dmullinax96

93 eg8/94 gsr swap OBDI, p28 ecu.

my current problem is basically limp mode. EDIT: throwing code 21- Variable Valve Timing and Valve lift solenoid (VTEC solenoid). but would that cause all this?? rev limit at 4k..? Doubt it......


is not revving above around 3500, and if you rev it dies out. does not sound right. it is like it is stumbling when running. idle sounds okay, but not normal.

have changed plugs and wires, tried another coil, a whole different distributor, and had the chip in the ecu checked. the car has been running fine for the past 6 months since the last time i had trouble, which turned out to be a leaking fpr. and fine before that for 3 months or so. i know it is not something wired wrong, or not wired up. tried pulling injector plugs and there doesn't seem to be a bad injector. but there is an exhaust leak, and the car is running so rich that it burned our eyes while trying to test them.

the last work done on the car by me was oil change a few weeks ago. also had some exhaust work done right after that, and they put in a new o2 bung, it is still intact and wired up.

replaced map and tps, map made it a hair better, and tps was worse. my tps is good. checked wire connections, and vaccuum lines. have not found anything loose or missing.

if anyone has any advice please help me out, car is 93 eg8 with chipped p28, yes just got chip checked and reburned. no difference.. no idea where to turn, MAYBE bad ecu? doubt it though, but anyone with advice please help.

and YES i've searched, but all the threads i've found have NO answers.. thanks!

dmullinax96

Seems as if thats what everyone says.. thanks though!!

HondaPartsHero

Why is your check engine on? Fix that first. Did you recalibrate your TPS when you replaced it?

el crapitan

check resistance of the solenoid. should be around 17 ohms. replace as needed

SiTR

So its throwing a code 21 and youve basically checked all but what its throwing. Clean out the screen in the v tec solenoid first and if it continues try swapping out the solenoid. Make sure all wiring to and from the solenoid are still intact and have no brakes in the wirres. At least to try and eliminatethe code 21. When you replaced the tps did you adjust the new one?

dmullinax96

Well, replaced solenoid. No difference. Chased the wires back under the dash to the ecu, found a break in the orange wires (vtec wires) soldered it up. CEL is now gone. But, bad news is car won't hardly start anymore. And if it does it dies a few seconds after.. i'm almost to the point of giving up. anyone have anymore ideas? i'm out..

Whiterice-gsr

try a different ecu, see if u can get a p72 in there and see what happens i went through this once and my ecu was actually blown.

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

Take it in to a shop and pay for a diagnosis test. It should cost around $50.

el crapitan

have you rechecked the codes?

Honda_SiR-G

check your timing...make sure your tdc and your timing belt is tight

dmullinax96

Next thing i'm trying is ecu i guess. Now it's throwing code 22, 21 is gone. Must be a short there somewhere too.. and really? I thought most shops won't even touch cars with motor swaps in them. Timing will be checked soon too

thanks for all the help guys!

olddohc

iTrader: (116)

money is money. if the shops knows what they are doing they should be more than happy to help you. plus half the time swaps look like they were meant to be there so you cant even tell its from an integra

OhGeeRize

im having the same problem right now on my b20v...
i might think it the dizzy

fcm

What is your fuel pressure, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? 94

olddohc

iTrader: (116)

OP said he already changed the dizzy that didnt help

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Clean the screen on the VTEC solenoid. Since GSR VTEC is at about 4400 RPM, a clogged screen would affect it. I had that issue with my prelude not revving past VTEC engagement RPM. Cleaning the screen and resetting the ECU solved it.

dmullinax96

Took screen off, cleaned it real good as well as the rest of the solenoid. No difference. I guess a clogged fuel filter is worth looking at, well really anything is. Not entirely sure what the fuel pressures at, as it wont start right now. But I think at idle its at 53, wot 60. I have a AEM fuel rail, AEM fpr with gauge. I had a NRG regulator, but it went out about 6 months ago and I replaced it with the aem one. No problems with it so far.

dmullinax96

thanks for all the help guys, keep it coming!!

dmullinax96

i take that back, i would think the fuel filters a possibility, but when it did run it ran very rich.. but I can still check it out

fcm

You should still get fuel pressure, even if engine is not running, but untill it is running you will not be able to tell what it is when running.

If your running rich, check the ECT sensor, a bad sensor would result in a rich A/F ratio once engine is warmed up, although it would not prevent engine start. 94

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The ECT can prevent the engine from starting. An unplugged or bad ECT means a RIDICULOUS amount of fuel being sprayed. On my first B series swap when I was a child, we mixed the ECT plug up with the VTEC solenoid plug. This resulted in a non-start because of richness.

Once it does start, however, it won't prevent the car from going above ~4000RPM and result in throwing a VTEC code...unless the OP switched those two plugs for some reason?

dmullinax96

cleared all codes... same thing.. any more advice on something i hadn't tried....thanks

fcm

With all the starting attempts you may have, [probably have] "washed" the cylinders, if the plugs are "wet" with gas after trying to start the engine, we know the injectors are pulsing and there is fuel, lots of fuel from unsuccessful start attempts will "wash" the cylinders, effectively drop compression to a point engine will not start, so low compression, washed and flooded cylinders, makes for very hard on no starting.

Even if it is not the problem, it is worth eliminating it as the possibility, pull all the spark plugs and let the cylinders "air out" over night, put a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder, crank engine a few times without turning ign. on, [bypass jump] or unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay and the distributor and crank it with the key.

Reinstall plugs, cross your fingers, start the car, GL.

B serious, although switching sensor plugs will almost always result in a no start, [depending on sensors switched] but I have yet to run into a Honda/Acura that would not start, [when cold] because it had the ECT sensor either unplugged, was defective, had shorted leads, hard or no starting when warm yes, run like crap once warm yes, get lousy mileage yes.

No starting because of an ECT sensor problem is most likely because of washing and flooding, even though the ECT sensor caused it.

We will know if that is the OPs problem if he tries the "fix", if not it eliminates it as a problem, don't forget, you need fuel, spark and compression. 94

dmullinax96

No more codes, all codes are fixed, STILL won't hardly start. Took plugs out and put oil down cylinders over night, started today and it started up. New plugs tho, started up and idles at like 300, won't rev past 2k and if you rev it it dies instead of dropping back down to idle...pretty sure its not in limp mode as it won't even reach 2k rpm's

Whiterice-gsr

have u tried a different ecu?