CKnight90

So I get faster responses in this section. I purchased a Civic with a B18c5 swap. Only after different parts on the bottom side are B18c pistons & rod bolts. Here's my OP https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...tions-3239036/

I guess Just replacing the Rings, Bearings, Gasket/Seals are the way to go? Any other things need to be done? Could I replace those with the head off and oil pan off? Or does the whole block have to come out along with the trans?

B_Swapped93

if you're even thinking of touching the pistons the head and trans are being removed, get a cheap engine stand the last thing you want is to loose something. And in most(or any) cases you don't just "swap the rings" you hone and measure your new ring gap or worst case overbore but then you get into a completely different realm. if you're go to all that trouble why stay with stock pistons and rods even? I assume this is a spare car you picked up.

CKnight90

Ugh! I've only done swaps before. Rebuilding sounds like a lot of work. I rather just stay stock. I'm fine with the power it's making now. Honing I'm going to leave it to a shop to do. Other then that anything else? Timing belt kit not to old from what I remember him telling me as he was doing the swap and head rebuild back in November. As for rings measured, something easy to do on my own? Or am I better off letting a shop do it?

Btw, Thx for the response.

Schister66

Why are you rebuilding in the first place?

Honing cylinders is fairly easy if you have a ball hone and a power drill, although a shop could do this for you. As for the rings, you may have to file them slightly, but for an 81mm rebuild, there are OEM rings for that application that don't require filing/fitting.

While its apart, its wise to replace water and oil pumps too. I'm not sure the mileage or condition of the engine you're rebuilding, but those are almost always included in a rebuild...another item to budget for.

CKnight90

Rebuilding due to bad ring. 7k-8k rpm I get smoke out back end, not just a little, a lot. It's fine ideling and driving, but crossing over and high rpm it does it. Timing belt kit few months old. I'll check the age of the oil pump also from previous owner. This car was his baby until he went to the dark side and got a WRX lol. Most likely will I have to bore it a little? I'm guessing... If bad ring = damaged cylinder wall which would mean boring would be needed? If so just over sized rings would be needed? What sight has those? Is there a guide about how to boring, oversized rings, & what to bore next to after 81m? I have a local shop that will bore & hot tank.

Engine specs:
B18c5
Head - Jun 3 cams, crower dual springs and retainers, skunk2 valves.
Block - all stock besides B18c pistons & arp rod bolts & arp head studs.


Anything else need replacing besides, timing belt kit, oil pump, gasket kit, & rings?

Schister66

You only need to overbore the cylinder if there are visible scratches (you can feel with a fingernail) or if the cylinder is out of round. With any luck, you can hone it and put it all back together. If you overbore, the next step up is 81.5mm and that requires new pistons and rings.

The extent of this rebuild depends on the condition everything is in - if you want to ensure that your new setup will be problem free, I would also plan to inspect and rebuild the bottom end (new bearings, thrust washers, etc). Maybe it will check out (plastigauge and visual inspection) and you can put it back together as-is. You won't know until its apart.

blackeg

yeah truth is you wont know until its all apart. just about anything you do internally to an engine is much much easier on the stand than in the engine bay. if you are positive its the rings and it really only smokes above 7000 rpm, then dont rev it up past that, build a spare block and just swap your head on.

honing with a flex hone and a drill isnt hard at all but it might be a very good idea to try it a few times on a bad block until you get a good feel for the up and down speed and what angle it creates. usually somewhere around 1 second for each time you bring the hone to the bottom of the cylinder and then back up is around a 30-45 degree angle but u need to get the hang of it. i have to admit it makes a pretty big ******* mess with the honing oil or whatever lube you use. i know its been done by lots with the crank still in and such but i wouldnt wanna do it like that

Schister66

I've never honed a block with the crank still in - I dont even want to think about having to clean that up....its much easier with a bare block on a stand, but beware, it is a messy process. I use a thick plastic engine cover bag to keep the drippings and spray (from the hone) from getting everywhere.

blackeg

this is how i always do it. they are all bare just with mains in and torqued no bearings... i put them in a giant rubbermaid container in the back yard. the hone is supposed to be moving when it enters and exits the cylinder, so its already in the process of tossing oil 360 degrees around. then its right off to the car wash to clean the block out with soap and water both from the pressurized hose and with a wet cloth and bucket. i get it home and grab the air hose and blow it out all dry. wd40 or oil then goes immediately on the cyl bore.

CKnight90

question about these hoses. Never seen spots where hoses go on my b16a2 or b18c1. They appear to come from my crank case? The bottle looks like liquid is in there? Assuming it's oil? Here's a video, thought a video would be better then pics since its in tight spaces. B18c5
Hoses from engine:

http://youtu.be/eUjr536M_T4

Also if I have to go to 81.5mm where's a good place to get piston & rings? Would they be .25 pistons & rings?

Schister66

81.5mm is +0.020"

Just a quick google search found these - I don't have any personal experience with Nippon, but have seen many builds using them

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161592194608?lpid=82&chn=ps

CKnight90

Still wondering what those hoses are in my YouTube Video.

That link took me to USDM B18c1 pistons. My block is a usdm b18c5. I thought b18c1 is usdm gsr and b18c5 is usdm Type R? What does everyone else think about that brand and pistons? If I go new pistons(if needed) then New rods too?

CKnight90

..Update

Here's what the Cylinder walls look like:
This a good site to order from if i do need over sized rings/pistons? JDM Integra DC2 Type R Piston Kit B18C5 11.1CR (.25mm Oversize)

As i stated I'm new to the whole rebuilding. Main Bearings and rode bearings are different right? where would i find main ones? Also do you think I should have my rod ends resized? Anyone have more info on that? Also Should I reuse my ARP Rod bolts? I guess if I forgot something to add to replace let me know please? Thanks!

CKnight90

TTT

Got engine stand & hoist. Pulling block tomorrow. Head is at shop being looked at and valves seated professionally.

SuperKartRacer

Mind as well just do a total rebuild of the motor. It's gonna cost you alot homie.

CKnight90

I have about $1500.00 For the rebuild so far. All the tools I can loan. So hopefully its enough or it'll take me a few months.

yeah. Plan to. Gaskets. Seals. Timing belt kit is still good, around 2k on it. Bearings. Going to polish crank. Plastigage. Basically all what needs to be done. Just need more info on what I'm doing if someone can read my posts so far. Greatly appreciated!

CKnight90

https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...3239036/page2/ <<<Other thread I have going. updated.