ESP.net

So here is the story.... fuse #42 for horn in engine bay blown, replaced. I have done a bit of looking on past threads



I re hooked up my srs today in my 95 gsr dc2. Both air bags are in. No SRS light on. I thought maybe SRS would effect horn and cruise control which dont work still. I would think if the reel was damaged SRS light would be on after re installing it.



So I have been tracing this down. Horn clicks. Replaced Horn Relay still clicks and no horn. Horn (s) are hooked up it has 2 horns. I tested both horns and work. Voltage is constant 12v to both and 14v when car is running to both for the postive wire on each horn. The second one was spliced into from the OEM first horn.



Both Brake Sensors and Clutch are connected. Brake lights work. Integra Type R wing is installed the OEM 3rd light wiring is tucked into the car trunk... could this maybe be the issue for both horn and cruise no working?



Could the second horn that was added on be causing an issue?

Something causing a short somehwere?

fcm

Are you saying you can hear the horn relay "click" when you press the horn button but horn does not sound?

If so, try another relay, if still nothing, check continuity of the output lead from the relay, [blue/red] to the horn(s), check to see if the relay has a good ground input. 94

ESP.net

Horn makes clicking noise... i also replaced relay with new one. Same issue. I then spent the time to make sure the old relay worked hooking it to a battery and horn outside of the car. Works like it should.

If i use 12v side of the pinout (left side if looking at the prongs) of the horn clip where power is coming out and ground the horn it will beep without the switch, constant beep.

Now the 2nd horn I have connected up has 12v constant power on the opposite side of the pinout as the first. Does that matter?

ESP.net

Ground pinout on horn one to ground pinout on horn 2 plug there is no contenuity so seems like this is a ground issue.

fcm

It makes no diff. what terminal is ground and what terminal is power.

Both horns should have constant power, [hot at all times] on one of the terminals, the relay supplies the ground.

With the horns plugged in, supply a ground directly to the ground terminal on the horn, [use a jumper lead connected the the batt. neg.(-) post or chassis ground point].

If horn works, the problem is either a continuity, [connection] issue of the lead running from the horn relay to the horn, or the relay is not getting a constant ground input.

ESP.net

Thanks for the help FCM.

Connected wire to back of relay Blue/Green, Ground used it as ground to the horn and positive from the horn wire on the plug up front to the horn. Press horn switch and beeps like it should.

So it is the ground issue somewhere from the back of the Horn Relay to the front of the car and the horn plug.

I cut the horn connector off little ways up on the passenger side. Did away with all second horn wiring. Still not working so must be further up.

Worse case scenario if I can't trace this wire issue down is to cut the Blue/Green wire off the Horn Relay and run up to the front a new horn wire. However I wonder if this will work to fix the cruise control issue or only be a bandaid to the horn and horn only.

I also took my ITR wing off to trouble shoot the 3rd brake light, took plastic off in trunk lid and un did the 3rd brake light/spoiler connection and wrapped up the connector just incase.
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Side Note on cruise control my car wont start unless clutch is engaged so switch is good.

I am trying to figure out on the Cruise Control in the bay 4 wires what wire is connected to the horn as well so I can trouble shoot that as well or would I need to trouble shoot the brain of the cruise control?

fcm

The CC circuit and horn circuits are not connected.

The blue/green is the "trigger" for the relay it runs from the horn button(s) to the relay.
The blue/red is the lead that runs from the horn relay to the horn(s), the relay supplies the ground for the horn.
the black lead at the horn relay is the ground input to the relay.

The blue/red at the horn relay is the one you need to supply a ground to too see if it has continuity to the horn(s).

There is actually a second "clutch" switch for the CC, it supplies a ground to the CC unit as long as clutch is not stepped on, it is the lower of the two switches.

Make sure this switch is working.

The CC unit also has a ground, black make sure it is good.

It looks like all the above grounds are grounded at the left kick panel. 94

ESP.net

Continuity test from back of relay blue/red to blue red up at the horn wire (grnd) no continuity somewhere from back relay to up front it is broken. Which unfortunately think i may know. Most likey where the main harness for dash behind console. Which in that case probably wont be take harness apart there or taking out the dash. Which I will be running a new wire most likely, full length or to where the issue i think is...

Now this ground wire once repaired may also fix the cruise control issue? Since it also uses this ground wire?

Both switches on clutch pedal are there and connected. I will check into if they are working. I will have my Honda Tech. look at it tom.

fcm

The blue/red has nothing to do with the CC, it only runs from the horn relay to the horns.

The ground(s) that may be common or the ones grounded at the drivers kick panel, the relay, [input] is grounded there and so is the CC. 94

ESP.net

FCM thanks for all the help.

Did quite a bit of tracing and trouble shooting, sure enough was a easy thing some hack that did the alarm install cut the blue/red wire a bit off the horn relay. Sure enough hooked back up and working horns. Activated Cruise Control and hit 30 mph sure enough light turned on... problem solved.

jlhao