racebum

zinc and phosphorus are the main anti wear ingredients.

back in the 90s it was common to see over 1000 parts per million in oil. then the epa came and all SM/SN 30w oil is now limited to 800ppm. what they found was better oil from our point of view shortened catalytic converter life

mobil sells what is very close to the late 90s version of mobile1 in the high mileage variant. it's api SL. the base stocks are slightly different but the HM oils are better at anti wear

oils also use viscosity modifiers in order to get that low cold flow number. the 10-30 just has less.

here's what modifiers are http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ndex-improvers

as the article points out, shearing is the main concern with heavily modified oils. this is why many race oils are straight 20w or straight 30w etc.

if you don't drive the car hard it has less of an impact but at least this gives you the idea of how these oil weights are came to

there's a good brief FAQ on the valvoline site about zinc and phosphorus

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

real race oils like redline or mobil1 racing have zinc/phos levels around 2000ppm or almost 3x what a standard street oil is and 2x what high mileage mobil1 is

in your case there may be no benefit to using 10-30 over 0-30 or 5-30, i would just buy the high mileage version for the reasons you have just read about. it's the same cost as regular mobil1 too. i think HM comes in 5-30 and 10-30

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

well I'll think about it.

Temp gauge sending unit is on the truck out for delivery.

sillyboi

PatrickGSR94, How did you burp the cooling system?

- Rad cap left open until the fan came on?

or

- using the bleeder valve next to the thermostat?

I had the same issue with my accord after an engine overhaul, the fan would come on but it's not helping. After checking with the manual, it says "with the car off, open the bleeder valve slightly, open rad cap, pour coolant until you see coolant coming out of the valve and tighten valve.

This way, the water or coolant pushes almost all the air out the bleeder valve. After I done this, it solved my overheating issue.

hope this helps.

m4xwellmurd3r

also the winter weight doesnt kick in till the stuff is near freezing temps. it means at 0f 10w-30 flows like 10 weight oil cooled to 0f compared to 30w oil at 0f.

so unless you live in a place that freezes, straight weight oils are fine.

im in az, I run 10w-30 unless I can find a decent straight weight oil. I ran vr1 straight 50w in my z car year round.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Yes but a car needs the oil to be a certain viscosity at operating temperature in order to get proper lubrication. When the temperature cools down (car sits) the oil is too thick for the engine to be lubricated properly. Even 0w is too thick when cold. But it's thinner than other grades and that makes it better for cold startups.

I started using 0w-30 after reading this article: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles First part of Chapter 2 is where he shows the thickness at 75 and 212° of straight 30 weight and other multi-grade oils.

For getting the air out of the cooling system, I typically do a combination of opening the bleed screw and squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to help work out the bubbles. However I've always run the engine to warm it up until the thermostat opens with the radiator cap off. Some sources including Helms say to put the cap on until the first "click" and not all the way tight, while the engine warms up. However the other day I ran the engine with the cap on tight, and I believe some air was still trapped in the system.

Tomorrow I'll be draining the water and refilling with 50/50, and will fill it with the bleed screw open, hopefully to help reduce the amount of air that gets trapped in the system.

I also got the new coolant temp sender for the dash gauge. I tested the resistance with it at room temperature and also suspended in near-boiling water, and right away it's showing a MUCH wider range of resistance than the original one installed in the car right now. That one seems to be stuck right around 110-120 ohms which is why I think the needle never moves from about 1/3 right from cold (a little lower than the normal position of just left of half).

So that pretty much confirms it's the sender and not the gauge that's the problem.

Now we get to drive the car 1000+ miles to Florida and back. I'll be taking a few tools and a jug of coolant with us, just in case.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Replaced temp sending unit and replaced the coolant. Now it's warming up and the temp gauge appears to be working perfectly.

racebum

you know, this is one of the coolest threads we've had on honda tech in awhile. good questions and answers and a good outcome for pat

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Hell yeah, been driving the car around all afternoon today. Interstates, surface streets, stop n go traffic, all the time with the A/C running. It never missed a beat, feels like it's back 100% One thing I did notice with the new ECT sensor is that the gauge needle came up off of cold QUICK! I mean it was up at the normal operating temp level in maybe 1/2 a mile or so. Will be interesting to see how quick it comes up in the dead of winter in the mornings on the way to work, because that used to take like 2 miles or so before it got up to normal temp. But maybe that was just the old sensor on its way out or something.

So today I got the 50/50 coolant and 0w30 oil and new filter all in there.

I also took the time to tackle one of those little nagging problems my car has had for years: the clip holding the windshield washer fluid hose to the driver side shock tower. I have replaced this clip probably 4 or 5 times at least over the years. The problem is that the clip goes through a hole at the top of the shock tower, and apparently the UCA would get just high enough at times to whack that clip and break it off. Then the hose with the broken clip would just be flopping around on top of the shock tower. Then I would order a new one and stick it in, until it got broken again within a few months.

Well this time I (think) I have it fixed permanently. I removed the rest of the retaining clip portion, drilled a hole through the holder portion of the clip, and then stuck a screw up from underneath the shock tower, with a nut on top. So the only thing sticking down under the shock tower is that small screw head and a washer. Hopefully the UCA won't affect that.

As an aside, my rear washer sprayed has never worked properly since I bought the car 12 years ago, and in fact I removed all the hose running through the car to the roof back in 2005. One of these days I'd like to get an Integra 4-door washer tank with only the single pump mounted to it, instead of the current tank with 2 pumps on it. Then I can get rid of the last piece of hose in the engine bay that used to go to the rear roof of the car.







One of these days I also hope I can knock out that broken tower brace stud and replace it.

tamboo

"Hell yeah, been driving the car around all afternoon today. Interstates, surface streets, stop n go traffic, all the time with the A/C running. It never missed a beat, feels like it's back 100%"

this! after weeks of trying to solve my tps/cam align issue it rocks to blast down the ozarks backroads again! gotta sort out the radio now, end of the line for the factory unit i'm afraid r.i.p. turned it on today and it activated the wipers haha. need to glue in a ***load of speaker foam too. ozarks will eat your car lol. got those xtc foam units off ebay so i can just trim off the excess foam and use that. hey look @ chaos build's radiator hose lol.



looks like his original did the rupture rapture too.
all my other hoses are still original btw. have fun! 8)

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Checked the coolant level this morning, it's still right up at the filler neck on the radiator. I've been trying to take it easy on the engine but this morning got on it a bit up to about 5K-6K RPM. Felt awesome.

So far the engine seems to be back at 100%

First post index also updated.

tamboo

here's the speaker refoam project, plenty of excess foam on the xtc enclosures to go to town with. looks totally amateur hour of course but the sound now kicks ***. the locktite extreme works well but dont wait 5 minutes to join your parts, more like 2. couldnt find any replacement foam in my size so getting good quality stuff plus the enclosures for $15 is a steal. just gotta cut out the rest of those facory speaker covers that are half solid plastic lol.



even if you dont need the extra foam the enclosures will give you more oomph and protection from the elements on the cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Install-Bay-VXT69-XTC-6-x-9-Foam-Car-Stereo-Speaker-Baffles-/300938599411?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4611569bf3

racebum

^

is this guy trying to thread jack or what?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

That's nice man but you really need to make your own thread about it. Thanks

S2BumpsticksGSR

Oh yeah, sure is

B_Swapped93

That has to one of the most blatant thread jacks I've ever seen lol. he has 11 posts even so he's not a first timer. Either way i'm enjoying this thread, neat to see with that many miles still a strong engine still can't get over those comp numbers after all that time. that's like 630,xxxKM's !

sweesiong78

So with this kind of semi DIY rebuilds, what can you expect the engine to last till? another 300000 miles? can you expect a professionaly rebuilt engine to last as long as the original?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Who knows, only way to find out is to see how long it lasts.

I've put about 240,000 on the car since I bought it 12 years ago, but the majority of that was from before I got married in 2007. The car turned 250,000 in May 2007, and then it took me another 4 years to get another 50K when it turned 300K in April 2011. Lately I've only been doing about 12K-13K a year, and probably even less now since I started bike commuting twice a week to work, which is a 30 mile round trip.

In the month of June I stretched out a tank of gas to 3 weeks due to biking and using my wife's car on the weekends. Of course I was really just avoiding driving the car because of the blown head gasket.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Well we made it over 500 miles to Destin FL in this car yesterday. Car performed flawlessly the whole trip, and also turned over 330,000 miles. We took our bikes on the bike rack, which made me more nervous than the car itself haha. I was watching both the temp gauge and the bikes in the rear view like a hawk the entire trip.

What sucks is the weight and increased drag of the bikes cost us about 5 MPG. Last year on the same trip we got 33 MPG. This year only 28.

Another thing to report is that I just looked this morning and noticed a small coolant leak around the block drain plug, despite me putting a new washer on the plug a couple of weeks ago. I may try to tighten it a bit more. Otherwise I guess I'll have to drain the coolant AGAIN to replace that washer yet again. Joy.

But otherwise the radiator is drawing coolant from the overflow bottle just like it should, so that's really great news to me. . Now time to enjoy some bike rides along the beach.

syvlvr

Inspiring! I hope to keep my "girl" going as long or longer, about to turn 200k miles. To me these cars are like the energizer bunny, keep going and going. But fun too...

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so here we are 3 months after I did anything on the car (replaced the temp sender and new oil and coolant in the car).

The great news is that coolant loss is absolutely zero. I filled the cooling system on 7/27 including filling to the HOT mark on the overflow, and today 3 months later the coolant in the overflow is still at the COLD level when the engine cold. Coolant still right up to the filler neck on the radiator.

The not so great news is that the car consumes more oil now, I'm guessing past the piston rings. It used to use only 1 quart in 6K miles, or around 6 months between oil changes. Now it's using right at 1 quart in 3K miles. It's not a huge deal I guess, as I always just buy the 5-qt jugs of oil and put 4 in, then can top off with that last quart 3 months later. I have not checked the engine compression since I got everything back together and working properly.

The other thing is that MPG seems to have dipped a bit since the work was done. Could the blown HG have fouled my O2 sensor? Before the HG blew the car was regularly getting 29-30 MPG on a tank of gas. Now it's only getting 26-27. On our FL trip (pictured above) it even dipped below 26, which I thought was because of the bikes on the rack. I'm sure that still had an effect but it wasn't the only reason, apparently. The car has a Denso O2 sensor that I installed 4-5 years ago so I wonder if a new one would give me a bump in MPG.

When I put the Denso O2 sensor in, I was replacing the factory original one with over 250K on it, and I definitely got a nice bump in MPG back then.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

back from the dead! lol, how is the car holding up?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Car has 355K on it now, time to change that timing belt! My clutch is starting to slip also, which is odd because it only has about 90K daily driving miles on it.

*edit* and I just finished the same job (head gasket) on my wife's POS 96 Corolla. Only I didn't have to wait so long on parts and it's only been down since last Tuesday. It's about done now, but I also had to replace the brake MC and now I have to bleed the entire system. POS car, I'm sick to death of it (the Corolla).

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

Hey OP, I read your thread and wanted to say good work! I also watched the video of you firing the car up with the new head and strongly suggest you have the valve clearances adjusted. It sounds like a bucket of loose change bouncing around. Your valves should be silent when the lash is set correctly. Despite what many on this forum say "Oh B series are just noisy" "Oh H series are just noisy" no they are not. When they were new they were silent and they can be silent. I work for Honda and can tell you if you can't get them silent, pay a tech who is trained how to do valve lashes correctly do one on your car. With that said, when you get heads rebuilt they don't set the lash. If you set the lash yourself you need more practice and I would recommend doing it again. Other than that great work!

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

It's always more noisy when cold than after it's warmed up. It's called metal expansion. The camshaft lobe-to-rocker (valve lash) clearance causes noise, but that clearance goes away when the metal expands so there's no more (or reduced) noise during full temperature idling.

I've been working on this car, maintaining it and keeping it running since you were 15 years old, and working on cars in general for a good bit longer. Believe me when I say I know the valve lash is set correctly.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

My post was not meant to come off as critical but rather as a helpful one. Age does not dictate knowledge.

Classic car forum response. Enjoy your loud engine.