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Keep up the good work. Does thecar have the original hood? It should say on there the right spark plugs and the year of the integra. Obd1 integras da9s are 92-93, the distributor plugs are gray and square, there is no resistor box, the intake manifold is blocked off in the middle, I think I have a pic of it. But pretty much just look at your ecu, if youturn your ignition on and you see the red light turn on and off, then your obd0.
Not sure if it is the original hood. There is no sticker anyway. I know it is a '91 car, but the guy I got it from possibly put a '92-93 engine in it. OK I guess OBD 0, there is a red LED down low in front of the shifter, unless that is an add-on. OK, I will look at the distributor plugs... you mean the wire harness connectors right?
Today, the car wouldn't crank at all. Looked under the hood, everything seemed fine, then tried again, and it worked. I haven't checked the clutch switch position. I remember on the Civics the bumper on the pedal can come off so the switch doesn't get pressed, or sometimes it needs to be adjusted.
The led im reffering to is on the ecu. Under the passenger side carpet. If your ecu flashes a red light, like when your checking for codes like in the 88-91 civics, then your teg is obd0. The obd1 ecu doesnt have that led light, instead you check codes by jumping this connector on the passenger side kick panel, and the "check engine light" on your cluster flashes.
The led im reffering to is on the ecu. Under the passenger side carpet. If your ecu flashes a red light, like when your checking for codes like in the 88-91 civics, then your teg is obd0. The obd1 ecu doesnt have that led light, instead you check codes by jumping this connector on the passenger side kick panel, and the "check engine light" on your cluster flashes.
Well, the non-starting was just a loose positive battery connection. I couldn't tighten it too well, but I did the best I could. Maybe it wasn't good enough because I drove a few hundred miles and the battery light started coming on and off then it stalled. So I put some wire between the post and positive rubg to shim it, then i drove it around to charge it a bit. The battery light kept coming on and off, so I had Autozone try to test it. First it said the battery was good, but when I started it for the next part of the test, their tool said the battery went from like 80 to 40% charge, and it was too low to test the alternator. So, it could be the connection still, so I got a proper shim for the positive post and cleaned it up, and also cleaned the negative and frame ground contacts.
So, we will see how that goes. Hey does this car usually have a wire with a 20A fuse on it? There is a crimped wire connection that is kind of iffy. Here's a pic.
Here's under my hood, the hood stick seems like it is off or the wrong one. The radiator overflow hose seems misrouted. I tried to fix it. How's yours routed?
Ok the battery light was still coming on. So I am pulling the alternator. Except the upper bolt is really stuck. There is not much space for wrenches to swing either. Socket was too big. But I need to get the alternator bench tested.
Easiest was in my opinion is to pull the driver side axle and get at it from the bottom.
Sorry, probably not what you wanted to hear.
OK, I was reading about that. No, that doesn't sound fun.
Right now I'm having trouble busting the upper nut loose. A closed end 12mm 6 point is starting to strip it. My sockets are too fat too get on the nut,even with a non-deep socket.
So, yesterday after I got a new battery , the connections seemed clean and tight, because I had fixed them up, but the battery light was still coming on. This was after I cleaned and made nice and tight the battery and ground connections.
But, it was only coming on at low RPMs like at stop lights. When I revved I got the light to go out.
Right after I got a new battery, same thing, so at Autozone I had them do an in car test. It failed the regulator test upon start. It read 12V after start and only 80% charged.
I removed the alternator and had it bench tested. It passed. That leaves connections to alternator, battery, and ground.
The connector to the alternator, does yours have a bunch of white grease on it?
WAIT NOT FIXED. Drove 60 miles today, battery light coming on below 2500 RPM. Starting own thread for this. Maybe after a while alternator has an issue? Then if it sits and is bench tested, it's OK?
Try using a different alternator see if it goes away. One time, my alternator went bad from just sitting out over night, had an internal shortage. It kept blowing my battery fuse.
Well, broke down right after my last post. The dash got dimmer and dimmer anf the cat died. I was over it, so I got another alternator. Seems fine now.
However, I had to get a '92 alternator. The one I pulled out had a through hole for the top bolt. But the '91 had threads in the top hole.
The guy I bought it from said he swapped the motor, so it is possibly a '92-'93 B18A1.
Also, can anyone tell from the pic below of the intake manifold the year?
Hard to tell from Your pic what year manifold it is. On the 92-93 manifolds, next to the dashpot it will be sealed up. On the 90-91 manifolds it will have some nipple inlets for vacuum lines.
08-05-2015, 07:49 AM
Re: Got a 91 Integra LS 3 door... questions
