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So I have decided to just wait till Winter break from school to tear apart my engine block and see what's up with it. It will also give me the time to install my new water pump/timing belt and relocate my oil pressure sender unit.
Haven't really done much updates online because I've been too lazy to take photos and to type. I"ve done a couple things to my car since fall 2015. The most major thing I have done was to do an ITR caliper/mini rotor/tsx brake pads conversion. I used Hawk TSX pads along with mini cooper rotors and ITR remani calipers from Rockauto. For the rear I used powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with akebono brake pads. The only reason I used drilled and slotted rotors was because Amazon accidentally sent me them instead of sending me ceramic brake pads and so I kept them lol. I took out my rep ITR lip from ebay because I didn't like how it flared out and I ordered myself a Bayson R lip, looks much better IMO.
I had found a 98 Spec JDM ITR header on craigslist for $180 with the original heat shields so I immediately jumped on it and bought it. Unfortunately the old hytech replica header I had was extremely long so my catalytic converter was only 1' long but I need a 2' long converter to use the ITR header so instead of extending my cat I just bought a blox testpipe all over again. VTEC pops really well with this set up but I'm apart of the reason that this world is dying . My dumb VTEC solenoid connector was cut off too short from the base so I couldn't re-solder the wire so I was forced to buy a new solenoid. I had bought one from VA JDM motors for $90 and I also bought the spark plug cover from the same engine since my old one was busted and warped from my dumbass over tightening the acorn nuts.
Now back to the oil dilemma, I notice that my oil pressure psi drops down to 10-12psi at idle after I engage VTEC (my car is usually at 20ish psi at idle). The car goes above 70psi at WOT no matter what so that may relieve my stress a little but my dipstick just magically loses all it's oil. If I pour about 1/4 of 1 qrt of oil, it's back in the middle of the dipstick again and my oil psi is back at 20ish. My friend had informed me that my car smokes when I'm speeding up so I immediately assumed the rings were done and the car is burning oil. I just checked my plugs today and they look fine aside from the fact that they look old.
Cylinder #1
Cylinder #2 (the thread has some oil residue but it wasn't much)
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
My car doesn't leak oil anymore, I had changed my oil pan gasket about 2 months ago and it still looks clean. I sprayed the VTEC solenoid side of my engine with brake cleaner last friday and it still looks clean after checking it today. The only sort of oil spillage I see is from my PCV filter on my valve cover that leaks down my intake manifold but I don't think that's where all my oil goes unless my car has a lot of built in crankcase pressure? I want to get rid of my Golden Eagle LS/V sandwich adapter and just run a steel braided line from the location of my oil pressure sensor . ( I had installed a cross fitting there that has 4 ports so I can move my oil pressure sender unit from the block to have it strapped down in my engine bay to prolong its life.) From the inside of my car it smells like burnt oil on very hot days which kind of makes me think that oil is being burned on the header of the car from behind the block, maybe the sandwich adapter is allowing a good seal on the oil filter?
Aside from all that **** above, I've been attempting to clean up my engine bay. I finally made all the reservoirs look extremely clean, even the ABS unit looks clean. I installed a new A\C belt since the old one squealed whenever the A/C was turned on and I'm awaiting a new Alternator belt as well. I ordered a new sunroof switch since mines was stuck but it turns out that I had removed the sunroof fuse long ago. (I also fixed the button by taking it apart ) I bought a new A-Pillar cover since I fucked my original one up when installed the oil pressure gauge (the tabs broke off so the cover wouldn't seat correctly). I even ordered a new hood prop clip. I want to order a new EVAP purge solenoid for ITR's (GS's have a different set-up) and new spark plugs for my car since these are old. Long awaited update, am I right?
Forgot that I never actually adjusted the valve clearence on the cylinder head so I will be doing that this friday. Hopefully it does restore missing HP. I'm going by the specs of a B16a2 engine. I ordered the special Honda tool from amazon for $12, bought a new valve cover gasket set along and feeler gauge set from my job for $27. <ubr >
I also bought some new NGK iridium sparks plugs and a fuse to finally fix my sunroof problem (had no fuse so it wouldn't open..)
I forgot all about my PCV system dilemma. Maybe that's why I have a problem with my oil, I have too much pressure built up in my block since that breather filter on my VC isn't doing ****. I can get a hard line and connect it to my air intake hose but my engine still would 't have any place to relieve pressure from the system since the block came without PCV box. I think I can still relieve the pressure in the block by using an old coolant pipe thingy and sticking it in a port on the back of the block and then hooking it up to a catchcan. Then running the other hard line hose from the intake to the outlet of the catchcan. I had a diagram for the PCV system on a B-series but I lost the picture.
Installed an oil catch can and fixed a leaking EVAP hose that would cause my gas MPG to be so crappy. Went with an allstar catch can, 3/8" NPT barb fitting to suck in the PCV vapors, 5/8" NPT 90 degree fitting for the oil drain back. I'll be having to replace my oil more frequently since the oil will be contaminated with all the crap that is in the PCV system but I perfer that better than being low on oil. Oil PSI at idle is at 18-20psi and after hitting VTEC, it drops down to 10-12psi. I don't know if that's normal or not. During the higher RPMS such as 5k, oil PSI stays at about 80 - Even while hitting VTEC. I have no room in my engine bay to properly secure my catch can so I will be looking at a battery relocatiom soon. <br >
8-10 at idle is normal psi for oil. If I recall part throttle was always around 40ish and when wot 70-80ish. It's been a while since I had an oil pressure gauge in my car but I recall it being something like that. Keep an eye on your oil, a catch can simply prevents pressure from building up in your car and typically you don't benefit much n/a. It is actually more a mod you do when boosted. In fact if you see oil vapor/mist coming out of your catch can while the car is running while at idle odds are your rings are on their last legs or your valve seals. All 3 times my rings were end of life vapor started to breath out of the filter then shortly after BOOM, every time.
8-10 at idle is normal psi for oil. If I recall part throttle was always around 40ish and when wot 70-80ish. It's been a while since I had an oil pressure gauge in my car but I recall it being something like that. Keep an eye on your oil, a catch can simply prevents pressure from building up in your car and typically you don't benefit much n/a. It is actually more a mod you do when boosted. In fact if you see oil vapor/mist coming out of your catch can while the car is running while at idle odds are your rings are on their last legs or your valve seals. All 3 times my rings were end of life vapor started to breath out of the filter then shortly after BOOM, every time.
So far I see no vapors coming out of the can itself when at idle. I figured the can would help since a stock VTEC block comes with a catchcan/drainback and my LSV didn't have one back then.
11-06-2015, 06:49 PM
Re: HRubss 1997 DC4 build
. My dumb VTEC solenoid connector was cut off too short from the base so I couldn't re-solder the wire so I was forced to buy a new solenoid. I had bought one from VA JDM motors for $90 and I also bought the spark plug cover from the same engine since my old one was busted and warped from my dumbass over tightening the acorn nuts. 
) I bought a new A-Pillar cover since I fucked my original one up when installed the oil pressure gauge (the tabs broke off so the cover wouldn't seat correctly). I even ordered a new hood prop clip. I want to order a new EVAP purge solenoid for ITR's (GS's have a different set-up) and new spark plugs for my car since these are old. Long awaited update, am I right? 
