power loss on b18c1 gsr
09-14-2009, 12:26 PM
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power loss on b18c1 gsr
hey there, i bought this 99 civic with a b18c1 gsr swap, when i first got it,the car was running great but as time went by i noticed a loss of power. i changed the fast idle thermal valve and the idle air contol valve but its still tripping it even messed up my timing. i hjad that fixed and the mechanic told me that my tps was the problem, so i replaced the whole throttle body with a new map sensor an tps, unfortunately the power is still not back. can some one please help because i really like this car but if i cant gain the power without replacing the whole engine im going to have to sell it.
09-14-2009, 01:22 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
look man i aint gonne leave u hangin like these EXPERTS did to me ok have u done your full tune up to the car what ECU is the car running??
09-14-2009, 08:52 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
well it could just be the motor itself..the car probably have been abused before being sold to you. maybe it's just time for a rebuild.
09-14-2009, 11:33 PM
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09-15-2009, 11:41 AM
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09-15-2009, 11:53 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
do your compression test and go from there my gsr just did the same thing and i am currently rebuilding it completely AGAIN lol but it's very inexpensive to replace the rings and bearings if you know how to do it yourself
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09-15-2009, 12:17 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
the car is running on a 1998 acura integra gs-r ecu.....the guy that sold it to me owns his own shop he did the swap and everything but he says that it could my engine coolant temperature sensor......i dont know about replacing that, like i said i have spent too much money on this car already, but ima do a compression test to see what shape the engine's in, thanx for the tip
09-19-2009, 02:27 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
Google it.
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
09-19-2009, 10:09 PM
#12
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
Google it.
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
It will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
Checking Compression
Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge or electronically with an engine analyzer. The manual gauge method is the only one available to most do-it-yourselfers.
To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs (always refer to a manual for the exact compression specs for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures we quoted earlier).
If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve.
With electronic testing, a computer analyzer "estimates" compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed. The results correlate well with actual gauge readings and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
another thought. if the coolant temp sensor is fritz your car won't get out of warm up mode and vtec will not work. use the scan tool to see if your coolant temp is reading correctly and the o2 is going into closed loop.
09-19-2009, 11:10 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
Have you calibrated the tps after the throtle body swap or at least checked it and try reseting the ecu just unplug it for a few sec. then start it up and take it for a drive.
09-20-2009, 06:40 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
i maybe be also having a coolant temp issue?
my gsr swapped ek takes agoes to warm up
its real cold where i live
about 20 degress max in the uk
i have fluidyne rad half core
the fast i go the temp needle drops
when i sit in traffic etc. it goes back to middle temp
thinkin my thermostat maybe be stuck open?
my gsr swapped ek takes agoes to warm up
its real cold where i live
about 20 degress max in the uk
i have fluidyne rad half core
the fast i go the temp needle drops
when i sit in traffic etc. it goes back to middle temp
thinkin my thermostat maybe be stuck open?
09-20-2009, 01:00 PM
#15
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
you guys really could use one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-...3480332&sr=8-1
it does live data feed {like closed loop air/fuel, live coolant temp, rpm, mph etc} , obd1 and obd2 all for $107 shipped in the usa. as far as i know this is a closeout model that's being blown out dirt cheap. i bought one a few years back for more than twice this.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-...3480332&sr=8-1
it does live data feed {like closed loop air/fuel, live coolant temp, rpm, mph etc} , obd1 and obd2 all for $107 shipped in the usa. as far as i know this is a closeout model that's being blown out dirt cheap. i bought one a few years back for more than twice this.
09-21-2009, 05:36 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
i havent done the compression test yet, i already bought it on ebay but im waiting for it in the mail, so prolly in a week i should have it.
09-21-2009, 05:41 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
its got a new ect sensor, i changed the o2 sensor once but i dont know about the other one, ima do the compression test first and we'll see whats going on in the engine
09-21-2009, 05:45 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
i havent reseted the ecu at all, i think ima do that today when i get to the house. but hey wunfstgsr, how do you calibrate the tps? hit me back on this one cause as far as i knew it cant be calibrated......
09-21-2009, 09:15 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
hey two quick questions for anyone that knows; 1) on the iacv theres a hex screw, can i adjust that and if i can what should the screw be set at? 2) on the fitv the white plastic screw inside that regulates the air, should this be all the way tight or what is the setting on that?
09-21-2009, 11:10 AM
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09-21-2009, 01:29 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
a healthy gsr should be north of 180psi, remember to do this with the engine warm and with the throttle open. also don't forget to disconnect the distributor or you'll fry the coil.
another thought. if the coolant temp sensor is fritz your car won't get out of warm up mode and vtec will not work. use the scan tool to see if your coolant temp is reading correctly and the o2 is going into closed loop.
another thought. if the coolant temp sensor is fritz your car won't get out of warm up mode and vtec will not work. use the scan tool to see if your coolant temp is reading correctly and the o2 is going into closed loop.
09-22-2009, 05:20 AM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
so i got to checking my ecu last night cause i wanted to reset it and come to find out its a 99 civic si ecu p2t.......hmmmm...so since its running on a civic ecu will it make a difference if i change it to a gsr p72 ecu? and what parts would i have to change in order for it to function right?
09-23-2009, 09:25 PM
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Re: power loss on b18c1 gsr
so i got to checking my ecu last night cause i wanted to reset it and come to find out its a 99 civic si ecu p2t.......hmmmm...so since its running on a civic ecu will it make a difference if i change it to a gsr p72 ecu? and what parts would i have to change in order for it to function right?