HondaJon

Hey guys; I have removed my Sparco buckets, belts, and roll bar after deciding that HPDE is too expensive at 22 years old and still in school.

There are now drill holes left in the tub that I'm guessing would be good to fill back in. I know that water is probably the main concern for getting up through them, but is there also any possibility that stray exhaust gasses are coming up through these drill holes (I don't wanna drive with the windows up if this is the case).

I have once tried to seal things up with some black silicone, but that alone did not do a great job.

Anyone who has removed their track equipment have any tips about returning the tub to street car form (no holes)? And also maybe ease my anxiety about the possiblity of fumes entering the cabin (even though my parents tell me stories all the time about how all their old cars had rust holes in the floor).

Thanks in advance,
Jon

Tweakmeister

ever feel tired? roll down your windows...

quick6

Why not source some appropriate-sized plastic grommets from a paint shop or something?

IGGY

I would also like to know this. I don't want to take my car to the bodyshop to get them welded.

quick6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also like to know this. I don't want to take my car to the bodyshop to get them welded. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just borrow a mig welder and practice. shouldn't take you more than ~3 hours to practice and do the spot filling yourself... probably less since the sheet metal is much thicker there than other areas.

IGGY

I don't want to try that on the R, maybe another car.

quick6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't want to try that on the R, maybe another car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you practice on sheet metal from Home Depot and then do the real deal on the R. Then get an angle grinder and clean it up.
-Chris ...who has welded extensively on an R

IGGY

Ok, I can try that, but here's another thing.

I have a hole that goes through the center part that has sort of a gap in the middle, kind of like it's hollow. If I weld up both sides I would not be able to paint the inside, will the heat take off any paint that is there and cause rust?

quick6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I can try that, but here's another thing.

I have a hole that goes through the center part that has sort of a gap in the middle, kind of like it's hollow. If I weld up both sides I would not be able to paint the inside, will the heat take off any paint that is there and cause rust?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In order to weld successfully you'd need to strip the area that you are welding of paint. Then you'd weld it closed and and repaint.

If there is condensation inside of the hollow space then rust could become an issue. But hell... the likelihood is very low.


Modified by quick6 at 7:32 PM 6/30/2005

.RJ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't want to try that on the R, maybe another car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its just a car......

IGGY

Yeah, it's my car and there is no way I want to do something stupid and mess it up.

ITR#132

there is also JB weld & the putty stuff from the auto parts store.

Tweakmeister

bondo maybe?

I've wondered this too...would guess the body sealer would do it. It's important to make sure nothing rusts.

Bbasso

Use Seam Sealer, Designed to seal sheet metal overlap joints that have been spotwelded, riveted, or bolted together. Can be painted when dry. Remains flexible and resistes oil, fuel and other automotive fluids.

uNF$@#!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use Seam Sealer, Designed to seal sheet metal overlap joints that have been spotwelded, riveted, or bolted together. Can be painted when dry. Remains flexible and resistes oil, fuel and other automotive fluids.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or underbody coating....

i'd use black silicone to fill up the hole, then jbweld the bottom "hole" - let dry, then silicone that, and then put on black undercoating over that.

IGGY

Sick Bbasso!

which one of these two?

http://products3.3m.com/catalo..._html

http://products3.3m.com/catalo..._html

Bbasso

either one should be fine, it depends on the size of the hole(s).

Be sure to clean it properly and make sure there is NO moisture before applying the seam sealer, or you could start a rust trap.

Use gloves with that stuff, trust me.

IGGY

How would I get rid of moisture?

Bbasso

heat gun.

IGGY

so seal one side -&gt; use heat gun at the same time have vaccume on other hole to suck air out -&gt; puddy other side with vaccume still on and area warm?

Bbasso

if you keep the area warm enough that the moisture will evap then I don't see why you can't blob it on the top then the bottom . Just try to do it on a low Humidity day, I'm sure that will help, or even better do it in a A/Ced room

IGGY

Good idea. I can turn on the AC in the car close the doors and vacume from the out side. That will suck the ac air out and take out the moisture and not have to worry about paint damage with the heat gun, brilliant!

Chris F

Have you guys considered putting the bolts back in? I mean, come on.. you already have something that fills the holes

Bbasso

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you guys considered putting the bolts back in? I mean, come on.. you already have something that fills the holes </TD></TR></TABLE>


Bahhh that's too easy

Dave-ROR

I eventually need to do this to fix the.. hmm.. 36 holes in my floorpan.