bombjester

Where and what brand clutch kit should I get? I'm looking for something that is not that costly but good as well.

My car wont into gear and I hope a new clutch kit will solve this. If there are alternatives or other suggestions please contribute.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

My vote is for Exedy OEM or Stg 1 from Gripforce.

bombjester

what about that f1 racing stage clutch kits. The 2nd stage is about the same price and will it run better?

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

I don't have any experience with F1, and when I was clutch shopping years ago they either weren't on the market or were never talked about. How do the prices compare to Exedy?

95 integra

iTrader: (2)

Can't go wrong with Exedy. I've had a F1 in a car I bought before (H22 though) and it was actually an ok clutch. Probably wouldnt buy it myself but then again, I pretty much stick to ACTs unless its a dual disc.

flatlineeee

ACT and Exedy are very reliable.

bombjester

The exedy oe is $110 according to gripforce. The f1 stage 1 is $96, and stage 2 is $125.


Is the stage 2 better for like "racing" or changing gears at high rpms or something. i dont know the difference lol (thanks for the imput btw)

TheAsian

ACT Has my vote the whole way, Im on my second clutch from them, and I love them, great feel and engagement point.

Ive used exedy and i just prefer the feel of act

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

As you increase in 'stages' you get more grip. That will let the clutch transfer more torque, and basically means you can run more torque out of the engine without it slipping. Really high power engines need strong clutches, or they'll be able to spin the clutch even when it's fully engaged. The extra gripping power comes with three major tradeoffs:

1) increased wear
2) increased pedal stiffness
3) rougher take-up

Generally speaking, the 'best' thing is to get the softest clutch that will be able to handle the torque your engine generates. The exception is that OEM replacement clutches for these cars actually tend to be uncomfortably soft, so some knowledgeable people will get stage 1 clutches rather than OEM replacement, even though the OEM replacement clutches have more than enough gripping power.

Unless your car is really built or has a large turbo, either OEM or stage 1 will be more than adequate. If a soft pedal sounds good to you, get OEM, but if you want a stiffer, closer to stock feel, consider stage 1.

Side note: for some reason, getting strong clutches has always been a popular mod even for people with mild or stock builds. I don't know why, but stage 3 and puck-style clutches are very attractive to a certain type of enthusiast. If you like the sound of a racier clutch, there's nothing wrong with going that route, but it's not at all necessary.

bombjester

Ok i think im probably going to get the exedy from gripforce. Where do you guys get the ACT ones?

Lol my car just has a cold air no need for upper stages. too expensive too

racebum

you're actually missing the worst part of the stage 2-3-4 clutches. it's not just the cost, they seriously suck donkey ***** backwards to drive on the street. basically on/off switches, you can't really feather them out.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

^^^ LOL, that's what I was getting at here:

... but saying they 'suck donkey ***** backwards' is more descriptive and probably more accurate.

bombjester

lol the clutch kit will solve my problem though right? just want to make sure before i spend $$$

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

It's possible, although there are some things you should check first. How is the level on the clutch fluid? If you're at a stop with the engine off can you go into gears? How about with the engine on -- are there any gears you can go into?

bombjester

it goes into all gears fine when engine is off, but when engine is on it wont go into gear. I tried putting it into third and started it and it just stalled and sounded like something broke (maybe the spring). I dont know how to check the fluid but ill look it up. I'm pretty sure the clutch still has pressure when i press down on it though. (before the clutch actually broke, like a couple minutes before, when the car was in gear with the engine on it was made a nasty whinning noise.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

See my sig. (pg. 1) for instructions on a clutch MC install, which has instructions on checking the level and bleeding. It's worth a look but it sounds like it's not your problem.

bombjester

just he fluid part right

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

My writeup has a picture of the reservoir where the fluid is, and bleeding instructions (last few steps). Otherwise it doesn't really apply to you. My guess is your clutch is bad but it's just a guess.

Lortt

When you try putting it in gear when its running does it sound like its grinding

bombjester

it wont even go in gear when engine is on. If i start it when its in gear, it stalls.. tha was in third gear though

I have to check if i need the slave too

OH_1fstgsr

iTrader: (2)

I had an ACT HDSS clutch. I blew out 3 of the 6 springs after 50,000 miles. The other 3 spring looked hardly used. I would have to say a very questionable design or poor quality.
I am now running an Action Clutch. So far so good. The clutch pedal is even easier than the ACT.

ALLMOTOR18

ACT gets my vote.. Get the full face sprung hub with HD pressure plate... Its good for 210 whp and drives almost like stock, with the exception of the added pedal pressure.. Mine lasted for 70k miles with alot of abuse... When I took it off to swap the trans, the hub was still over 65% left..