..::91TEG-G2::..

someone told me at pep boys that if u have a high mileage car/truck/whatever (125000exactly for mine) that using synthetic oil isnt a good idea.. not sure why he said it, maybe because its thinner/thicker or something.. dont member exactly..

but is this true or no?

..::91TEG-G2::..

bump for the night

Ti3d in

Bull plop! Actually I don't have a definitive answer, but I, and many others run synthetic oil. The thought of it hurting my hurting my motor never every came in to my head if that tells you something.

Smeeg Heed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone told me at pep boys that if u have a high mileage car/truck/whatever (125000exactly for mine) that using synthetic oil isnt a good idea.. not sure why he said it, maybe because its thinner/thicker or something.. dont member exactly..

but is this true or no?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you haven't been using synthetic for the current life of the vehicle then it could be a problem. The reason being that there may have been erosion on the cylinder walls or piston rings, but sediment from carbon deposits filled in the holes so the engine still runs fine.

Synthetic oil will break down these deposits, so if your engine is a bit worn, it could start burning oil after this. In this case the deposits are actually helping you.

OC 335i

Depends on the car and condition of the motor but to make a general statement like that is absurd. I guess that's what happens at Pep Boys.

PIC Performance

I'd like to know also... my b18c1 has nearly 100k miles on it and I've been using (and burning quite a bit of) mobil 1. All other possibilities aside, I've been told that it could be due to the fact that because synthetic is thinner, its blowing-by the ring seals in my higher mileage motor.

m R g S r

That would suck, have someone saying "my engine went after an oil change"

..::91TEG-G2::..

bro.. M1 just sucks ***.. i was reading a forum in the ITR section about motor oil.. and they said that M1 was rated the hightest in burning oil over any other selection.. if u want, i can post the link.. or just go into the itr section and it should be on the first page.. something about my car is buring oil.. help/why?

PIC Performance

noooo! Really?
I've only heard good things about Mobil 1, people swear by it. And they have like 6 quarts at Sam's Club for $12 or something lol.

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ..::91TEG-G2::.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bro.. M1 just sucks ***.. i was reading a forum in the ITR section about motor oil.. and they said that M1 was rated the hightest in burning oil over any other selection.. if u want, i can post the link.. or just go into the itr section and it should be on the first page.. something about my car is buring oil.. help/why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't suck ***, I run their 15w50 and I love it...

xplanetearth420x

dude thats all i run is moble1 i love it thinking about trying royle purple though

dannylDAsport

some ppl run it fine, other ppl have problems with it. Its just what are your expectations.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NS98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you haven't been using synthetic for the current life of the vehicle then it could be a problem. The reason being that there may have been erosion on the cylinder walls or piston rings, but sediment from carbon deposits filled in the holes so the engine still runs fine.

Synthetic oil will break down these deposits, so if your engine is a bit worn, it could start burning oil after this. In this case the deposits are actually helping you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like ns98gsr said, if u ran reg oil before, your engine might start leaking after u put synthetic cuz it cleans out all the old deposits na doil might seep through.

IntEGNYC

so the same arguement could be said about Seafoam and using it in a high mileage engine....

arent the sediments also keeping compression high?

Rory Breaker

In terms of carbon deposits on the pistons, yes, thats how I understood it.

Now with oil, someone pointed out above that it may not be good for higher mileage engines due to gunk from the fossil oil that has worked its way into cracks in seals. The high level of detergents in Synthetic Oil can break down that residue and "reopen" cracks in seals, causing leaks...hes right on. Thats why its not recommended for high mileage motors to make the switch.

If youre high mileage, just stick with what you have IMO.

About Mobil1, Ive found that the 5w30 burns like crazy, and the 10w30 is decent but still gets eaten. It varies from motor to motor, person to person, condition to condition. VTEC motors typically eat a decent amount of oil...I personally wouldnt run M1 5w30 again after the experience I had, but some people swear by it. I run Castrol Syntec 5w30 now and it seems to be about the same as M1 10w30 in terms of burning.

..::91TEG-G2::..

heres the link, bout when they talk about what oils good and whats not.. i was suprised on alot of it, but here so u guys can read it.. for ur moble 1 users

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841959

and about my topic: so its not good to use synthetic oil because it breaks down the stuff that might be keeping my engine running "good" right? i've been using GTX castrol oil.. good or no?

what oil and weight do u guys thing i should use on my car that just hit 125000mi's

frenchy

i runmobil1 15-50 also thinking i wouldnt burn as much, but know it has become apparent that repairs are in order , and 15-50 is really too thick for honda motors, and at five bucks a quart, im spending almost as much as i am on gas , but i switched at about 80k, and i heard castrol left some kind of wax deposits in your motor, but that could be total bullshit
bump for a good non-syn oil

Curtis2kul

In my shop class we talked about oil one day. My teacher sais that you should use on quart of synthetic and the rest rugular(something about how sythetic and regular have different types of molecules) Also if your going to use regular DO NOT USE OIL FROM TEXAS It has the the chemical parafin which has shown to cause major buildup inside the engine. almost all oils in u.s come from either texas or pennsylvania GO WITH PENNSYLVANIA OIL

G-bonic

mobil 1 is the best is like u drinkin coke&henessy .... the bomb ..!!!

Lance C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stock_LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mobil 1 is the best is like u drinkin coke&henessy .... the bomb ..!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you tried to be funny/clever but it didn't work....

W.O.P.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 300zGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you tried to be funny/clever but it didn't work.... </TD></TR></TABLE> ha ha my thoughts exactly. but nick is right, synthetic oil will break down conventional oil that has sealed up the cracks in the seals thus causing oil leaks and or burning. this is the reason you dont put synthetic oil in a brand new car.. it needs that sealant to help the valve seals seat right. i have been using mobil1 since i got my car when it had 25k i will not go back to conventional oil, so when i reach the 100k's i can still use synthetic oil. and just a little fyi mobil1 isnt crap it just doesnt live up to the hype. i now run amsoil. it destroye mobil1 in all tests

Lance C

my moms E-class came stock with synthetic and they told us not to change it until 10,000.... care to explain how why both of these thing occured?

MOBIL 1 synthetic - STOCK (i was just informed that synthetic was bad for new car in the post above)
oil change at 10k?

..::91TEG-G2::..

bump

oMek

my 1995 gsr has 154k on it. when i got it @146k it burned reg dyno oil about 1qt every 1k miles. then i switched to mobil1 10w-30 and it burned like 5qts in 2.5k so i switched to castrol syntec 0w-30 (the 1 from germany) and i dont burn up any at all now.

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frenchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15-50 is really too thick for honda motors, and at five bucks a quart, im spending almost as much as i am on gas , </TD></TR></TABLE>

15w50 is not too thick if you're boosted, its actually pretty ideal, I haven't burned a drop since switching not to mention that everything seems to run smoother overall.

frenchy

i guess if your boosted, but i was under the impression it was too thick to get all the nooks and crannies, the only reason i ran it was to quit burning oil, and i didnt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 300zGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my moms E-class came stock with synthetic and they told us not to change it until 10,000.... care to explain how why both of these thing occured?

MOBIL 1 synthetic - STOCK (i was just informed that synthetic was bad for new car in the post above)
oil change at 10k?</TD></TR></TABLE>everyone has heard something different about syn oil - bottom line is the detergents in it will break **** down in your engine, good or bad
as for the other question, maybe you should post in the e-class forum, so we can continue talking about integras