dunked dc

ok so i just did an oem rebuild on my b18 non vtec and im about 450 miles into the break in process doing my 3rd oil change at 500miles. My problem is my car starts to stall out if i press on the gas to much runs fine if i only press it in maybe an inch but as soon as i push past that is starts jerking and dying out then wen i let off its back to running also in my break in i havnt reved it over 3500 rps yet because thats the break in process im using but also thats wen it starts to die out ne ideas greatly appreciated thanks

delsolproblems

Make sure that all of the sensors along the intake are hooked up properly. Some of their connectors, like the ones for the TPS and MAP, can be switched. Check the wire colors to make sure they are connected correctly. Test the sensors with a meter to be sure they are receiving and transmitting the right voltages. Check your sparks at each plug wire. Does it run any better/worse at high rpm? Is there any chance dust got into the fuel rail while you were working on it?

dunked dc

i put the same motor in as came out the exact same way everything is plugged up right i highly doubt ne dust got into the fuel rail ive ran 450 miles did one tank with sea foam i got sum vacuum lines bypasses but they were like that b4. Also it sometimes will idle high at like 2300rps then if i stomp the gas peddle and let off real quick it dropps back down to a perfect 900

dunked dc

and it runs the same always but wont rev past like 4 grand less i jus hold the peddle down a little and let the rpms work there way up cant just hit the gas it wont climb it will fall like if i were to pull the key out with it running in gear untill i let off the gas then it comes back

angel_i

change ur plugs

delsolproblems

Check the ignition timing with a timing light. If you don't have a light, try advancing it a hair and see if it helps the problem. Remember to warm up the engine and jump the little connector by the ECU before using a timing light. Ignition timing always changes a little after a rebuild.

dunked dc

well today i replaced my radiator with a half size one and changed the spark plugs now my car climbs in rpms without stalling but the power isnt there at all im still reving it to 3500 but its taking awhile to get there imma try and check it with a timing light

delsolintegra

Maybe you need new spark plug wires?

They breakdown down and may look good but internally they are shot.

delsolproblems

The fact that the motor won't rev beyond a certain point points to a timing problem. Even a weak ignition won't stop the rpm from increasing. He definately had an ignition problem and might still but the timing should be fixed first as that is a more dangerous condition to drive with. Once the timing is set, it wouldn't be a bad idea to test your spark at each plug wire and see for yourself how it's doing.

dunked dc

the wires are good i have a strong blue spark through each one this morning i realized that the temperature has strong effect on the problem, This morning i woke up started the car9 and took off didnt let it idle just left and the rpms climbed all the way and i was able to put the peddle to the floor. later wen temp outside increased (about 85 degreed) and my motor was warm the problem returned stalling around 35oo rpms and stalling wen i floor it

delsolproblems

Problems with ignition components usually get worse the hotter the engine is, especially with the coil and ICM. Also, ignition issues frequently get better as the rpm increases because more voltage is being fed into the system at higher rpm. Ignition timing changes as the engine heats up as well. If you test your ignition again, make sure the engine is hot so any heat-related problems are evident. My preferred method of testing the ignition is to either purchase a spark tester or:

Performing this test at night or in a dark area will make it easier to see the sparks. Warm the car up completely to normal operating temperature or as hot as your motor gets. Ignition components are affected by heat and problems with those parts may not show up until the engine is hot. Disable the fuel injectors by pulling the fuse or disconnecting them and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire. Hold the plastic deep-well tube by the rubber boot at the tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching clean, bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant watch you during the test so that the starter can be turned off immediately if need be. Tell the person to crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts as far from the plug, motor and metal body parts as possible. You're not just avoiding touching the source of the voltage, but also any grounded metal. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or white. Little "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.

dunked dc

i have tested all four wires and they all produce a strong spark what is it that im looking for that would be an error?

angel_i

check your cam/crank timing and make sure it is spot on. Having it advanced will cause huge torque but it will die off quickly.

delsolproblems

I wanted to make sure you tested when the motor was hot and the problem was occurring, that you checked the grounds with the ignition, that you had an idea what good and bad sparks look like, etc. Just a few things that were included when pasting the test procedure.

Hondatherdm

i would replace fuel filter and measure resistance of your spark plug wires

angel_i

Wires will cause the same symptoms

dunked dc

bought a new fuel filter and redid the timing it was a hair off but is set primo now all that improved was it starts stroger and idles better but it still stalls up wen i floor it...Sparks all seem strong wen it is running warm