Austin

Alright...I've been burning a little oil here and there, but until recently I couldn't figure out when I was burning it. Here is what I have learned:

at idle - no oil burnt
under acceleration - no oil burnt
when going from on throttle to off throttle(off ramp), when I come to a stop I can see a puff of oil smoke and smell burnt oil.
head to a stop light, rev match to lower gears miss the light, come to a stop...same thing, see a puff of oil smoke and smell burnt oil.

Currently using Mobil 1 5w30, car has over 40,000 miles on it.
I pulled the PCV valve and the check valve is still functioning, both sides of the PCV valve has a fair amount of oil on it.

I'm at a loss here...anything I can do?

Austin

Chris

Stop trying to rev-match.

Overfilled?

So, the puffs of smoke are only at throttle lift?

Hmmm..

Stop using Mobil 1 Synth.... or like me, maybe its too late

Haunt

I have no faith in that chit

Shark Tank

mobil 1 synth is castrol dino oil

BlazinITR

Austin:

Your not alone! I burned through some Mobil one 5w30, which only lasted around 1,500 miles. I'm going to just stick with the Mobil one 10W30 from now on!

Cal: Who hit the VTEC crossover point that didn't have come on. Gets home to check the oil, which the ITR didn't have any!

Dirt

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=417429

Try 10w30 or 10w40 of your fav. oil.

Johnny Tran

off throttle lift can show signs of valve seal leakage...

cheap easy fix if this happens to be the case. for fun, do a leakdown test. will show proof positive

[edit] and yes, consider this my only usefull post for the year. I will now go back to killing stunnas and newbies [edit]


[Modified by Johnny Tran, 5:42 PM 2/18/2003]

SlapSmak

I am currently having my excess oil usage documented by the dealer. Same problem here, using 3-4 quarts (M1 5W30) in a 2000 mile period. Hopefully we will be able to identify the problem as toasted oil rings and get some resolution. Other than the oil burning problem, the biotch pulls like a freight train, great compression numbers and leakdown. Nice black bumper on a yellow car.

Austin

I've been thinking of doing a leakdown test...just haven't gotten around to borrowing a friends tools to test it yet.


Woohoo...useful post

Austin

Can you guys stop blaming it on the oil...I really don't care about your opinion on the oil, for your information it also happens on the 10w30 mobil 1. Please don't be so quick to blame it on the oil.

Austin

J_Edwards

I was going to recommend a leakdown test as well. I remember from the video of your dyno pulls as well that your oil burning problems were quite similar to Vincent (JDM_EK_161). Upon rebuiding his motor he didn't re-hone the block and as a result he has ring sealing problems. As a result of those ring sealing problems, he is burning oil at high rpm's under load, which if I remember correctly, your car did on the dyno. Hopefully your leakdown will give more clues as to what ails your motor.

Austin

I'll see when I can borrow the guage for the leakdown, hopefully I can take care of it later this week.

During the dyno day I thought that I'd test out some high octane gas...well since the timing map wasn't setup for it I ran rich with a lovely black cloud of unburnt fuel. I believe that the oil was right after I went off throttle...but I'd have to find the video again to double check that.

Big Phat R

I have the same problem with MOTUL synthetic SV300 (which is <u>very</u> expensive).

I just consider oil consumption normal - otherwise my car runs great!

Chris

My situation EXACTLY. I was blowing smoke in VTEC and high load/RPM

My oil rings were the fault..

Bob#455

Austin, I know this isn't what you want to hear, but it's THE OIL! You may not care for opinions on the oil, but it's pretty much a FACT at this point in time that 99% of people that complain of burning oil are using synthetic. Nothing against your Mobil 1, but if you were to replace the oil rings and then use synthetic again, you'd probably end up with the same problem.

Dirt

Oh, but it's NOT the oil! Point being, read the link I had sent above as it could do you some good. Note the HTHS #s in oils. Higher wieght usually translates to high HTHS which may lower consumption.

Mr.Integra

Austin: i was in the same situation as you. I used to use redline 5w-30. It burned A LOT.. like a quart in a week. However once i switched to redline 10w-40, it stopped burning.

jansenrw

same sitution here down under!!!! My engine blew up. Well I'm rebuilding the whole bottom end, need a new toda kit!!!
I was using Motul 800V, same situation as you. Am running higher compression though...

Let us know what the problem is..

So is it Oil rings, oil, valve stem seals????

tampaSi

Stupid question --

Will a leakdown test be able to diagnose bad valve seals?

Im having a similar problem and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the valve seals, i would just like reassurance before pulling the head

OutLaw MR

Do an oil consumption test (normal driving conditions)first perform oil change use Honda 5w30 and filter record date mileage added qts.etc.you must check oil level every time you get gas if you find oil level low (lower mark dipstick) add then record info.the test will need to run for twice the estimated consumption mileage for example if you estimate your car is using about a quart every 300 miles you must track it for at least 600 miles.Note if consumption excedded 1 qrt. in a 1000 miles repairs maybe necessary I would first suspect the valve stem seals.
btw thicker oil burns faster than thinner oil

Asahi

I burned mobil1 pretty bad in my 2000 R with the same symptopms. Other oils dissappeared much less.

jond

This doesn't mean theres a problem with the oil. It means theres a problem with your engine. People have been putting thick oils in worn out engine since the 50's to stop them from smoking. If you have to use a 40 weight to make your honda stop smoking, you have a problem, and should get it taken care of under warantee.

SlapSmak

engines do not burn oil because of synthetic. If an engine is broken in properly, on conventional oil, without running the **** out of it, it will never burn a significant amount after switching to synthetic. I have been running Syn in my last 5 cars, all Hondas or acuras. The R is the only one which has an oil consumption problem. All these cars, an 84 1500S, a 89 SI, a 92 SI and a 2000 GSR all had the **** run out of them in autocross and "other" types of racing. all were broken in perfectly and once hitting 2500 miles were all switched to Mobil 1 5W30. The GSR was run on 0W30 and never burned a drop. So BS on "its the oil" that is a crock of ****. When the oil rings are not seated properly, they do not sweep the oil off the cylinder walls as they decend, causing the oil which remains on the walls to burn. I will have the bottom end replaced or rebuilt under warranty, the oil is not the issue.

Willard

Switching from 5w-30 to 10w-30 helped my consumption a bit.
I will use synth. oil until a dyno oil can stand the temps that the ITR motor runs at.

Q:
-test pipe? (my consumption went up greatly with that installed)
-check both pcv valves? (i just bought two new ones and installed them even after they tested fine)
-aem intake?
-filter on the valve cover breather?


[Modified by Willard, 9:37 AM 2/19/2003]

rambler

Austin... I have EXACTLY the same issue with my C5...

I won't go into my original issue but I have rebuilt the bottom end using JE pistons (and JE rings) as well as eagle rods and the other goodies... after the rebuild I did a proper break in with dino oil and all that good stuff... I then started running M1 synth and started to notice the puff at the exact time you are. ARGGH

Went through several issues to diagnose the issue and we decided it was the valve seals... replaced them... nope still had the same issue. Well then it must be the guides right? Rebuilt the head this offseason and replaced all of the valve guides (honed to match each valve individually and are smooth as a babys butt) nope... didn't solve the issue either. ARGGH

I am still battling the issue and have yet to solve it.

BTW - a leakdown test won't tell you if it is the guides or seals, as it is performed with the valves closed. It would tell you if you had a problem with the valve seating itself in the head (ie bent valve).

My thoughts are that it has to do with crank case pressure and vacuum/PCV. (11.6/1 CR) I am still trying to get my mind around this issue and have been doing a TON of reading on the topic... to date I have just confused myself. I have since taken a step back and am planning on attacking the issue again in March. So, as the hatchcrap sits she consumes some oil... it is one of the things I deal with.

Next oil change I will be going to 10-40 or 15-40, I am willing to try anything once (maybe).

Please keep us up to date on your findings. Additionally, if you would like to discuss this further please do not hesitate to PM me.

Nash - who is somehow comforted that there are others in the same boat.