GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

When I turn on the ignition I hear a strange whirring noise that sounds like a fuel pump priming, except that it's coming from the engine bay on what sounds like the passenger side. The noise is somewhat loud -- I can easily hear it over the engine -- and happens after the ignition is on, for about 5-10 sec. and occassionally while driving (particularly after a sharp bump). Any idea what it is, or whether it's normal? It's been doing it a looooong time, but over the years it lasts longer and longer when it starts.

I was told once it was the fuel pump priming, but it's definitely coming from the engine bay and not the back seat. With the hood up the noise is difficult to pinpoint.

all-mtr-teg

ABS pump

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Does the noise indicate that the pump is failing?

all-mtr-teg

Normal for it to prime on startup, take 4-6 seconds. The fact that it's actuating upon hitting a bump indicates possible leak. Check the fluid level, and for leaks around the pump, most likely the modulator is leaking. It's a pretty common failure on accords.

A good read for more info
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...TopicID=246947

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link. I checked this afternoon and while I couldn't see the fluid line in the reservoir, the reservoir shone brake-fluid yellow when I cast a light through it. I think the fluid is just at the fill line where the plastic lip of the reservoir makes it impossible to see. I also timed the pump and this time it took only 4 sec. (although I know it's taken longer). I'll just keep my eye on it but I think I'm OK for now. I'm glad -- that seems like it can get expensive to fix.

derilict

Gagnar, I'm having the same issue on my '95, not tryin to hijack your thread, but it made more sense than starting a new one.

Mine runs for more like 30+ seconds. I've checked the level, it's full.

My question: is there any way to bleed the ABS pump (or something along those lines). Or am I screwed? This is a stock daily driver, not trying to get in to replacing/swapping with an non-ABS RS.

Also, the ABS light comes on once the car starts rolling--and the ABS does NOT work.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

There's a bleeder nipple by the pump but I don't know how you are supposed to pressurize it to bleed it. I'll check my book and get back to you this afternoon unless someone beats me to the punch.

I think based on my recent research that pump over-run can occur even if the system isn't leaking externally.

derilict

Yeah it sounds like they can run (going bad, or needing bleeding) even if not leaking.

Any update on bleeding procedure for it?

lunalink

pretty much the same story with my '97 ls ( auto ) daily.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

It's only about 0 deg. here and my garage door has frozen shut. I won't be able to get in and get my Helms for a few days.

derilict

Holy crap that's ballz cold. Same story here, no worries. It's too damn cold for me to work on it anyways.

grjr

If your ABS light isn't turning on then you guys are fine. The computer will turn the ABS light warning light on if it figures out that the system is not being pressurized as it should. The pump will pressurize the system when you first start the car and it can take some time for it to finish. Even while driving around town the pump will come on again to pressurize the system if need be, usually after moderate to heavy braking.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

I've got it. It looks like you need to completely drain the reservoir before you can bleed the modulator unit itself. The first directions are for reservoir draining -- the next are for bleeding:

Draining --

The bleeder is on the 'modulator unit' right by the reservoir (pointing up). Remove the cap and put on a hose, as usual, and run it into a collector. The pressure already in the reservoir should begin the bleeding procedure.

After it's bled off the existing pressure, tighten the bleeder and start the car.

Let the car idle 1 min. then stop the engine.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir (it should have dropped below MAX).

Repeat the draining steps (make sure the engine is off during draining) until the reservoir is empty.

Now the manual says to fill the reservoir and drain it two more times. I'm not sure if you need to do that since you're also going to be bleeding the modulator:

Bleeding the modulator --

Fill the reservoir to MAX with fresh brake fluid

Loosen the bleeder then start the engine to activate the pump motor (perhaps it's best to start first, then loosen?).

Tighten the bleeder when fluid starts to flow out.

Stop the engine after the pump motor stops.

If the ABS light comes on and the pump motor stops, restart the engine and rebleed one more time (loosen the bleeder with the engine on and tighten when fluid comes out). I would think it's important not to let the reservoir empty at this point.

If that doesn't solve your problem, there's a continuity test you can do on the regulator. I'm sorry these instructions aren't clearer -- the protocol isn't super clear in the Helms. Good luck.