EDIT: now that i am done with this project, i created these lists and instructions:
my car is a 2000 LS
2 wheel bearings (i used timken 510030)
2 axle nuts (W0133-1642540)
2 castle nuts (90363-SF1-000)
2 cotter pins
2 jack stands
lug nut wrench
FWD wheel bearing removal tool kit
impact socket that fits long bolt in bearing kit (1 1/8" if harbor freight)
wrench that fits long nut in bearing kit (1 1/4" if harbor freight)
32mm impact socket
retaining clip pliers
needle nose pliers
BFH, 4lb deadblow is a good one
ODDS AND ENDS I ENJOY
bungee cords to hold brake calipers up up and away
WD40 or other penetrating oil
c clamp for brake reinstall
PART 1: GET YOUR NUTS OFF
1. Set your emergency brake and block a rear wheel. Break the lug nuts on both your front wheels and put the car up on jack stands using the tabs behind the front wheels.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Use a chisel to bend the axle nuts out of the indentation on the axles. They will not spin free until you remove this indentation.
4. Apply the brake pedal, and use a 32mm impact socket to remove the axle nuts with an impact wrench.
5. Remove the brake calipers and secure them up and out of the way. Remove the brake rotors.
PART 2: FREE THE KNUCKLES
1. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the lower ball joint This is the ball joint at 6 o'clock when looking at the knuckle/wheel hub assembly, or bolt C in the picture below.
2. Remove the 17mm castle nut.
3. Break the lower control arm free from the ball joint and knuckle. Even though the castle nut is removed, these parts are going to be seized together way tighter than you can imagine. Your options are the tried and true we todd method (search youtube.com for "honda painless ball joint removal" for a video), a pickle fork, or some other ball joint separator tool.
4. Use two 17mm wrenches to loosen and remove the long bolt holding the suspension fork to the lower control arm. This is bolt B here:
5. Lift the wheel assembly up so the ball joint stud clears the lower control arm. Take care of the axle as it should slide and fall out of the wheel hub at this point. Inspect the rubber boot for damage and leaks. Wrap it in a rag to protect it from the lower control arm where it will lay and the knuckle that now moves freely. Here's a picture of one of my axles that was leaking grease (lower right):
PART 3: PULL THOSE BEARINGS
1. Look at the back of your knuckle and identify the difference between the hub at the very center and the bearing's inner race outside of that.
2. Attach your bearing removal kit from the rear, using a disc (or just the washer if you have the harbor freight kit like me) that is just smaller than the hub and a washer. Scroll up to my "greasy axle" picture to see my setup ready for the next step.
3. Beat the head of your bearing kit's long bolt with your BFH until the wheel hub falls out the front of the knuckle. Don't be shy, this part is the most fun of the whole job.
4. When the hub is removed, you will see the the retaining clip or "c clip" holding the bearing in the knuckle. Soak this in WD40. Tap it lightly with a hammer or punch the whole way around to break up some of the rust. Use retaining clip pliers to remove it from the knuckle.
5. Attach your bearing tool to the wheel assembly again, using the cylinder cup on the front to catch the bearing, and a disc that is just smaller than the bearing outer race in the back.
6. Put a wrench on the long nut on the rear of your bearing tool, and position it so it wedges against the knuckle or with against the ground/floor with a tube over the end.
7. Use your impact wrench to tighten the bearing tool assembly, squeezing the bearing out the front of the knuckle.
PART 4: NEW PARTS GOING IN
1. Figure out which way your new bearings go in. If you have rubber on one side and steel on the other, the rubber stays out.
2. Set up your bearing tool with a disc on the back that is bigger than the hole, and a disc on the front that will push on the outer race of the bearing.
3. Position your wrench on the long nut behind the knuckle and hold it with your free hand. You don't need to wedge it against anything to push the new bearing in.
4. Tighten the bearing tool rig to push the bearing into place. It is not possible to push the bearing too far. In fact, you want to be sure your impact wrench whines a little when the bearing reaches the back of the slot. This ensures you have enough space in front of the bearing for the retaining clip.
5. Clean the retaining clips and smooth their surfaces with sandpaper before reinserting them. Be sure they seat completely in their grooves.
6. Remove the old bearing inner races from your wheel hubs if they are still stuck in place. This is very likely. I tried to cut grooves with a dremel and use a puller as suggested and pictured here Wheel Bearing replacement using the hub tamer(no press needed)
(great thread for same project), but gave up and had a shop remove them for $10.
7. Press the hubs into the wheel assembly using a disc in the rear that is just smaller than the bearing inner race.
8. Put everything back together using new castle nuts, new cotter pins and new axle nuts. Dent the axle nuts into the grooves in the axles just like they were when you found them.
* Read the rest of this thread for more tips and pictures.
* The lower control arms are seized to the knuckles really tight. I can't stress this enough.
* Do not leave one wheel on the ground. You need to raise the car equally on both sides or the suspension torsion bar will force the lower control arm upwards and make it nearly impossible to lift the lower ball joint stud out of the lower control arm. Have a friend hold your brake pedal while you loosen the axle nuts.
* The retaining clips are rusted in place and do not want to be moved. I tapped them with a hammer and even used a flat head screwdriver to break up the rust holding them in place.
* When you put the castle nuts back on the lower ball joint studs, the ball joints will start to spin as you try to tighten the nuts. I jacked my car up high enough to get my impact wrench under the nut, and the speed was able to overcome the friction of the ball joint and spin the nut down (or up, in the literal sense).
* Mind your brakes. You may need a c clamp to squeeze the piston back into the caliper if the job takes you more than a few hours. Also, inspect your dust shields. I bent mine up and they rubbed the rotors pretty badly during my test ride around the block. Bend them back into place after bolting the brakes back up.
hey, guys. i am doing a front wheel bearings job on my 00 LS.
pardon my rust, this is pennsylvania.