dazebreak

I got this car recently, and it needs a little work. I'm used to working on 90's Civics, so it shouldn't be too much different.

The guy I got it from said he swapped the engine with a "60k" engine, but I don't really know if that's true. The ID is a B18A1. Is there a way to tell if it is a 90-91 or a 92-93 ?

Also, the AC isn't cold, but the light is on for the button, and the compressor belt is running. I know it is older AC, but is there and adapter kit so you can use those recharge cans from the auto parts store?

I can do tune-ups myself, so I changed the oil. I also ordered the air filter, fuel filter, plugs, and wires. Then I was going to check timing and idle. Anything else recommended to check and fix? Oil leaks I guess, eh?

Thanks...

billabongrob

iTrader: (1)

Gonna tell you, you'd be hard pressed to find a b18a1 with 60k. Sorry, can't be of much help on this one. If charge the ac and see if it holds.

dazebreak

If anyone has a link to the Helms, PM me, thanks. Also, what kind of extensions do I need to change all 3 drive belts?

Ef4doorwagon

Buy an ac thermometer and check whats the coldest the vents get. See if the fan cycles on and off. I recharged my integras ac with 134, just buy the retrofit plugs, like 11$ from walmart. Mine blows about 45-50 out the vents.
Oh and the 92-93 b18a1 are better because of the intake cam, intake manifold and ecu. The blocks are the same.

billabongrob

iTrader: (1)

Regarding the manuals, you can find the service manuals online. Google Honda hookup manuals.

Good luck!

daboy155

What are your plans and how many miles on the body. Id flush all the fluids cause chances are its been a very long time. Check your compression while your at it ao you know what to expect

dazebreak

Great, thanks! Is there a way to easily ID the intake manifold?

dazebreak

Honda Hookup has a '93 and an '89 service manual, which is closest?

dazebreak

Good idea. I changed the oil, and I plan to bleed the brakes. I guess that leaves the MT oil, clutch fluid, and PS fluid. My plans are to make it reliable for DD or road trips. The body has 170k.

dazebreak

I think the hatch might leak a little. I guess it is one of the seals...

dazebreak

The drive belts (alternator, PS, AC) are ragged. I was thinking of just going to Autozone for those, unless OEM is highly recommended for some reason.

dazebreak

Little rust on the top edge above the windshield.

daboy155

Don't forget about the coolant, my car had 250+ on the body when I got it and the coolant literally looked like oil(but there was no oil in it) cause it was so gunked up.

billabongrob

iTrader: (1)

93 would be the closest. Some of the emissions stuff may be a little different, but not far off. 89 will be way different.

wunfstgsr

You should be able to use a recharge AC can from the auto store to get the AC cold again sometimes it takes two cans.

If its manual flush the trans fluid its easy and refill with oem MTF, i use the speed sensor on top of the trans and remove it to fill the trans with the new fluid it makes it much easier.

dazebreak

Right!

dazebreak

Thanks! True, I've also used a hose stuck on a funnel to the fill hole so I can fill from above that way.

dazebreak

DAMN! My passenger window would not roll up or down. At first it did a little, then stopped. So I got a regulator motor. But it still won't work! The fuse looks good. I tried the driver switch and the passenger switch (for the passenger window). OK, there is the window lock switch, which way do I need to flip it? So no red is showing? Now, with the lockout switch, should I still be able to use the driver side switch that controls the passenger window? Also, there are 4 wires going to the passenger switch. I guess I need to break out the meter and test some voltages....

dazebreak

OK, I fixed my passenger window. The problem was a loose and corroded connector to the driver's side switch assembly! The driver's side worked fine, so that threw me off until I started testing voltages. Anyway, the window rolls up and down now, but it goes slower during one part of the going up or down, if that makes sense. Maybe I need to add grease or back off the felts a bit. I did swap the original motor back instead of the refurbished one I bought.

The wiring diagrams I downloaded helped!

dazebreak

Yeah, the SM says only use the R12 but, F-it, I got the retrofit kit and a large can from Wal-Mart and it worked! There was a hissing near the compressor after recharge, so hopefully it isn't a slow leak! Autozone doesn't seem to carry the retrofit kit. Thanks again!

dazebreak

OK, the 93 service manual said use NGK ZFR-5F11 plugs, but on RockAuto, it said NGK BCPR5E-11 were OEM. So, maybe it is because the service manual I have is a '93? I'm still wondering and trying to find out how to ID from the outside if the engine in my car is a 90-91 or 92-93. I understand the intake manifold might be different, but I need a photo of the difference or something.

1990IntegraLS

It is possible he got one of those JDM imports from Japan. I've looked at those, but my '90 at 168k is running perfect. I may get one myself at some point.

Ef4doorwagon

Keep up the good work. Does thecar have the original hood? It should say on there the right spark plugs and the year of the integra. Obd1 integras da9s are 92-93, the distributor plugs are gray and square, there is no resistor box, the intake manifold is blocked off in the middle, I think I have a pic of it. But pretty much just look at your ecu, if youturn your ignition on and you see the red light turn on and off, then your obd0.

posinker

I had issues on my '01 with the passenger window rolling slower in a spot. It also squeaked horribly. After removing the door panel and spraying the tracks with some white lithium grease, the window travels much smoother and faster.

billabongrob

iTrader: (1)

B18A1 was never in Japan.