wunfstgsr

Hello I have 99 GSR with a B18C-5 swap, for the last few days when I start my car in the morning the tach is jumping around like crazy. Theres no effect on performance it's just a glitch in the signal. But when the motor gets to op temp the tach settles correct. I checked my thermo ground and the plugs inside the distributor look fine and not loose. Any idea what could be causing this issue? Thanks guys.

lostforawhile

probably the ignition module is going bad, they get temperature sensitive before they fail. Thats the most common reason, when the module starts to go the tach will get a dirty signal from the module

wunfstgsr

Thanks I'll look into it.

wunfstgsr

Well this morning i started it and it idled for a few seconds and then it just died and now it wont start anymore, it cranks but it doesnt fire. Could the ignition module have died?

fcm

Yes, I bet you have no spark.

As mentioned by lostforawhile an erratic tach is a pretty good sign the ICM is on its way out, if tach does not move at all when cranking to start, the ICM has failed.

Could have been worse, it could have failed at night, on a back road, 20 miles from anywhere, with no cell service and pissing rain. 94

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

I've been there... in the middle of no where in Alabama and I will never forget that night.

wunfstgsr

Yea the tach doesnt move at all when cranking. Im just glad it was in my driveway and on my day off work!

lol yea that must have sucked! this would of been a bad time for me if i was in this situation cause my phone just broke recently and its been raining haha

Guess ill have to order one cause i went to vato zone and i ask for a icm and this old guy shows me a part thats $470 lol im like no that has to be wrong a new dist is like less than $150 so i went to orielys and they were like $70-$160 so im just going to look around online anyone know the part # for the ICM all the ones im finding seem to be for obd1 i cant find anything for a obd2 but i read they should be the same and interchangable between even D and B series obd1-obd2.

CKnight90

Don't go cheap when you find out if its the Ignitor or the Coil. Buy a good quality part. I've had this issue in the past. Also check your Plug wires to make sure they're not cracked. Cracked/hairline crack will cause the Ignitor over heat/wear out faster. Speaking from Experience. GL!

wunfstgsr

Good point but i even tried a brand new cap rotor new NGK wires and new plugs but still wouldnt crank i had them already since i was getting ready to do a full tune up and maintenance on the motor.

Now as far as the ICM i found one on ebay for a $15 shipped with a lifetime warranty theres a few for around $40-75 but not sure what brand i can trust.

greatnightmare

I always get mine from junk yards. A lot of Hondas use the same icm and coil. I just take a picture on my phone of the numbers and of the mounting bolts and electrical connections and make sure i leave with the right one. Ive always bought an extra of each as well just in case they die on me. Its been 2 years though on the first set i got from junk yard and its still working fine. Cost like 60 bucks for 2 sets of each instead of 450 for one of each

wunfstgsr

Well the junk yard is like 2 hours away and also i wouldnt want to put a used part in its just my OCD, i just ordered one from ebay for $15 hope it last but the ad did say some kind of lifetime warranty so idk about that. I am going to apply some thermal compound on the ICM before i install it to help distribute the heat and give it some longevity.

lostforawhile

I've had terrible luck with aftermarket ones, the used Honda one is probably better then a new cheap one

wunfstgsr

I bet it is, owell $15 wont hurt much but on the side note my distributor is pretty old and worn and some of the screws inside are stripped and some tabs are boken, the wire harness is not torn but the loom is gone and its dirty and ugly i was thinking maybe just get a new one down the line if this distributor gives me more issues, wheres a good place to buy a refurbished distributor?

lostforawhile

probably a richporter

wunfstgsr

??

lostforawhile

they build OEM dizzys out of all new parts, no cores or used parts, I have one on the hatch, looks to be very high quality and well built, I researched the company before I got it, and they generally have positive reviews,I think they are made in Canada

wunfstgsr

Thanks

wunfstgsr

OK so I got a new ICM and installed it and its still the same it cranks but won't fire, the rpm needle don't jump when I crank it neither. i quit right ater the test start because it was getting late and its lightly raining and chilly outside. Could it possibly be the coil and not the ignition coil module (ICM) ?, Im thinking its the coil but ill have to do some testing with a multi meter when i have time which is never!

crazyhouse2011

good luck OP

lostforawhile

well the ICM provides the signal that triggers the coil and the tach uses the same switching ground to the coil, check your wring, connections etc

wunfstgsr

Thanks.

[QUOTE=lostforawhile;50136441]well the ICM provides the signal that triggers the coil and the tach uses the same switching ground to the coil, check your wring, connections etc[/

I'll check the wiring but it seemed fine when I took out the icm, I crimped the connections just in case they were loose!. But I'm thinking it most likely the coil.

lostforawhile

I wonder if these still have the inline resistor inside the coil for the tach circuit? the older cars have the power and ground into the coil, then an internal resistor between coil negative and the blue tach output wire

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked for any stored CEL codes? What ecu are you running?

Tach receives its pulse signal from the ICM on a 2a and the ecu on a 2b. Without spark, there would be no signal to send for the tach to work. Spark is generated @ the coil.

Test the coil... Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

lostforawhile

your spark is generated every time the ICM interrupts the ground signal to the coil, the field collapses in the primary, inducing a high voltage in the secondary,both your tach and the ECU read these negative pulses and calculate RPM, if the ICM is failing or has failed, the ECU and tach will get corrupted information about rpm, or think the engine isn't turning, do these still have a capacitor to stop radio interference? if it does, disconnect the capacitor and see if it starts, they will run without it, but if it's shorted to ground the car won't start or run

wunfstgsr

Well i ordered a coil the other day and it came in already today and so i installed it and whem i cranked the engine over it tried to start for a sec then it just kept cranking. So it has a new aftermarket ICM and coil and still wont fire. I didnt bother testing the coil since i used a new one and it still wont fire. Im going to test out the two coils soon.