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Anyways, let me get some input here.
I'm contemplating on whether I should turbocharge my car... I want to make about 200-250whp, nothing too extreme so I can keep my car a DD. It would be a slow build just to buy all the parts and gain much more knowledge on forced induction.
you can turbo your car for around 3k or a bit less if you're buying used, mind you mine is WAY over that but I've done extra stuff.
how much do you wan to spend...boost is addicting you always want more! trust me my theory is "buy it once" I have overkill parts but I'm safe into the 500+ hp range should I sleeve it next year or in the summer. there is a fair amount of misc stuff that adds up and it is time consuming my build thread outlines that well.
you can turbo your car for around 3k or a bit less if you're buying used, mind you mine is WAY over that but I've done extra stuff.
how much do you wan to spend...boost is addicting you always want more! trust me my theory is "buy it once" I have overkill parts but I'm safe into the 500+ hp range should I sleeve it next year or in the summer. there is a fair amount of misc stuff that adds up and it is time consuming my build thread outlines that well.
I've heard. I want to make my parts safe up to 400HP because I'm planning for a mild 250WHP. I don't plan on sleeving because that seems like too much just for my build so I think I want to go with the Cylinder Support System because it seems safe and pretty cheap for the reliability. $296 for a B-series block and a little more for the shipping beats $1000+ for sleeveing anyday.
This will be a pretty slow turbo build because I'm going to have a budget. Clubintegra pursuaded me into getting a B18C1 turbo instead of a LSv that I was originally planning.
you don't need a CSS for under 400whp but I guess why not, just leave it stock like I said 250whp is nothing for a gsr. just don't cheap out, if you don't want to pay retail look for it used most things are floating around.
you don't need a CSS for under 400whp but I guess why not, just leave it stock like I said 250whp is nothing for a gsr. just don't cheap out, if you don't want to pay retail look for it used most things are floating around.
Exactly what I was thinking, that's why it's going to be a slow build. Not exactly going to buy the parts from retail unless I really need them when my deadline is closing in on me but I'm going to make sure the used parts are genuine parts, not fake ****. Going to scavenger through my local craigslists and forums.
Haven't been here in the longest once again. I finally got my hood resprayed and also swapped front bumpers, currently have a 98-01 front end. Finally got an ITR sway bar. Replaced my cam plug, cam oil seals, valve cover gasket, cam oil seals and my distributor to stop this oil leak I have had for the longest. Changed my oil and switched from royal purple synthetic oil to Castrol synthetic, the performance one.
Thinking about getting a Comptech Icebox because the AEM sucks in the summer. I've heard good reviews for it but I was wondering if my AEM tube would fit? I kind of doubt it but It be much easier than getting my old OEM one from my brother.
**** it, it looked too good so I bought it and a OEM ITR Intake tube. Spent about ~$310. Ordered the Icebox itself, the filter (off of the Comptech website) and the ITR tube with the ring thingy inside off of AcuraOEMparts.com. I saved more money doing this instead of ordering the entire Comptech Air induction kit AND icebox.
I just bought an OEM ITR wing from a local Japanese imported shop for $80 and it's currently getting paint matched to my cars color. I also bought an ITR cluster for $80. Loving these things so far.
Another big update that will be leaving me poor soon. I bought some Recaro seats, ITR shift ****, ITR shift boot, ITR e-Brake thingy, and the guy threw in some ITR floor mats for the purchase of my Recaro seats. Holy ****, people weren't lying when they said that the seats hug you. I feel like I can do endless sharp turns without doubting myself. I am going to purchase an SRS ITR steering wheel from them (importer shop) this weekend and that should be the last thing I will be buying for my car this month other than necessities. I also finally got around to polishing my blades. Enjoy the iphone 6 quality photos
Thanks man, I was planning on lowering it but I guess the interior came first.. I was debating whether to get a Type R suspension because it's a little lower than stock and it's handling is amazing but unfortunately the rear coilovers will have to use the stock ITR LCA and I would have to get rid of my shiny F7 LCA..
Really don't get on here as often anymore..or at all. Had a ton of updates since my last post.
-Lowered the car with some Koni/ground control's
-Installed a new oil pressure gauge (still losing oil but have no signs of it burning)
-Some new 195/55/15 Falken Ziex 329 tires for my GSR blades
-Installed a new magnaflow high flow catalytic converter +passed emissions for two more years
-LS trans started grinding horribly so I bought and installed an JDM ITR trans (4.4 FD) with an OE exedy clutch replacement kit and ACT streelite flywheel.
Going to be installing a new Gates water pump kit I ordered long ago soon. Alas, I'm losing interest in the car since I've been having to dump money on it on things I didn't even want to buy (Main reason was to get it pass emissions since it is a frankenstein motor and OBD2). I've been debating whether I wanted to trade it for a RWD car, would love to keep it and get it both but #collegetuition. What should I do Honda-tech with my car, trade or keep it, what mods should I do next? You guys are more responsive than Clubintegra.
If you REALLY enjoy it keep it for now, but leave it "as is", school is not cheap and mod after mod digs a very deep hole. Coming from someone who went all out in under 6 months with a very popular build thread.... it's not worth it at all, it would have been the most fun if I had just left it alone and never touched it. Having a nice newer vehicle is much more fun not to discourage you but rather help you, I lost well over $8,000 on just that "bswapped's 2nd build" tegg. You're my age enjoy it but start saving for a rainy day I can't tell you how much regret I have from the past 2 years of car building funneling all my money. Don't get me wrong I not putting you/your car down but if it's becoming a money pit... bail and get a "boring car" I said that about my TSX but it's quickly taken over my trucks spot.
My third plan was to just ride it out till it dies on me, I know it's dying because my oil just disappears on me hence why I got an oil pressure guage, I notice that my oil PSI drops to around 8 PSI and when I go to check my oil level, dipstick looks dry. I keep 1qrt of oil on me and I did add some of that oil addative crap that swears it will stop leaks/burn but I still have yet to see if it works. It does leak from my oil pan drain bolt (needs a new washer) and from the oil pressure sensor but at this point, they weren't even affecting the car at all. Before those two leaks, I had the engine clean, no leaks, no smoke coming from the tailpipe but STILL was losing oil, hell, even my spark plugs looked fine. My best guess would have to be the oil rings aren't seated correctly since when I did the conversion, I took the adivse of my auto tech instructor and didn't hone the cylinder or because I used some cheap rockauto piston rings.
Anyways, I guess I'll just take your advise and mix it with my third plan. Not spend anymore money than I should have to on it and just ride it out till it either dies of oil starvation or a spun rod bearing. I do also want to go back and fix up a couple of half-assed mods I've done such as wiring up that oil pressure gauge and some weird vacuum noise my car produces from a DIY catch can I made, maybe it'll spark my interest into it again.
Did not realized that I actually have done much more to my car than my last updated. I got myself an SRS JDM ITR steering wheel shortly after buy the Recaros along with a **** ton of carbon fiber dipped ITR dash pieces. I did have an aftermarket alarm system installed (Viper w/ remote start) professionally since I never mess with electrical things.
I want to create my own breather chamber to relieve crankcase pressure built up in the engine, the B18b1 block did not come with a factory breather chamber. I'm thinking of buying one of those Prelude oil cooler joints to install in place of my blocks freeze plugs and have a vacuum hose going into it but the issue with that is that it will have too much vacuum at all times for it's own good so I want fabricate some sort of way to prevent that. For the time being, I installed one of those shitty breather filters on the valve cover to just ventilate the pressure out since I have no proper PCV system. I plan to do this all by next Sunday since I'm also going to be removing the oil pressure sender unit off of the block and install an oil feed line from the block to the sender unit, this will all require me to remove my intake manifold so I will have much more access to the back of the engine block.
There was a thread the other day about a guy who had an oil disappearing issue with his LSVTEC setup that had great compression numbers, turned out he forgot to block off an oil passage in the head...
Might be worth checking if you don't know for sure if it got done properly.
Fortunately, the guy I bought the cylinder head from had already done a LSV conversion with it so it had the oil passage blocked off already. What I do realize was that the camshaft journals were slightly scratched up as if they weren't lubricated correcly, possible starved of oil. Maybe the whole cylinder head had just had issues with oil?
Pulled out the plugs again to check to see if their was any sign of oil consumption going on in the combustion chamber. After 3-4 weeks of driving and the last time I added oil, I was low on oil again. Added about 2.2 qrts and it was at the full mark again.
Cylinder #1
Cylinder #2
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
And once again, they all look fine. Some are a little crusty but that was because my car was overheating and running rich at one point but thats taken care of now. I did notice that the oil pan gasket was leaking and so was the distributor o-ring. I replaced the o-ring on the spot and I'm probably going to hold off on the oil pan gasket for a bit. They contributed to my missing oil but I seriously doubt those two were the reason why my engine has been losing so much oil. I might just go ahead and buy a B20 block and swap every thing over from my current engine and make everything is perfect before swapping it in to my car.
Since your compression numbers are so high I doubt that the block is the issue...since somebody else did the LSVTEC conversion on the head I'd look at that first to make sure everything was done properly.
Hm, I do remember installing the oil plug but I think I shoved it down and not have it sitting flush on the cylinder head. I don't think that's where 2.7qrts of oil goes to. I used a cosmetic "lsvtec" headgasket and I just read somewhere that they tend to leak (I don't know how). I think I'm going to order myself a new oil pan gasket and just take the engine apart to inspect the cylinder head once again. If that doesn't work, I'm just going to swap a B20 non-vtec and call it a day.
12-20-2014, 08:10 PM
Re: HRubss 1997 DC4 build
