Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread
11-19-2003, 06:39 AM
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Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread
Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Info:
Made by skunk 2 in 2000? (somebody clarify)
Designed to be replica for stock ITR single-stage intake manifold
Runners/Plenum are slightly larger and stock ITR Intake Manifold (TB inlet = 64mm)
CARB Legal for the Cali Heads
Extra Parts Needed:
TB Gasket + Gasket Maker
IM Gasket (OEM or Hondata)
Vacuum Hoses (3/8 and 5/16)
Vacuum Cap (or anything to cap off extra spouts on manifold) OR Brass T to route extra coolant spout to existing coolant line
Civic SI fuel line (optional provides more slack than stock GSR)
-for running EVAP to IM
3/8 Vacum Line
Vacum Line T
-for not using GSR throttle cable/stand
Non-GSR TB Pulley and Spring (d16, 2nd Gen b16, h23)
ITR Throttle Cable
ITR Throttle Cable Bracket
-for using aftermarket intake
ITR/LS spec intake OR stock ITR stock intake arm
Install Tips:
-Use a breaker bar on the 2 bottom bolts holding down stock intake manifold
-Label all the sensors you are unplugging
-Have a bucket ready for some coolant spill
-Use vice grips to transfer studs from stock manifold to the new manifold or get bolts with the same thread size
-Be careful not to break any seals (IAC valve, Injector o-rings)
-Take old IM gasket COMPLETELY off, use liquid gasket remover and a razor blade
-Clean IACV valve w/ carb cleaner while it's off the IM
-Stock GSR intake arm fits manifold, but not well, GSR CAI fits, but not well
-If you don't want to tee the line for EVAP, run it outside/under the car away from heat and driver/passenger (sorry tree huggers)
-Wires/Connectors for IACV/EVAP may not be long enough, use a razor blade and cut back some of tape holding them together to separate them further
-If you use the stock GSR strut bar, turn it around to clear the manifold
-Play with ITR TB bracket placement to get proper slack on TB cable
Performance Gain:
Skunk 2 advertised gains on GSR = 6 -12hp on an NA GSR
Real life gains - post your dynos!
Misc:
*Yes, by slapping on a Skunk manifold on a stock GSR you will lose low end/some midrange, but gain alot of top end power
*The low end/midrange could be made up if you tune your car with chipped p28/VAFC/FPR or with Hondata
*Although it is a quality product, in some cases the manifold runners do not line up perfectly with stock p72 cylinder head intake ports
*Porting out a Skunk manifold wil give more power
*Best bang for the buck TB setup would be a ported stock GSR TB to 64mm (~$100 dollars at most places)
Little extra info by Rodrez:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Skunk2 manifold is a great way to grab some top end power on a GSR. If you're planning to have it ported, one thing you may want to have the porter work on, is it's direction. When Skunk designed that inake mani, they basically took a TypeR manifold and changed the flange to bolt up to a GSR. But GSR heads have a slightly different flow path compared to B16 heads, it's angled downward somewhat, and the Skunk2 intake mani doesn't take this into consideration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See anything wrong? am i missing something? post it and i'll add it
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 11:37 AM 1/24/2004
Made by skunk 2 in 2000? (somebody clarify)
Designed to be replica for stock ITR single-stage intake manifold
Runners/Plenum are slightly larger and stock ITR Intake Manifold (TB inlet = 64mm)
CARB Legal for the Cali Heads
Extra Parts Needed:
TB Gasket + Gasket Maker
IM Gasket (OEM or Hondata)
Vacuum Hoses (3/8 and 5/16)
Vacuum Cap (or anything to cap off extra spouts on manifold) OR Brass T to route extra coolant spout to existing coolant line
Civic SI fuel line (optional provides more slack than stock GSR)
-for running EVAP to IM
3/8 Vacum Line
Vacum Line T
-for not using GSR throttle cable/stand
Non-GSR TB Pulley and Spring (d16, 2nd Gen b16, h23)
ITR Throttle Cable
ITR Throttle Cable Bracket
-for using aftermarket intake
ITR/LS spec intake OR stock ITR stock intake arm
Install Tips:
-Use a breaker bar on the 2 bottom bolts holding down stock intake manifold
-Label all the sensors you are unplugging
-Have a bucket ready for some coolant spill
-Use vice grips to transfer studs from stock manifold to the new manifold or get bolts with the same thread size
-Be careful not to break any seals (IAC valve, Injector o-rings)
-Take old IM gasket COMPLETELY off, use liquid gasket remover and a razor blade
-Clean IACV valve w/ carb cleaner while it's off the IM
-Stock GSR intake arm fits manifold, but not well, GSR CAI fits, but not well
-If you don't want to tee the line for EVAP, run it outside/under the car away from heat and driver/passenger (sorry tree huggers)
-Wires/Connectors for IACV/EVAP may not be long enough, use a razor blade and cut back some of tape holding them together to separate them further
-If you use the stock GSR strut bar, turn it around to clear the manifold
-Play with ITR TB bracket placement to get proper slack on TB cable
Performance Gain:
Skunk 2 advertised gains on GSR = 6 -12hp on an NA GSR
Real life gains - post your dynos!
Misc:
*Yes, by slapping on a Skunk manifold on a stock GSR you will lose low end/some midrange, but gain alot of top end power
*The low end/midrange could be made up if you tune your car with chipped p28/VAFC/FPR or with Hondata
*Although it is a quality product, in some cases the manifold runners do not line up perfectly with stock p72 cylinder head intake ports
*Porting out a Skunk manifold wil give more power
*Best bang for the buck TB setup would be a ported stock GSR TB to 64mm (~$100 dollars at most places)
Little extra info by Rodrez:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Skunk2 manifold is a great way to grab some top end power on a GSR. If you're planning to have it ported, one thing you may want to have the porter work on, is it's direction. When Skunk designed that inake mani, they basically took a TypeR manifold and changed the flange to bolt up to a GSR. But GSR heads have a slightly different flow path compared to B16 heads, it's angled downward somewhat, and the Skunk2 intake mani doesn't take this into consideration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
See anything wrong? am i missing something? post it and i'll add it
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 11:37 AM 1/24/2004
11-19-2003, 06:40 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
Pictures
Install Webpages
- Install it JHP style http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/tech/sk2manifold/ (always down)
-To remove stock IM http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/jrsc/jrsc.php (do everyhting except remove the radiator hoses
- Using GSR TB bracket/Cable https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=234963
- Another archived install thread w/ reveiws https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=451235 no pics!
After Install Problems/Fix-its:
1. Problem: My idle is higher, or keeps rising, or is bouncing
Fix-it: Check all vacuum lines and make sure they are properly routed, make sure you have no leaks on on the TB gasket and IM gasket (did you remove all the old IM gasket?
) Put your hand around the TB gasket and feel for any suction, feel for air escaping around IM gasket, also listen to hear if you hear air being sucked in/escaping (dont touch the IM gasket area if your car is hot)
2. Problem: My idle is too low
Fix-it: No bigger plenum may cause idle to be slightly lower, quick fix is to use the Idle Adjustment Screw to raise it up a bit
3. Problem: Throwing ECU code 10 IACV
Fix-it: Clean IACV (you should have done this already)
4. Problem: Fuel is leaking/spraying from the fuel rail
Fix-it: check injector O-rings and replace as necessary
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 9:09 PM 11/19/2003
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 9:14 PM 11/19/2003
Install Webpages
- Install it JHP style http://www.jdmhondaparts.com/tech/sk2manifold/ (always down)
-To remove stock IM http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/jrsc/jrsc.php (do everyhting except remove the radiator hoses
- Using GSR TB bracket/Cable https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=234963
- Another archived install thread w/ reveiws https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=451235 no pics!
After Install Problems/Fix-its:
1. Problem: My idle is higher, or keeps rising, or is bouncing
Fix-it: Check all vacuum lines and make sure they are properly routed, make sure you have no leaks on on the TB gasket and IM gasket (did you remove all the old IM gasket?
) Put your hand around the TB gasket and feel for any suction, feel for air escaping around IM gasket, also listen to hear if you hear air being sucked in/escaping (dont touch the IM gasket area if your car is hot)2. Problem: My idle is too low
Fix-it: No bigger plenum may cause idle to be slightly lower, quick fix is to use the Idle Adjustment Screw to raise it up a bit
3. Problem: Throwing ECU code 10 IACV
Fix-it: Clean IACV (you should have done this already)
4. Problem: Fuel is leaking/spraying from the fuel rail
Fix-it: check injector O-rings and replace as necessary
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 9:09 PM 11/19/2003
Modified by Bolivianstrtwpn at 9:14 PM 11/19/2003
11-19-2003, 06:55 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
I'll add some info.
Longer Intake Manifold Studs
Use M8x1.25x50mm. Use loctite and double-nut the studs to install the studs. A 50mm stud will allow you to use the Skunk2 manifold in conjunction with the Hondata/AN-R intake manifold gasket and nylon/plastic washers, a pair of optional OEM Honda P72 intake manifold gaskets, and still have room for the flange nut to fit with a couple threads to spare.
Just the 50mm studs.
With AN-R and OEM gaskets.
Fully assembled.
TPS
If you run into the need to swap TPS's (for whatever reason), you'll have to remove the one from your old TB.
The TPS is held on by a pair of (intentionally) broken bolts and washers. Use a dremel and a cut-off disc. Cut a slot into the middle part where you can see the end of the bolt threading. Don't cut too much, just deep enough to get a medium-sized standard screwdriver tip into it. Unscrew the bolt - righty tighty, left loosy (standard thread direction).
Transplant the TPS to the new TB. You'll need new bolts, lock washers, and washers. The bolts/screws are M5x.8x16mm. I tried 20mm and they were too long, even with the lock washer and washer in place. 16mm is the next size down for me at the hardware store. Hopefully they won't be too short and strip the threads out. Otherwise, I'll have to cut down one of the 20mm bolts.
I'll also show you guys the best way to test the TPS voltage after the manifold is installed, as well as the hardware needed for proper mounting of the fuel rail.
Fuel Rail
Go to the hardware store and get (3) M6x1.00x31mm studs. Thread them in and secure with loctite. Reuse the three nuts. Works with stock fuel rail and AEM fuel rail.
You can't simply reuse the (3) studs on the GS-R manifold. The two on the ends aren't threaded down far enough, so the nuts bottom out before they even touch the fuel rail.
This is the best shot I have. I'll take another one later on...I'm just too lazy now to take it all apart again.
EVAP purge solenoid placement on OBD-1 GS-R's
On OBD-1 GS-r's, the EVAP purge solenoid is mounted on the #4 runner of the P72 manifold. The Skunk2 manifold doesn't have a place to mount the purge solenoid on the manifold.
If you're using a P72 throttle body and using an ITR throttle cable, you can fabricate a bracket to mount the solenoid off of the throttle cable stay. This position will allow the wiring harness to reach it without lengthening the wires or vacuum hose from the EVAP charcoal canister and provides a sturdy and secure mount.
Otherwise, you'll have to relocate it to the firewall, let it hang, or secure it to the manifold somehow.
Modified by IN VTEC at 2:56 AM 11/20/2003
Longer Intake Manifold Studs
Use M8x1.25x50mm. Use loctite and double-nut the studs to install the studs. A 50mm stud will allow you to use the Skunk2 manifold in conjunction with the Hondata/AN-R intake manifold gasket and nylon/plastic washers, a pair of optional OEM Honda P72 intake manifold gaskets, and still have room for the flange nut to fit with a couple threads to spare.
Just the 50mm studs.
With AN-R and OEM gaskets.
Fully assembled.
TPS
If you run into the need to swap TPS's (for whatever reason), you'll have to remove the one from your old TB.
The TPS is held on by a pair of (intentionally) broken bolts and washers. Use a dremel and a cut-off disc. Cut a slot into the middle part where you can see the end of the bolt threading. Don't cut too much, just deep enough to get a medium-sized standard screwdriver tip into it. Unscrew the bolt - righty tighty, left loosy (standard thread direction).
Transplant the TPS to the new TB. You'll need new bolts, lock washers, and washers. The bolts/screws are M5x.8x16mm. I tried 20mm and they were too long, even with the lock washer and washer in place. 16mm is the next size down for me at the hardware store. Hopefully they won't be too short and strip the threads out. Otherwise, I'll have to cut down one of the 20mm bolts.
I'll also show you guys the best way to test the TPS voltage after the manifold is installed, as well as the hardware needed for proper mounting of the fuel rail.
Fuel Rail
Go to the hardware store and get (3) M6x1.00x31mm studs. Thread them in and secure with loctite. Reuse the three nuts. Works with stock fuel rail and AEM fuel rail.
You can't simply reuse the (3) studs on the GS-R manifold. The two on the ends aren't threaded down far enough, so the nuts bottom out before they even touch the fuel rail.
This is the best shot I have. I'll take another one later on...I'm just too lazy now to take it all apart again.
EVAP purge solenoid placement on OBD-1 GS-R's
On OBD-1 GS-r's, the EVAP purge solenoid is mounted on the #4 runner of the P72 manifold. The Skunk2 manifold doesn't have a place to mount the purge solenoid on the manifold.
If you're using a P72 throttle body and using an ITR throttle cable, you can fabricate a bracket to mount the solenoid off of the throttle cable stay. This position will allow the wiring harness to reach it without lengthening the wires or vacuum hose from the EVAP charcoal canister and provides a sturdy and secure mount.
Otherwise, you'll have to relocate it to the firewall, let it hang, or secure it to the manifold somehow.
Modified by IN VTEC at 2:56 AM 11/20/2003
11-19-2003, 07:13 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pictures
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That tower brace isn't reversed, that's how it's supposed to go
I sure wish that install page still worked, I'd like to save it to my computer for future reference.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That tower brace isn't reversed, that's how it's supposed to go
I sure wish that install page still worked, I'd like to save it to my computer for future reference.
11-19-2003, 07:43 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
does anyone have the carb eo number then? and if can get a sticker for it. i never knew that it was carb legal.
Carlo
Carlo
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11-19-2003, 08:04 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That tower brace isn't reversed, that's how it's supposed to go </TD></TR></TABLE>
mine came that way! how is it supposed to go?
</TD></TR></TABLE>mine came that way! how is it supposed to go?
11-19-2003, 08:06 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (integraL)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
mine came that way! how is it supposed to go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The orientation shown in the above pic is the correct way.
mine came that way! how is it supposed to go?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The orientation shown in the above pic is the correct way.
11-19-2003, 08:35 AM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bolivianstrtwpn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, my stock GSR bar came on the car the other way!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good thread , you live near the mall right? I think I have seen your car at your house a couple of times..
Good thread , you live near the mall right? I think I have seen your car at your house a couple of times..
11-19-2003, 11:06 AM
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Re: (P1mpSlap)
i just installed one for a customer and i didnt use any caps. theres an extra coolant outlet on the passenger side of the manifold right by the fuel line. its for older obd1 cars that have it run to the throttle body. just by a brass t-fitting and route it into another coolant line. its not a good idea to put a cap on a coolant line that will have pressure going to it.
11-19-2003, 01:14 PM
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Re: (IN VTEC)
Skunk 2 manifold and a Hondata Gasket......
The only thing I do is clean up the end of the runner a bit to smothen it out, sometimes there a few nasty chunks in there.....nothing a little TLC cant take care of !!
Modified by TwoRedEGgs at 2:28 PM 11/19/2003
Modified by TwoRedEGgs at 2:29 PM 11/19/2003
The only thing I do is clean up the end of the runner a bit to smothen it out, sometimes there a few nasty chunks in there.....nothing a little TLC cant take care of !!
Modified by TwoRedEGgs at 2:28 PM 11/19/2003
Modified by TwoRedEGgs at 2:29 PM 11/19/2003
11-19-2003, 02:20 PM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (Bolivianstrtwpn)
looks good...
the extra coolant passage sometimes leaks if it's not sealed up properly, but it's great you guys mentioned it for the new/soon-to-be new owners of the skunk2 intake manifold.
great write up!
the extra coolant passage sometimes leaks if it's not sealed up properly, but it's great you guys mentioned it for the new/soon-to-be new owners of the skunk2 intake manifold.
great write up!
11-19-2003, 02:23 PM
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Re: Skunk 2 GSR Intake Manifold Official Thread (CivicSiR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good thread , you live near the mall right? I think I have seen your car at your house a couple of times.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
must have a different guy!
Good thread , you live near the mall right? I think I have seen your car at your house a couple of times..
</TD></TR></TABLE>must have a different guy!
11-19-2003, 02:27 PM
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does the hondata gasket stop the coolant going through the throttle body ?
does this effect the idol ?
im asking this because i have a skunk2 i'm going to fit but i couldn't get a standard gasket (because the gsr never came out over here in the u.k, mine an import) so i had to get a hondatd instead.
oh and i can't get hold of a ITR throttle cable either.
as you can see i need some advice so please help
does this effect the idol ?
im asking this because i have a skunk2 i'm going to fit but i couldn't get a standard gasket (because the gsr never came out over here in the u.k, mine an import) so i had to get a hondatd instead.
oh and i can't get hold of a ITR throttle cable either.
as you can see i need some advice so please help
11-19-2003, 02:32 PM
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Re: (fastfu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastfu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the hondata gasket stop the coolant going through the throttle body ?
does this effect the idol ?
im asking this because i have a skunk2 i'm going to fit but i couldn't get a standard gasket (because the gsr never came out over here in the u.k, mine an import) so i had to get a hondatd instead.
oh and i can't get hold of a ITR throttle cable either.
as you can see i need some advice so please help</TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't HAVE to use ITR throttle cable, it just makes it look cleaner and lets you use certain types of strut bars
if you get hondata RACE gasket then no coolant will flow through the spout, with a hondata STREET gasket (if they still sell them) coolant flows through the spout. I'm not going to get into how to install a race gasket because there have been threads coverig that already
does this effect the idol ?
im asking this because i have a skunk2 i'm going to fit but i couldn't get a standard gasket (because the gsr never came out over here in the u.k, mine an import) so i had to get a hondatd instead.
oh and i can't get hold of a ITR throttle cable either.
as you can see i need some advice so please help</TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't HAVE to use ITR throttle cable, it just makes it look cleaner and lets you use certain types of strut bars
if you get hondata RACE gasket then no coolant will flow through the spout, with a hondata STREET gasket (if they still sell them) coolant flows through the spout. I'm not going to get into how to install a race gasket because there have been threads coverig that already
11-19-2003, 02:49 PM
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Re: (Bolivianstrtwpn)
If you install that manifold with stock cams and ECU, Will VTEC still engage the same? I mean, since you no longer are utilizing the dual runner manifold, will it sound or feel different? 
11-19-2003, 03:10 PM
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11-19-2003, 04:46 PM
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Re: (maggsgsr)
Bolivianstrtwpn -- I hope you didn't decide to write this up after answering my 50+ install questions this week 
Good job man this really helps, now I can finish in peace with alot of rumors at rest LOL!
Good job man this really helps, now I can finish in peace with alot of rumors at rest LOL!
11-19-2003, 04:47 PM
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Re: (Dee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=234963 </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap that was a long time ago with a good write up!
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeap that was a long time ago with a good write up!