2000GSR

Does anyone know the torque specifications on the valve cover bolts and the header bolts? Thanks in advance.

boosted k20

u dont wanna torque em tooo much. just tighten the nut until u feel resistance then give it a 1/4 turn. they dont need to be torqued alot. i think it was around 7 ft/lb

kennyvb

from helms:

7.2 ft/lb for valve cover

23 ft/lb for header bolts

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

don't even try putting a torque wrench on the valve cover nuts unless you have a 1/4" or 3/8" drive in-lbs torque wrench that you can set to 86-87 in-lbs (7.2 ft-lbs * 12 in/ft).

I just snug them down with a 1/4" ratchet, holding the ratchet close to the head so it's pretty much impossible to overtighten.

Code Blue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't even try putting a torque wrench on the valve cover nuts unless you have a 1/4" or 3/8" drive in-lbs torque wrench that you can set to 86-87 in-lbs (7.2 ft-lbs * 12 in/ft).

I just snug them down with a 1/4" ratchet, holding the ratchet close to the head so it's pretty much impossible to overtighten.</TD></TR></TABLE>


ditto !

aeon

yeah, be careful when torquing them down. snug tight them then use the torque wrench and torque them to spec. do it slowly though, i broke one and stripped 2 of them already.

CA6VTEC

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> Those bolts are like toothpiks. Maybe even weaker. </FONT>

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, be careful when torquing them down. snug tight them then use the torque wrench and torque them to spec. do it slowly though, i broke one and stripped 2 of them already. </TD></TR></TABLE>

there really is no need to torque them, just snug them down. I don't think any ft-lbs torque wrenches will accurately read that low, you pretty much have to use an in-lbs torque wrench if you're really bent on torquing them to spec.

xprohx

So its not crucial to torque the header bolts or valve cover bolts? Last week when my header went in I thightened the bolts real tight (maybe too tight).

And for the valve cover, are you talking about the dinky little 10mm nuts like those on the spark plug cover?

aeon

hmm, thats weird because mines go that low. it starts with 1 ft lb. and goes up to 150 ft lbs

tommymoose

I just broke a valve cover bolt. I rigged up something temporary that works, but what do I have to do to replace the stud?

aeon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommymoose &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just broke a valve cover bolt. I rigged up something temporary that works, but what do I have to do to replace the stud?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, first you're going to have to go to acura and buy a new stud and maybe a new cap/nut. Then open your valve cover, remove the broken stud, replace with the new one and put your valve cover back on. simple as that.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, thats weird because mines go that low. it starts with 1 ft lb. and goes up to 150 ft lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

So does mine, but most are entirely innacurate that low. The better torque wrenches (like Snap-On) don't even go below 50 lb-ft on their 1/2" drive wrenches. When mine is set down that low, the click is so light that you can barely even feel or hear it.

aeon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So does mine, but most are entirely innacurate that low. The better torque wrenches (like Snap-On) don't even go below 50 lb-ft on their 1/2" drive wrenches. When mine is set down that low, the click is so light that you can barely even feel or hear it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe we have different torque wrenches or maybe yours just worn out. all of my clicks are the same, even the lower setting sound the same.

boosted k20

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So its not crucial to torque the header bolts or valve cover bolts? Last week when my header went in I thightened the bolts real tight (maybe too tight). </TD></TR></TABLE>

u gotta torque the header bolts to 23 ft-lb's. i torqued mine to 25 ft-lbs. the valve cover bolts, u just need to tighten them hand tight. if u tighten it too much, the bolt will snap

xprohx

Ahh damn, I guess I have to invest some money in a torque wrench. Any particular kinds work well?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xprohx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahh damn, I guess I have to invest some money in a torque wrench. Any particular kinds work well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just have a Great Neck 1/2" torque wrench from AutoZone, I tested it against my friend's Snap-On 1/2" torque wrench on my lug nuts, and the accuracy of mine seems to be right on par to his, but that's up in the 80 lb-ft range, though. His Snap-On wrench won't even go below 50 lb-ft. You have to use the 3/8" drive wrench for that.

Craftsman is a good one, my grandfather has one in 3/8" drive in-lbs., which I borrow when I'm doing engine work. I like using it because it not only clicks when you reach the specified torque, but the handle also "breaks away" slightly, which makes it easier to feel when you've reached the torque setting. Those usually run around $80-$100. The Great Neck one would be fine for the header bolts, or what I usually use mine for, suspension work and wheel lug nuts. If you're doing work on the actual head or block and all those parts, where torque settings are absolutely critical, I would invest in a Craftsman or Snap-On torque wrench.