DC4_Dad

So, I bought my Integra over the summer and it was sitting for a while so I've been playing catch-up with all its maintenance (bearings, brakes, clutch, etc.) and it's got almost 200k on it. I asked the previous owner if he's done the timing belt and he said no. I ordered a Gates kit with a belt, water pump (gasket included) and tensioner. This will be my first time doing it, any advice is welcome. I bought it bone-stock so it still has the air conditioner, mud guards, timing belt covers, etc. I've got a Haynes manual that I'll use for my torque specs and everything but if there's any issues you could address ahead of time before I take stuff apart it would be really helpful. Like do I have to use an impact gun to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without turning it from dead center? I don't use any air tools but if it's completely necessary I could get my hands on some. Thanks in advanced!

B_Swapped93

GET A CRANK PULLY HOLDER, I can post a pic but it's in my build thread. as for air tools no not needed nice but I can get away with a 1/2 dr 2ft bar.. if you REALLY need to get a 3/4'' drive but that's most likely not needed. if the engine is in the car undoing the tensioner bolts can be extremely annoying, be carful not to smash your knuckles when getting it off. the t-belt cover bolts are best removed with a "gear wrench" 10mm idk what your tool collection is like but not too much is needed.

TheRealTegger

An electric will work really really well, and needs no compressor. You can get something spendy like a DeWalt, or you can get a Harbor Freight unit for a lot less. An electric will obviate the need for holding the pulley still (and with a manual tranny you won't need a holder to tighten the bolt either).

My 1/2" DW-293 has been absolutely fantastic, and has NEVER failed to remove ANY bolt I have EVER used it on. I have tackled jobs easily that would have been nightmares without the DeWalt. Rebuilt my entire suspension with it. Piece of cake.



I have Barry Soben's entire Website that he bequeathed me after he pulled it from the Web that covers pretty much anything you might need to know about the timing belt change. I haven't added to my own site yet, but it's available as a ZIP file for download. Just let me know.

DC4_Dad

I heard that taking the engine mount off the head and lowering the engine (under a wooden block with a jack) can make it easier to access all the bolts and belts from underneath the car. And if I get that crank pulley holder, I don't need air tools? Is that something I could rent from Autozone? I'm kinda tight on money.

B_Swapped93

if you do lower it consider this...you're tugging at the already thin mounts and at 200K I'll bet the rear is on its way out. the rear always goes first then the trans and almost never does the driver actually crap out. No I do just fine with all my 1/2'' I do have a full set of 3/4'' for my truck/work but its just been used on the car once. go see I don't know. a good thing to do is soak the nut in pb blaster overnight

DC4_Dad

Okay, I think I'll just use the crank pulley holder. But is this something I have to buy or could I rent it from Autozone? Don't I have to take the engine off that mount to get the belt off and put the new one on anyways? I wouldn't lower it considerable but I heard it makes it a lot easier to get to the tensioner. I hear you on the motor mounts though... I should replace those when I get the chance. I know the torque mounts need replacing as it is.

B_Swapped93

you do need to remove the mount, just put a jack under it and keep it at the same level. its $14 bucks if you buy it.

TheRealTegger

You do need to remove the engine mount(s) from the timing belt side of the engine, but you don't need to lower the engine. All you need to do is put a jack under the oil pan to compensate for the engine mount having been removed, so the engine doesn't fall down.

Call them and ask. You may even be able to rent an electric impact gun, which would be the best thing of all. You don't realize how easy things can be until you've used an electric.

And here's a tip: Use Wite-Out to put identifying marks on the pulleys and belt. Transfer those marks to the new belt. That way you don't need to worry so much about keeping the cams in perfect alignment while the belt is off.

DC4_Dad

Okay I figured I would have to. And I'll definitely look into what's available for rentals. But what do you mean transfer those marks onto the new belt? Idk how that would help me... The cams have to have the arrows pointing upward while the crankshaft pulley notch should be aligned with the arrow on the timing belt cover. What would I be aligning the marks on the timing belt with? It doesn't make sense to me... Sorry, this is the first time doing this.

tamboo

see page 6-51 and following in the 94 manual:

Index of /download/Manuals/FSM/Honda

TheRealTegger

If you don't have the professional tool that locks the cams together solidly, it can be very easy to get one of the camshafts off by one tooth.

Even with a drill bit inserted into the holes on top, the cams will always rotate slightly, leaving you wondering if you're dead-on or not.

Using Wite-Out to put identifying dots on the cams, crank and belt allows you to be 100% sure you've got the new belt on exactly the way the old belt came off.

For example...
(before removing the old belt)
- For one cam, put ONE dot on the cam pulley and TWO on the belt, one on either side of the pulley dot.
- For the other cam, put TWO dots on the pulley and ONE on the belt, centered between the two pulley dots.
- For the crank, put two dots on the pulley and THREE on the belt, again, centered.
- So each location has its own dot scheme that can't get mixed up with the others.
- Then you put the new belt on top of the old, tooth for tooth, and duplicate the dots from the old belt onto the new belt.
- Then you install the new belt, making sure the marks are lined up exactly as they came apart. No questions. No watching arrows. Easy.

schrader3649

timing belt is easier than it seems. dont have to use impact gun or special crank tool.
i've always just had someone stand on the brakes while in 5th gear to break crank bolt loose and also to torque it down.

the manual is your friend. just make sure everything is lined up right. if its not then take belt off and correct things.

DC4_Dad

How does having them hold down the brakes help keep the crankshaft from turning?

schrader3649

if its in gear, brakes hold everything in place. just like if you were driving and you stopped without puting clutch in, engine would stall.
just make sure brakes are pressed hard. i've always done it this way, never had an issue.

DC4_Dad

Okay, I'll definitely try doing this then because I'm limited to my resources. Thank you all, I'll let you know how things go this weekend.

tamboo

i put a big screwdriver in the brake rotor slot next to the caliper, works like a charm.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

lol.

schrader3649

what?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

In your example, the application of the brakes did not have anything to do with the engine stalling. The brakes held nothing in place. The engine stalled because the car was in gear. In the same instance, lets say you were driving and released your foot from the accelerator without applying the brakes. The car would slow down on its own and engine would ultimately stall out.

schrader3649

way to be nit picky. yes,its not the brakes per say that stall the engine. engine at that point cant overcome the inertia of the car. presumably when doing timing belt front wheels are off the ground, there is no inertia beyond weight of wheels/brakes, so brakes must be applied. obviously brakes themselves dont stall engines, otherwise we would never get where were going.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Well, you asked why I lol'ed... I just responded.