92integraVTECgsr

I have a built LS/VTEC. It is leaking only from the oil pan gasket and down. I know this because I just added dye to the oil this morning. Took off the timing belt cover, and drove around all day today pretty hard because it seems to leak more when its in VTEC.

Well tonight I lifted the car back up and turned the lights out in the garage and used a black uv light. I could clearly see the oil coming from the timing belt side of the oil pan gasket, the front of the block and about 5 inches along the backside of the block all on the driver's side of the motor. There was NO oil above the oil pan gasket. There was oil on the driver side lower control arm and the subframe where the control arm bolts to.

I've been studying this for quite some time now and it seems like the oil is blowing out the oil pan gasket due to too much crankcase pressure, hence the oil on the lower control arm and subframe. And no, there is no oil on the axle boot for some reason. So I put an Endyn Breather kit on the block and it is still happening.

I have changed the oil pan gasket 6 times and changed the oil pan once (used aftermarket in good condition, so it looked).

I have tried using Felpro and OEM Honda gaskets with and without Ultra Grey/Hondabond/Ultra Black and they all leak. The mating surface is always clean and dry.

The only other option I have left is to put a new OEM Honda oil pan on and gasket.

I have never had this kind of trouble before on any of my other Integra's.

Can anyone help me or has anyone experienced this before? Could I still have too much block pressure? I wouldn't think so.

Please.. Need advise.

projectTeG

could it be the pump leaking at the pan? because if your creating enough crank pressure to blow oil out of the pan, then you have internal issues.

lostforawhile

if the pan is vented so pressure can't build up, then it has to be a leak, have you checked to see if the pan flange is warped? how are you tightening the bolts/ in what pattern? are you using a torque wrench? i don't think it's much more then 10 inch pounds, if you make it too tight it will leak. did you apply sealer just at the four corners where the pan goes from flat to round? it doesn't need any more then that.

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Do you have an oil pressure gauge hooked up? If so what's it reading? The only time that I had oil pan sealing issues is when I had major bottom end trouble. Not sure if there was any connection to my oil pan leaking and the bad bearings, but I couldn't get it to stop leaking, and I had low oil pressure. Be very careful how you torque it down, they can be very easy to pinch. Also, is it possible that bottom of the block where it meets the oil pan is bent or marred up? Maybe from over torquing a bolt? Just throwing possibilities out there.

92integraVTECgsr

Like I said, I have tried 2 different oil pans. I have tried 6 gaskets with and without sealer in all areas and ways possible. Still leaks.

The motor has 24,000 miles on and runs AMAZING!!! no issues at all, besides the oil leak. It made 187whp/133tq.

Everything was BRAND new when I built it.

I do have an oil pressure gauge. I have my oil line run from the stock oil pressure sensor to the back of the head. In the middle of that line I have a 4-way fitting with the stock oil pressure gauge and an autometer electric gauge. When I hit VTEC, I am around 85-90psi according to the gauge. At idle it is around 25psi and.

drastikmeasurez

Ever figure this out? Having same problem with my gsr

94 ls-r

What year of ls block did you use? Ond2 ls has no breather cause the pcv is in the valve cover. There is no v tec cover with a valve in it. May need after market breather

racebum

i have a fairly good idea what's causing this

these Fking pans can be a pain

you have to

1. run the oil pan through the dishwasher or really really spray it down with brake clean.
2. it helps to LIGHTLY sand the flange where the gasket sits to get any last bit of oil residue off, use 220 grit or finer
3. do not goop the gasket, install dry
4. ONLY use a 1/4" ratchet or tq wrench and tighten to spec, do not over tighten or tighten the bolts in the wrong order. you start from the middle of the pan and work out going in a cross pattern
5. do it 1st thing in the morning before you start the car so oil isn't running down the block
6. clean the aluminum on the block REALLY well

if you do this it won't leak, miss a step and it might

vrrodri

All my TQ wrenches start at 10 ft lbs or higher. I hear the TQ for these bolst is 7-9 ft lbs...I suppose 10ft lbs will not be bad.

fcm

Absolutely do not over-tighten oil pan bolts, go and rent a proper wrench, pretty sure it is 96 in-lbs. 94

racebum

you have to use a 1/4" tq wrench that does inch pounds or nm/mm, i've done enough i can do it by feel with a 1/4" ratchet but without experience you need the correct torque wrench. 10ft/lb is the MAX i would put on them, it's over spec and almost impossible for a larger wrench to hit right. if yours says 10 as the low setting, unless it's a perfectly calibrated snap on chances are it's more like 14lb which is way too much. the beam is too long as well allowing too much force, could even be higher than 14? who knows

vrrodri

Hmmm, time to go to northern tools or sears and get me a new tool. Cool.

racebum

the 1/4" craftsman torque wrench is just the ticket

vrrodri

Thanks, I had not seen that one before at Sears, guess I was not looking.

typerwhat

Dang. Old thread. For anyone still struggling with b-series oil pan leaks, I echo what others have said about PCV, proper torque, and using a good oil pan gasket. Personally, I upgraded my PCV to higher flow, got a great Snap-on wrench, and used the myHondaHabit oil pan gasket. If the oil pan flanges are clean and straight, it seals. Well worth it.