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Hey guys, new to Honda-Tech so "WHAD UP" to all you vet's out there. Just wondering if my fellow R crew would help me out on a block question? I've been seeing alot of Dart block's out & around here lately, just wondering how much it would cost for a assembled B20 solid decked block from them.

Does Dart even assemble thier own block's or it it a DIY kinda thing? Any help would be kick ***, and maybe some thought's on em' if anyone is running a B series Dart block... Thanks

92TypeR

DART blocks are separate castings done in-house. They are solid deck and come with 84mm bore, with 85mm being max bore diameter. If you order a DART block from DART, you will get just that, a bare block. You will need to install an oil pump, water pump, all sensors, and of course, pistons/rods/crank.

I'm not sure if DART offers a standard deck height, something to check on, but all DART blocks I have seen are tall decks, and are ideal for running 91-98mm cranks.

If you are just looking to go 2.0L, it would be cheaper to send a bare B18 out for sleeving.

Pondus

The Dart blocks are available in two deck heights, std. B18 and talldeck (+14mm) and in 81.5mm and 84.5mm bore. But either way they are unfinished blocks that needs a lot of love to be ready for use. I know because I run a talldeck Dart myself and besides getting it bored/honed to 85mm I had to do a lot of prep work on it before it was ready for assembly.

Here's info about them : http://www.dartheads.com/hondab.aspx

For me buying a Dart was also a question about cost, since it would cost me a lot of $ sending out my stock block for a sleeve job, I don't trust any local companies here in Norway to do such a job. So I got a good deal on this one, got it shipped over and had a local machine shop do the bore and hone, did the rest of the job myself and I still have a B18C6 block I can use in another car.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Dart blocks are available in two deck heights, std. B18 and talldeck (+14mm) and in 81.5mm and 84.5mm bore. But either way they are unfinished blocks that needs a lot of love to be ready for use. I know because I run a talldeck Dart myself and besides getting it bored/honed to 85mm I had to do a lot of prep work on it before it was ready for assembly.

Here's info about them : http://www.dartheads.com/hondab.aspx

For me buying a Dart was also a question about cost, since it would cost me a lot of $ sending out my stock block for a sleeve job, I don't trust any local companies here in Norway to do such a job. So I got a good deal on this one, got it shipped over and had a local machine shop do the bore and hone, did the rest of the job myself and I still have a B18C6 block I can use in another car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I work @ a machine shop, so all of my machining cost's would be maybe a case of beer or 2.. Kinda a bonus there! Where you happy with the Dart block? Any Pro's & Con's to her?

And about the tall deck's (the +14) are they mainly for running all motor set up's? If they arn't do I need to go with a differant head or some variation of one? My plan's are to put on my Full Race Pro Am kit and gun for about 650+ WHP, so I'm not exatly sure if i wanna just go with a overbored block. I do however wanna run atleast a 2.0 liter block.

How does stroaking, compared to boring, or even a bored/stroaked motor effect hp/tq, and the overall powerband of the car? I've never stroaked a motor so I'm not exactly sure how it works, the only thing I've dont is a +bore on a LS/VTEC.

Thanks for the help though man, I appreciate it.

Pondus

Tall decks are for running longer stroke (92mm+) and still be able to use stock compression height pistons and longer rods to maintain a decent r/s ratio. Still uses the same heads, either P72 or PR3, doesn't matter if it's a FI or NA motor.

If you want a bulletproof FI setup go for the 81.5mm block and bore it to 83mm, that way you gain some cc's but still has a lot of sleeve thickness. If something happens, it can be bored up 0.5mm a couple of times before you run out of sleeves. A 83mm x 95mm would be 2054cc. My own setup is 85mm x 92mm yealding 2088cc.

Longer stroke will affect the powerband, it will give more torque but at the same time lower the practical rpm limit a bit, partly because of the extra piston speeds. Max torque will also be produced at lower rpm.