k3ntegra

Too long, did not read (TLDR): After 1000 miles from the last oil changes, car seems to burn up/use up motor oil, making it near impossible to use synthetic oil for 7000+ miles, even if the oil change were performed by a mechanic.

At 180,000 miles (September 2014), I changed the motor oil in my car for first time. It was also the first time I used synthetic oil ( ) since owning the car from 140,000 miles.

When I performed the change, there was less than 2.5 quarts drained from the oil pan. This was approximately after 3,000 miles from taking the car to a mechanic, and the third time after taking the car to that particular mechanic: https://i.imgur.com/jU671zy.jpg

The mechanics crush washer was super tight and so was the oil filter. I need an oil filter plier to remove the filter. As the picture shows, the mechanics crush washer looks nothing like the OEM: https://i.imgur.com/TgBYSwM.jpg.

The oil filter the mechanic used was a Prime Guard with a self-proclaimed longevity of 5,000 miles. I used a , with a claimed longevity of 10,000+ miles

After putting the synthetic motor oil, my goal was to perform the next oil change after 7 to 8 thousand miles. I only “hand tightened” the drain bolt and oil filter. I also used a different/new crush washer I got from the Honda dealership.

I posted a thread, were I was concerned about white smoke coming from the engine, short after performing my first oil change on my own: https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...cause-3223561/

After 5 thousand (January 2015), I decided to check the oil with the dipstick, immediately after taking a 15 minute drive. The only thing on the dipstick was tar, close the bottom tip. I came back 30 minutes later and it was the same thing.

That same day I did an oil change (185,000 miles), using . Only less than 1 quart of oil was drained from the oil pan: https://i.imgur.com/YzuWznS.jpg
I also decided to change the filter, although I probably shouldn’t have, but to get rid of conventional oil remnant, it may have been worth it. Unlike the previous Prime Guard filter (w/conventional oil), a lot of oil came gushing out from the K&N filter, as soon as I rotated it counter-clockwise 4 times, and while it was completely horizontal. The amount in the filter, was probably the equivalent of 1 to 1.5 measuring cups.

This time, I not only, unnecessarily, used another crush washer (brand new, bought from a “reliable” eBay seller), I also tightened the drain bolt, a lot harder than before, using my body weight & full strength to seal it. The new (& second) K&N HP-1004 filter was only hand tightened, instead of with an oil filter plier.

I checked the oil every week for 4 weeks or the first 1 thousand miles, and it remained between the lower and upper dot on the dipstick, if not, over the top dot by a few millimeters. I decided to check the oil level again, 850 miles later (1,850 from the most current oil change). The oil level is slightly below the first dot on the dip stick, 2 millimeters off.

I’m guessing I’ll have to take the car to mechanic and see where the leak or cause for high oil burn rate?

Note: Engine temperature on the dashboard has always been at the same spot it’s been since I owned the vehicle, for the past 5 years. The gauge precedes the middle line between cold and hot.

I occasionally rev the car up 5,000+ RPMs while driving in 2nd gear.

I have an extra quart of oil from the Mobil 1 and Royal Purple 5 quart bottles, just laying around. I’d like to go ahead and use those up. Instead of just leaving the fire hazards lying around.

B_Swapped93

1: look for a leak you more then likely have one 2: wet and dry compression test it post number of both tests 3:use regular conventional oil it's a stock integra not a outlaw drag monster... it's no myth that synth has a lower viscosity then regular 5w-30 and is more prone to leak due to its low viscosity. by that I mean where regular oil may slightly leak somewhere synth will certainly leak faster at that same spot again due to it's viscosity. it's not something you or your mechanic are doing it's just the car aging, gaskets cracking etc.

k3ntegra

I'm sorry for not mentioning this in my original post. When I first did the oil change myself. I didn't notice any leaks on the ground, coming from the drain pain. But thanks for the response. I'll make note of 3 suggestions to my mechanic.

B_Swapped93

it won't be a leak that bad... I mean that nasty grime you get under the distributor area and all along the top of your oil pan etc.

Mccormick009

I don't know what your car is like but i have 170,000 miles on my car and I go through about a quart of oil every 500-700 miles. I have gone through and fixed a ton of small leaks but it still consumes it.
I race my car at least once a month but take very good care of it. I am pretty sure the oil ring on my Pistons are starting to age. Not enough to pull motor apart but I know eventually it will get worse.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You guys know this is the poster that started that "oil change supplies" thread, right?

This is exactly the same attempt. Yall been had.

k3ntegra

Yeah, I noticed quite a bit of what looked like "oil residue" before doing the oil change myself, the 1st and 2nd time.

It seems the wisest idea now, would be to add the extra quarts of oil I have left (1 at a time) from the Mobil 1 and Royal Purple 5 quart bottles (I only added 4 quarts of oil). Then take car to a mechanic and see what he can do to reduce the leakage.

Thanks for the helpful response.

And no one even bothered mentioning cardboard box... my idea. Although I read posts on other forums where people mentioned using the item, after performing the change.
A floor jack is indeed the "King of the Garage". Did my own tire rotation, so far so good.

Hoping to do my own rotor swap, soon. I ended up with a "warped" $40 Brembo rotor (after 3 to 6 thousand miles of usage) from an eBay seller. According to my mechanic, the warp wouldn't cause long term damage.

Edit: I inserted 1 quart of oil left over from the Mobil 1. The oil amount registered 4mm above the upper dot of the dipstick. I'll try to report back within the next 500 to 1000 miles.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Why are you using 5w-30? With the mileage on your engine, you should run 10w-30.

Chances are, if you dont have a leak, you're just burning the oil past the rings. I'm sure those 5k shifts are more often than "occasional". Have someone record your car from behind as you do a 5k rpm shift...all that white/grey smoke you leave behind is the result of oil burning within your engine and exhaust system.

Harry3

Your car might also benefit from shorter oil change intervals. Those "intervals" are suggestions and not really hard and fast rules, especially with those miles and its age.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

How/why/what would this help? Apples to apples, it only makes the oil thicker between start up and operating temp. It still has equivalent viscosity to a 30 oil at operating temp. If anything, it will cause more wear on the engine and compound the problem later.

A better solution would be to use an oil that's thin at start up....but thicker at operating temp...but still falls into a 30 grade. Like Castrol GC 0W30 (black bottle), or AMSoil euro formula 5W30.

But...remember:
-this thread is likely for trolling purposes
-why the hell would you want to use AMSoil on a 180k mile non-VTEC integra? For the cost of the oil, you can buy 20 engines.
-My math is off. But only very slightly.

testify

Mobil1 5w30 synth is notorious for shearing almost immediately. It's really the single worst motor oil on the market. The cheapest $2/quart conventional oil will protect your motor better.

When the mobil1 shears and breaks down, it gets really thin, and blows right past your piston rings, causing it to disappear.

Don't use Mobil1. Mobil1 is crap.

I recommend Rotella T6 5w40.

305_DB7ish

I used Mobil 1 5w30 also and lost a good deal of oil. I also have a leak somewhere though. I'll be doing an oil change again soon, probably try Rotella out. I know it was the best recommend oil for 7.3L Powerstrokes back when I had my F250, must be pretty good stuff.

testify

I run it in every car I own. It's good stuff.

The only reason not to step up to a thicker oil is if you need protection in cold temps, or are concerned about gas mileage.

wunfstgsr

You can try a can of the 4 cylinder engine restore from your local auto store, its a silver can, its used on high mile engines that have oil consumption/ low compression issues. Iv used it before on a older gsr engine it helped with the oil consumption and restored a bit of compression. Also used it on my Type R engine when it cracked a ring land just for the hell of it before i pulled the engine, the can actually restored some compression and gave a bit of power back but its only a band aid for the time being.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Thicker oil. For protection in LOWER temps?

......

B_Swapped93

this thread...lolz almost as bad as #TheDress.

testify

You've seriously either got the worst reading comprehension of anyone on this forum, or you are a failure as a troll.

Based on my past interactions with you, I'm guessing its a lot of both.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Ah. I guess I missed the "not".

Mybad.

See? I'm not a bad guy.

k3ntegra

At 188 thousand miles, the oil registered around 4 mm above the bottom dot of the dipstick. I'll probably add another quatt of royal purple by the next 1500 mi.

I hope to perform the next change at around 192,500 mi.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

Stop putting in synthetic. It wont protect your engine any better than conventional oil for regular driving.

Stop by a walmart and pick up some 5w-30 pennzoil HM or valvoline maxlife. The reason why you are losing so much oil is most likely due to your oil control rings being worn.

some other reasons why you are losing oil is:
-gunked up piston rings(do an mmo piston soak and an italian tuneup)
-valve stems
-oil leaks

k3ntegra

Main reason I use synthetic is due to the higher changing intervals, especially since I change the oil myself. Thanks for the 4 bulletins: oil control rings, gunked piston rings, valve stems, & oil leaks.

B_Swapped93

Most likely leaks and with a much lower viscosity oil to aid the leaks what can you expect, it's a high millage car that still has all it's "day one" oem gaskets.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

You dont see where I was getting with my response?

This is why my advice would help...

k3ntegra

After about 4,000 miles, I drained the oil. I only added an additional 1 quart of oil, after 2,000 miles.

When I drained the oil, there was around 2.5 quarts. I also decided to keep the K&N HP-1004 filter, since it's supposed to last at least 10,000+ miles.

Therefore, it seems wiser to use conventional oil on a 100,000+ mile, 10+ year old car , and only change the high-end filter after 2 or 3 oil changes.

Edit: Royal Purple which only makes synthetic oils, has a product intended . Unfortunately I mixed my high mileage syn oil with 1 remaining quart of the high performance.