from autozone and the last 50,000 miles haven't been any issue.

I feel like many others that if install is perfect. And the Product is free of defect. And there are no leaks Then,,, Guess what? Or there is another Gremlin afoot that I'd love to learn about and know of.

Finland

I'm a huge exedy fan having used their products almost exclusively in my 3.5 years on speed shop ownership.

I would troubleshoot pedal and hydraulics. I guess anything is possible, but 2 units failing that quickly? I assume driver error can be ruled out?

racebum

you chose the wrong clutch. it's not holding capacity that's the problem it's reinforcement. you can pop springs and kill an exedy oem with track use. the stage 1 is MUCH beefier with a stronger clamp load but more importantly a reinforced drive spline, thicker steel and thicker springs. it won't come apart on you like an oem will

SF_EF8

When the clutch was put in I did adj the pedal, I did not touch bleeder due to it never being disconnected. Fluid in reservoir never changed, no leaks.

I'm with spunkster, I didn't touch anything during clutch installs so I am somewhat sure it is clutch failure.

I'm torn between ordering a stage 1 exedy or a competition stage 2. Ive never had issues with exedy up until now.

Here are some pics, you can see the meat on the clutch on flywheel side is completely gone. The flywheel looks as if i can still resurface, i'll check with machine shop monday.

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

that flywheel looks fine. and honestly i personally always bleed the clutch after a job even if the system was never opened . just to rule out that .

and fwiw stay the **** away from competion clutch. but im sure you already knew that lol

racebum

flywheel looks fine as long as you can't feel any waves in it. the air sander and 180 grit will take the surface crap off. wipe down with brake clean and install a stage 1

there there is any warping at all you can feel have the flywheel machined

i also have killed an oem only mine didn't shred, it just blew a chunk off. the stage 1 won't do this

when you look at a stage 1 vs the oem it's obvious where the extra money is. the clutch is physically heavier and all the metal is thicker. even the springs are thicker. riviting job on the friction material is also improved.

this or if i remember right ACT makes a hardcore organic clutch as well. the exedy 1 is just less expensive. mid to low 200s on ebay if i remember right.