synthetic oil to regular engine oil
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synthetic oil to regular engine oil
I bought a dc2 teg with type r engine, the previous owner has been using synthetic blend and he advised me not to switch to a regular engine oil without synthetic , otherwise it ll have a bad consequences etc...i have heard that its a myth etc, but i did like to hear from your experience if you guys has switched from synthetic to regular oil ?
im not a fan of synthetic , also i recalled my former honda mechanic advised me not to use synthetic because its tooo thin and it ll spun the internal engine bearing. give me some inputs , i wld appreciate thanks
im not a fan of synthetic , also i recalled my former honda mechanic advised me not to use synthetic because its tooo thin and it ll spun the internal engine bearing. give me some inputs , i wld appreciate thanks
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
the myth of sythetic being to thin is all BS. you can get synthetic in all weights of normal oil, your mechanic is a dumb *** if he told you its too thin. If high end euro's with high reving V8's and 10's can run sythetic why can't a 4 banger honda?
synthetic oil soaks into metals and seals where as normal oil will just sit ontop of those surfaces therefore providing a superior protection over conventional oil. I've heard that switching back and forth can hurt the motor but I did it in my car and have had no problems whatsoever in the 2 years i've owned it.
synthetic oil soaks into metals and seals where as normal oil will just sit ontop of those surfaces therefore providing a superior protection over conventional oil. I've heard that switching back and forth can hurt the motor but I did it in my car and have had no problems whatsoever in the 2 years i've owned it.
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
You can switch from synthetic oil to conventional oil (and vice versa) without any problems (as you have already experienced). You just won't get those benefits when you're using conventional oil.
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
I bought a dc2 teg with type r engine, the previous owner has been using synthetic blend and he advised me not to switch to a regular engine oil without synthetic , otherwise it ll have a bad consequences etc...i have heard that its a myth etc, but i did like to hear from your experience if you guys has switched from synthetic to regular oil ?
im not a fan of synthetic , also i recalled my former honda mechanic advised me not to use synthetic because its tooo thin and it ll spun the internal engine bearing. give me some inputs , i wld appreciate thanks
im not a fan of synthetic , also i recalled my former honda mechanic advised me not to use synthetic because its tooo thin and it ll spun the internal engine bearing. give me some inputs , i wld appreciate thanks
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
The previous owner of my car used 5w-30 Castrol GTX dino oil in my car from 0-90K miles when I bought it. I then used Mobil 1 synthetic from about 90K to 110K miles. Then I switched to 5w-30 Valvoline MaxLife (conventional back then, now it's a synthetic blend) and ran that from about 110K all the way up to my most recent oil change at 278K miles. Now I just went back to Mobil 1 full synthetic a few weeks ago, but this time with 0w-30.
Oil is much thicker when cold, and thus about 80% of all engine wear occurs during cold startup. That's why it's better to run the thinnest oil you can find when cold that still maintains the 30-weight characteristics when hot (operating temperature). That's 0w-30 for our cars, which isn't that readily available. However I found a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-30 at Wal-Mart for only about $24 I plan to run it for at least 5K miles. It's been 1500 miles since my last fill and the oil still looks clean on the dipstick and is still at the full mark.
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
I really wish people would stop spreading all these false rumors about synthetic oils and being too thin or bad to switch between synthetic and non...spinning an internal engine bearing because the oil is too thin...wtf???
Synthetic oils are superior than non-synthetic oils in pretty much every respect possible...there's a good reason why all the good car manufacturers are spec'ing synthetic oils for all their cars nowadays.
IMO, there's no reason why you should cheap out on oil. People drop money on brand name bling for their car and don't want to pay more than $4/qt for oil?
I would run full synthetic if I were you. I've been running different synthetic oils in both my engines ever since I have owned my car...Castrol Syntec 10w30 (I was a n00b back then...), Amsoil 0w30, Motul X-cess 5w40, Castrol Syntec 0w30, and now Motul X-Lite 0w30...all for intervals between 6k and 7.5k miles, all with very good oil analysis results. I'm currently at about 9400 miles on my current Motul X-lite 0w30 and will be getting an analysis on that very soon (I'll probably post the numbers up somewhere here...).
Also, oil color does not directly correlate to how worn out it is or how well it's lubricating...so that can't be used as a determinant of how well the oil is doing. I whole-heartedly agree with Patrick with the suggestion of a 0w30. The 0w30 synthetic oils that are out there are very good. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec ("German Castrol," or GC) are both good examples of oils available off the shelf at chain stores. Online you can look for oils like Amsoil TSO 0w30 and Motul X-lite 0w30, but the latter is very expensive.
Synthetic oils are superior than non-synthetic oils in pretty much every respect possible...there's a good reason why all the good car manufacturers are spec'ing synthetic oils for all their cars nowadays.
IMO, there's no reason why you should cheap out on oil. People drop money on brand name bling for their car and don't want to pay more than $4/qt for oil?
I would run full synthetic if I were you. I've been running different synthetic oils in both my engines ever since I have owned my car...Castrol Syntec 10w30 (I was a n00b back then...), Amsoil 0w30, Motul X-cess 5w40, Castrol Syntec 0w30, and now Motul X-Lite 0w30...all for intervals between 6k and 7.5k miles, all with very good oil analysis results. I'm currently at about 9400 miles on my current Motul X-lite 0w30 and will be getting an analysis on that very soon (I'll probably post the numbers up somewhere here...).
Also, oil color does not directly correlate to how worn out it is or how well it's lubricating...so that can't be used as a determinant of how well the oil is doing. I whole-heartedly agree with Patrick with the suggestion of a 0w30. The 0w30 synthetic oils that are out there are very good. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec ("German Castrol," or GC) are both good examples of oils available off the shelf at chain stores. Online you can look for oils like Amsoil TSO 0w30 and Motul X-lite 0w30, but the latter is very expensive.
Last edited by KaBlookie; 07-23-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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#8
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Re: synthetic oil to regular engine oil
FYI, here are some recent prices for various brands of synthetic oil (5W30 and 10W30 except where indicated):
Single quarts of oil:
Mobil 1 $6.99 Autozone, $6.27 Wal-Mart
Castrol Syntec $6.99 Autozone (including the 0W30 from Germany), $6.27 Wal-Mart (which did not have 0W30)
Pennzoil Platinum $5.97 Wal-Mart
Royal Purple at Wal-Mart - if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it
5-quart jugs of oil:
Mobil 1 $26.00 Wal-Mart
Castrol Syntec $25.00 Wal-Mart
Pennzoil Platinum $23.00 Wal-Mart
Valvoline Synpower $22.50 Wal-Mart
Quaker State (Q) $18.00 Wal-Mart
An off brand (I forget the name, I assume it's their house brand) $17.77 Wal-Mart
Six-quart cases of Mobil 1 at Costco and Sam's Club are usually more expensive, per quart, than the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart, although they may be less expensive than single quarts there. IIRC they are currently around $34.xx.
Sometimes the oil manufacturers offer promotions that are worth considering. Quaker State recently offered a $10 rebate on five quarts of synthetic (Q), which means it was only $8 for five quarts.
Single quarts of oil:
Mobil 1 $6.99 Autozone, $6.27 Wal-Mart
Castrol Syntec $6.99 Autozone (including the 0W30 from Germany), $6.27 Wal-Mart (which did not have 0W30)
Pennzoil Platinum $5.97 Wal-Mart
Royal Purple at Wal-Mart - if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it
5-quart jugs of oil:
Mobil 1 $26.00 Wal-Mart
Castrol Syntec $25.00 Wal-Mart
Pennzoil Platinum $23.00 Wal-Mart
Valvoline Synpower $22.50 Wal-Mart
Quaker State (Q) $18.00 Wal-Mart
An off brand (I forget the name, I assume it's their house brand) $17.77 Wal-Mart
Six-quart cases of Mobil 1 at Costco and Sam's Club are usually more expensive, per quart, than the 5-quart jugs at Wal-Mart, although they may be less expensive than single quarts there. IIRC they are currently around $34.xx.
Sometimes the oil manufacturers offer promotions that are worth considering. Quaker State recently offered a $10 rebate on five quarts of synthetic (Q), which means it was only $8 for five quarts.
Last edited by nsxtasy; 07-27-2009 at 09:40 AM.
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