Contender25

Like it says i changed my timing belt and water pump with a oem from the dealership!, and i made sure the #1 piston was at TDC, you know the block, and i made sure both the cam gears were at the UP marks. Well anyways it stays cooler now and runs fine, even sounds more quiet, but i went on a test drive and it runs slower now!, it bogs when i take off in first slow and 2nd and so on forth. I wanted everyone's opinion because i could have swore i did timing right on it and everything, unless someone thinks it's off a degree or a few, i don't know. Btw i din't take off the distibutor when i changed out the Timing belt and water pump and i din't reset the ECU either, could that be it??. help me out guys.

Contender25

Im scared to drive it really, im afraid the only time ill try to drive it is if i go to a local shop and get them to check timing with a timing gun or something and redo it i guess?.

mickey513

Timing is off, check to see if you are off by a tooth or two.

Contender25

How can i tell man?, all i did was put the block and head at TDC when i changed out the timing belt and water pump, i don't have a timing gun, and i don't know how to check for teeth being off or degree's either.

seer_claw

It sounds like that when you tightened up the belt you pulled the crank or cams off TDC. What I did was use bulldog clips (big black paperclips) to attach the cams at TDC. Then thread the belt the rest of the way around. I also put the crank a tooth off TDC so that when I tightened it it moved to TDC.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

This might help you.

Contender25

Thanks alot buddy, i had a feeling something like that might have happen, cause i swore i put everything into check, so yeah it must have slipped a hair or too. Does anyone think it would be safe to drive it to a shop to get it redone if i wanted too?, it's slow as **** right now.

Sam92Teg

Don't drive it, just pull the valve cover back off and pull your spark plugs so the crank will turn like butter. Then turn your crank pulley counterclockwise untill the cams are at TDC. Now look down at the white mark on your crank pulley, I bet it will be off about a half inch or more. If the cams are at TDC and the crank pulley's white mark is at the pointer, you are timed perfectly. You might need a good light to see the marks clearly.

If not, just loosen your tensionor again and slip the belt off, turn the crank clockwise a tiny little bit till the white mark is right on the pointer. If you have an LS, you can even stick 8mm punches or drill bits into the #1 cam holders to hold it at TDC while you replace the belt. Make sure to retension the tensionor by turning the crank pulley bolt counterclockwise 3 teeth on the cam pulleys and torque the tensionor bolt to 40 ft/lbs.

Go ahead and turn the crank thru a full revolution and bring the cams back to TDC. Check to see if when the cams are at TDC that the crank pulley white mark is dead on the pointer. Congrats, you just retimed your engine to perfection. If you can't seem to get it right, try try again.
Hope this helps, I was bored and just did this myself a few days ago.

Contender25

Ok...lol Thanks the info and help, that pretty much sums it up for me. I was thinkin i would try and get out sometime this week and mess with it again, and take off that **** to readjust it i guess, but you know you said somethin bout the spark plugs bein out, and it makes the crank turn over more easy?, i did not know that. I also saw this one trick where you put it in 5th gear and get someone to hold the brake pedal to prevent the crank from moving, but it still turned to i guess they lied about it. Btw i guess i was makin my tensioner too tight cause i guess i did it too like 80-100 ft/lbs, instead of 40...well anyways now my bolt is turning into **** cause one corner is kinda stripped, but not the whole bolt yet.

Contender25

Forgot to mention!, my crank pulley doesn't have a white mark, it has little marks like these. ' ' ' -- ' <-------- notice how the 4th little mark is away from the other 3 marks, they're are no colors on mine, so im guessing the farthest mark to the right on the crank pulley is the TDC mark with the oil pump right?.

Contender25

I fixed my edit cause my text was crap, please get back with me on this. I need to know exactly before i redo it again.

RaNMaN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Contender25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forgot to mention!, my crank pulley doesn't have a white mark, it has little marks like these. ' ' ' -- ' &lt;-------- notice how the 4th little mark is away from the other 3 marks, they're are no colors on mine, so im guessing the farthest mark to the right on the crank pulley is the TDC mark with the oil pump right?. </TD></TR></TABLE>

right, well you want to line that mark up with the pointer on the lower timing belt cover and the 2nd mark that you drew is the mark that you want to set your base timing to when you get a timing light on it, good luck.

Contender25

Hey guys, whats the best idea i can do to hold the crank steady on the TDC mark, while i slip on the T-belt, it slips too easy when i try to put the belt on via crank then tensioner then water pump then exhaust/intake cam gears.

Contender25

Only idea i could think of was to stick a screw driver in between the tranny housing and the flywheel i guess is what you do with the starter off. But i was hoping though that there might be a more easy way to hold it steady for a few secs while i slip the T-belt on.