BigFudge

I that know my post is going to be long but I want to give a detailed description of what is going on with my car in hopes that someone can help me get this straightened out so please read it word for word.

I own a 1998 Acura Integra LS with a B18B1 and 5-Speed. It's my daily driver. Up until a few weeks ago I have never had a problem with it, big or small. I remember it was a Sunday before I had to go back to work the following morning and I was just sitting at my house bored so I decided to clean the throttle body. I pulled the air intake tube off and sprayed carb cleaner inside the throttle body and wiped the butterfly on the front and back side (throttle open and closed). I put the air intake back on and started the car up and noticed it was idling high - 1,000 RPM's at warm idle. Before it would idle steady at 750-800 RPM's at warm idle. I drove it around the block and it kept idling high so I just shut it off and didn't drive it any more for the day. I drove it to work the next morning and was almost at work and stopped at the stoplight right before my work. I sat there for a second with the car idling high and took my foot off of the brake and then just tapped the brake and the car IMMEDIATELY idled up to 1500 RPM's and the CEL came on. When I pulled into work and let the car idle it was fluctuating between 1,000-1,500 RPM's.

I shut the car off and ran the codes and it was a P0505 which is for IAC. I bought a new one from Advance Auto Parts and put it on. Reset the ECU and started the car up and the CEL was off but car was still idling high at 1,000 RPM's. I then unplugged the IAC with and turned the idle screw two turns in (away from the firewall). I had to because that's the only way it would idle below 1,000 RPM's. With the idle screw all the way in the idle was at 750 without the IAC plugged back up. I shut the car off and reset the ECU then cut the car back on. It idled at 750-800 RPM's after that so I thought all was well until I took it for a test drive. Whenever I was coming to a stop and would push the clutch in the car would either drop down to 1,500 RPM's and stay there or drop to 1,000 RPM's and then jump back up to 1,500 RPM's. I was told by a friend that the TPS could be the culprit so I went out and spend MORE money and bought a brand new TPS. Put it on and still same issues. I don't have a multimeter so I can't check the voltage on the TPS but I've been meaning to find someone who does.

What's weird is that it doesn't do it every single time I push the clutch in. It does it much more when the car is warmed up. I can stop it from happening though. When I push the clutch in and see that it's going to happen I can tap the gas pedal and it will idle down to where it's supposed to be every time. It's like the idle is hanging. The IAC alone was $243 and the TPS was $48 so I'm almost $300 into it and still not fixed. I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. I just can't believe that cleaning the throttle body has made me run into this many problems with the car.

I had a friend tell me to pull the air intake off with the car running and plug inside the throttle body that's to the left with my finger and let him know if the idle changes. It didn't change at all. I then tried it with the IAC unplugged and it idled way down. I'm not sure what that means. Any help/advice on things to check or do would be GREATLY appreciated. Again, sorry for such a long post. I'm just wanting to get my Integra back to running how it was and be able to enjoy it again. I'm racking my brains trying to figure this out. Thanks so much!

B_Swapped93

Cliffs: cleaned TB now has high idle(1-1.5K)has also replaced TPS & IACV no luck.

So I would first recommend calibrating that TPS as you can't just slap one on and expect everything to be to spec. multimeter can be had for 10-15$ 2nd bleed the coolant system as you will have introduced air into it by taking off the iacv. then what happens if you were to put your bare hand completely over the throttle body bore ? will the car die almost instantly also is there enough slack on the throttle cable ?

BigFudge

Like I said it only does it sometimes and it's only when I push the clutch in while driving. How exactly do I bleed the coolant system? I've never done this before. I'll try putting my hand over the throttle body shortly and I'm not sure about the cable. How can I check? Sorry to sound like such a noob. Thanks for the help though.

B_Swapped93

jack the front of the car up heat on full squish the air out by squishing the lower rad hose fill with coolant as needed. the cable just make sure there is defection on it in other words it's not to tight to where as it could keep the tb plate open. as for the clutch when the car is moving and you press it in the idle should ne above that 800ish mark but when you come to a stop it should drop. and yes pressing the brake enough will raise the idle that's also normal.

BigFudge

I put my hand over the throttle body and the car started to cut off instantly. When I push the clutch in the idle stays at 1,300 rpm's or above until I come to a dead stop then it goes down to 1,000 and I can't get it to come down to 750 unless I tap the gas pedal. I just remember before all this it didn't do that at all. When I was rolling to a stop light I would push the clutch in and put it in neutral and coast to a stop and the car would instantly idle down to 750. So something is causing it to hang up. I will give the coolant system bleed a shot tomorrow. How will I know when all the air is out? No more bubbles?

B_Swapped93

yes but get to calibrating that TPS asap ! any CEL's ?

BigFudge

I was just at Auto Zone earlier and had them run a scan tool on my car. No CEL and no codes at all. Didn't think to check for a multimeter while I was there.

B_Swapped93

well it's hard to suggest stuff till you get it calibrated.

here's how http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...8C-*Sir-G-spec)

BigFudge

I drove my car to my parents house which is about 15-20 minutes away. The car did perfectly fine I mean it was like you couldn't tell there was a single thing wrong with it. Every time coming to a stop when pushing the clutch in it would idle itself straight down to 800rpm's and sit there until I was pulling into their driveway I pushed the clutch in and it idled down to 1,300 and stayed there until I hit the gas pedal. I then bled the cooling system out. No bubbles left whatsoever.

My buddy works at Auto Zone so I called him up and he told me to come by and we would read the voltage on the TPS. We used a paper clip to backprobe it and the TPS voltage was literally dead on. .5 at closed throttle and 4.5 WOT. When I tightened it down all the way it barely came off just a hair at .49 I haven't had a chance to mess with the throttle cable because it started raining but my buddy at Auto Zone has a Civic EX and he said his is a little looser than mine and suggested I loosen mine up some. The idle was hanging every time i would push the clutch in on my way home but of course the car was fully warmed up.

BigFudge

The car just seems to be acting funny when it's 100% in closed loop(full operating temperature) otherwise it seems to be doing okay.

95blackLS

I would make sure the butterfly is not sticking at all as well as adjusting the TPS. Check the throttle cable to make certain it's where it needs to be. (not kinked or off track) If the problem continues, I would replace the TB gasket because it is possible the TB cleaner could of damaged the TB gasket. I have this same issue with my DSM and I have changed everything (IM gasket, TB gaskets, FI O-rings, TPS, IAC) I have eliminated it down to a sticking throttle cable (replacing with non-cruse cable) or the TB itself is bad (BBK performance 20k miles) I know the Integra CC system is different but I wouldn't eliminate the possibility. I don't know how your 98 is set up, but on my 95 the TPS is integrated with the TB, so to replace the TPS you have to replace the whole TB.

B_Swapped93

most aftermarket ones have "slots" so you can slide it around for said adjustments, no the IAB's sticking won't do what he is describing. but I do agree with inspecting the TB gasket it's self.

BigFudge

I had the throttle body off the other day and throttle body gasket appeared to be in good shape. I'm going to loosen up the throttle cable a little if it ever stops raining and see what it does.

Wickedmenace

Sorry new to the forum and I need two post before I can start my own thread. I have searched every where and it seems like p0505 is very common but my issues are different from everyone that I have read. I just bought a 1998 Acura Integra GS-R and it has a P0505 code. I used a scanner from my work that tells me that I have zero vacuum leaks. I replaced my IACV and I still have the code. When my car is warm the car idles around 1k which I know is high still. After sitting for a while at a stop light I can hear the intake suck more air in and then a heart beat like sound begins. The movement is not noticeable on my dash tach but I hooked up a scanner that show is fluctuating from 1350-1430 rpms. Anyone have any ideas? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Wickedmenace

Sorry once again I need two posts.