Johnoolo

So when i finished installing the clutch i can drive the car but if i push the clutch all the way down i hear this grinding noise and its very hard to get into gear i kind of have to rev match in order to shift

B_Swapped93

Dude combine all your threads into: "Johnoolo's clutch replacement" lol I keep seeing clutch related things from you OP.

either way did you get all the air out of the line ? 2nd iirc you were going to reuse your old pressure plate is this a fully clutch kit from exedy or CC ?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I think we're being trolololed. Dude's got 20 threads open on his clutch replacement and they all seem very suspect.

Johnoolo

Your not I can't find all the answers I've researched ive asked my auto tech instructors and nobody can answer all my questions

Johnoolo

I Got the new pressure plate on so it's the entire exedy oem kit , but in order to shift I can't push the clutch all the way in or I get this grinding noise and I'm Locked out if I put my clutch 3/4 to the floor it is fine like a normal clutch would engage. I was tol that slave cylinders can be adjusted but I don't know for sure?

kyden

you can't adjust the slave cylinder. if it worked before and doesn't work now, you probably screwed something up installing. clutch on backwards?

Johnoolo

I didn't install back words it was labeled transmission side flywheel side could replacing cause the master cylinder to be out of adjustment could it be the shift linkage by chance or the clutch not bled all the way because if I push it in all the way it locks me out if gear. and if im in gear and push clutch all the way in i hear a slight grinding noise.I'm driving it easy right now trying to determine problem

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Combining your threads into one gives people some sort of history to help you with. You have like 10 threads open about the same problem...doesn't help anyone help you.

It sounds like theres a throw out bearing problem. Bleeding your hydraulic system isn't going to help you. I guess if the adjustment on the MC was too tight, the travel of your clutch fork might be too long and the fingers of the clutch could be hitting the disk springs or hub. That theory is very thin, though.

Did you torque all the flywheel and clutch bolts properly? Maybe you should pay for someone to install this....

racebum

this

sounds like the bolts came lose

had the same thing happen on the first clutch i ever did back in the day. never made that mistake again. quality torque wrench and loctite on every clutch

Johnoolo

i torqued them all to 19 foot pounds as it said in the book for the pressure plate

Johnoolo

my instructor and i determined that the fork is pushing to far when i push the clutch in, so i suppose i have to take the slave off and see if i can wiggle the fork to a better place i clipped it onto the ball if not i guess i have drop it again and take the clip off and try again

racebum

the only way i could see this being possible is if you have a flywheel that sits too far toward the transmission, everything would shift

the flywheel bolts are the ones that typically come loose

if there is ANY crap on the crank snout preventing a perfectly parallel sit you can also have this issue since the clutch kit will basically wobble

i mean, i'm looking at pictures of a clutch install just to refresh my memory

http://www.turboinstall.net/general-...lutch-install/

you do realize the master cylinder is adjustable and if the slave is going in too far you can back off the master right?

this post is a garble of thoughts that came to me while typing

Johnoolo

I will probably have to drop it again then, but the question is can different clutch's need different adjustments at the master cylinder? I didnt have any problems before?

racebum

different clutches do need different settings with the master. it's easy to do, loosen the 12mm nut and spin the rod till shifting improves and the feel is correct. if you had an adjustment for a worn down clutch, threw in a new one, chances are it would overtravel. you back off the master a bit and the throw will be correct again

try this before you tear **** apart

Johnoolo

Ok I will try that today and let you know

Johnoolo

On the pressure plate of flywheel I wonder I didn't use locktite because it didn't specify to do so from the book

racebum

correct, book doesn't, i just learned to do so from having things come apart when not. i always went a little over on the torque and used loctite. 25lb on the plate and 90-100 on the flywheel.

that said i'm still curious if your issue is just master travel. normally lose bolts cause some type of vibration, clunking or a pedal that doesn't function properly

Johnoolo

I guess what I will do it mark the rod where it is back it off an if I have to drop it I can put the master cylinder back, but now that I think of it when I had my shitty xtd clutch in sometimes the clutch wouldn't let me shift either so it's possible this clutch is just to far I guess but if not i suppose I ll re torque everything get the flywheel resurfaced use some loctite I wonder if I did fork wrong

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend against loctite on the flywheel....or overtorquing. I've never had anything come loose. I clean all threads with brake clean and blow them dry via compressed air. I torque to 76lbs and 18lbs.

I gguess a little extra torque and loctite wouldn't hurt...but it should never come loose if it's done correctly.

racebum

GM recommends loctite on the flywheel and plate in higher performance cars so it's not unusul for OEM's to do it. generally the blue gel is enough. it's just insurance against backing off i suspect what can cause them to come loose are vibrations, worn threads that don't torque like new, any debris that prevents proper torquing or, the #1 cause any debris on the snout of flywheel mating surface that prevents a perfect seating {that last one was the issue mine had years back}

in fact to make loctite have any effect you have to brake clean and use compressed air. if the threads are oily loctite has no effect

Johnoolo

So something may be wiggling and causing a problem I now noticed if its in neutral theirs a slight hum sound from the tranny and if I push the clutch in a little bit it goes away but once I'm in gear as long as I don't push the clutch in all the way I don't have a problem

Bl6da9

X2, I've done many clutch jobs in my day and I've never used locktite and never had a single issue.


BTW: I'd say this end up being a throwout bearring issue, from improper installation.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

There's gotta be something wrong with the install. I'm still kinda convinced that you're trolling...but...idk yet.

Maybe your throwout bearing fell off the clutch fork on one side as you put the trans on?

Johnoolo

the throwout bearing could have fallen off i suspect i thought it was to loose on the fork and im not trolling i wouldn't waste my time asking questions if i was trolling. i appreciate yall helping me im going to pull the tranny again Monday and figure out the problem

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Well....the fork should be loose before you put the slave cylinder on. You bave to be careful not to knock it off the pivot and be careful that the throw out bearing stays on the slide and the fork as you put the trans back on the engine.