mickey513

After seeing my 94gsr leak oil from the cam plug seal, I went to acura and bought th plug and followed the instructions on:

http://importnut.net/STRseal.htm

Well, the site is acurrate for most points excpet here:

http://importnut.net/swappics/strsealinstal.jpg

You can see from the picture that you can just take the cam plug off, but wrong, on the 94+gsr, the piece on top of the cam plug that holds it down is ONE PIECE that cannot be taken off. I freaked aftering noticing the different and read the website again........it said that the method applied to most B-series engine but I guess every engine is a little different.

Try plying it off but couldn't get it off, but luckily my father's freind is a mechanic and he came over and check it out. He said you didn't even have to take off the valve cover to do this. Just take off the 3 bolts from the thing that is to the left cam plug to loosen it, let it hang. Then use a flat head and a hammer. Put the flat head on the plug, use the hammer and give it a few good hits and it's off.

Took him less then a mins to get it off, would have taken him 5 mins max he told me. to do it from the beginning without having to take off the valve cover. Mechanic trick of the trade. He also told me it would take him less then 1 hour to change the timing belt and water pump on most Acuras and Hondas.


[Modified by mickey513, 5:17 AM 9/9/2002]

gsrteg

To install the STR cam seal you have to remove the valve cover to do it correctly. what are you talking about anyways man? what being one piece?

HeikDiesel

Its a little piece of metal that bolts to the block. When we tore my buddies motor down, I noticed it because I need to redo my cam seal also...not that big of a deal

HeikDiesel

But yes....you do need to take the valve cover off. Are you saying that you take the VTEC silinoid(excuse my spelling) off?

GZR4DR

The proper way to take it off is how they show it in the STR website link you put. Doing it by removing the vtec selanoid seems like a bad idea. Sure you can get it out, however your going to damage the seal putting it back in. I say do it the right way, which takes all of 10-15min, or don't do it at all.

HeikDiesel

Wurd

civicgsr

Um, hello....I wrote that STR cam seal install.

That engine is a '95 GSR motor. The valve cover has to come off, the VTEC oil rail has to come off and then that cap can come off.

I just read your post again. What that hell did you do to your engine? Every B-series motor is going to be exactly the same. The only difference is that the non-VTEC motors are not going to have VTEC oil rails.

Honestly man, I'd like to see what this mechanic did, In order to properly install that cam seal, you have to take the cap off like I did in the pic. Removing the VTEC Solenoid and then prying the plug out is such a horrible way to do it. My question to you: How did you get the new seal in? If you used the plastic one, it's possible to shove it in, but it would be impossible to push the aluminum STR seal in without removing the hardware as I depicted.

It looks like I'm going to have to take more pics to avoid any confusion.

-Alex


[Modified by civicgsr, 2:40 AM 10/21/2002]

ej1Pat

Thanks for the post. I was about to do mine on a b16a w/ vtec. And I didn't know if there was a difference between vtec and non vtec cam seals. Your post helped me figure it out. Thanks.

ej1Pat

Here is my b16 w/ a Password Jdm Cam seal.

civicgsr

I've been working on revamping my site and there is a new version of this cam seal replacement write-up. Check it out here: http://importnut.net/b-series-cam-seal-install/

95blackLS

Mine was leaking as well. This is what I did about it.
1. remover valve cover (< 5 mins)
2. remove the bolts for the aluminum retainer (< 2 mins)
3. use rubber mallet to remove aluminum retainer (2 mins)
4. remove seal without damaging it. (30 sec)
5. clean seals mating surface, head surface, and aluminum retainer surface (5 mins)
6. apply Right Stuff gasket maker all around the seal's mating surface. (1 min)
7. let sit for 2-3 mins
8. set seal in place, reinstall aluminum retainer, torque bolts (3 mins)
9. install valve cover, torque to spec (6 mins)
It's been perfect for over 10k miles and didn't cost anything special and took < 30 mins

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I use the revised plastic plug from Honda, and it has never leaked. It has an o-ring on it, and I coat it with Hondabond when installing.

The old rubber plug used on 94-95 Integras are the ones that were notorious for leaking. I've replaced the the plastic plug 2 or 3 times in 200K+ miles, and have never had a leak from that spot since I switched to it.

Oddly enough you have to look up a 96+ Integra to order that part. If you look up a 94 or 95 it still lists the rubber plug.

civicgsr

The revised plug is definitely a way to go for a budget fix.

-Alex

vladd

So has anyone successfully replaced the cam plug seal without removing the valve cover? I need to do it on mine, I'd really like to avoid messing with the valve cover.

civicgsr

If you want to use one of the aluminum/o-ringed aftermarket plugs, there is no way around removing the valve cover. There is a revised plug, which I can't seem to find a picture of, that will clip into place once you pry the original out. You would still need to remove the VTEC solenoid and if you do that, get a new gasket. These engines are pushing 20 years old.

-Alex

"edit" I found a picture.

vladd

I'll be using an OEM one. I replaced the VTEC solenoid gaskets a couple months back, should I replace them again when changing the cam plug?

civicgsr

No, you'll be fine to reusing it.