Pmhearns

Just completely a year and half long build of an LSvtec. Was very tedious about checking all specs going back together.. Exept I trusted the machine shop whom refurbished the head in which they said they adjusted valve lash to .007. That being said.... I pulled the old motor for detonation and blown cylinder walls(b20V, all 4 walls cracked and blown head gasket). im reusing the dizzy, cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. I got all hoses and wires connected, pressurized the fuel and checked, im getting around 40 to 45psi at the rail, check. I turned it over while testing each plug and each line had spark... but the motor just turns and occasionally it sputters and puffs but doesn't fire up. I alighned the cams at tdc and put the dizzy centered, and yes the wires are plugged correctly. the ECU is a referb from mafia custom(ebay). it was originally basemapped for a lower compression 9:1 turbo b20V. im running a high compression 12.1:1 lsV... everything else is the same... I figured those wouldn't cause a failer to launch so to speak...


HELP... its so close!

fcm

Check compression.
Check for good spark.
Is fuel getting into the cylinders?
Confirm both electrical and mechanical timing.

One of the above is missing or "off" 94

Pmhearns

Spark, yes. Firing order, yes. Fuel, yes. Compression, pretty sure.. style of the 'cranks', i can hear some pops and when i pops, the engine physically turns as if it's about too turn over..havent actually checked compression with gauge. Timing... started at tdc, with dizzy straight up. Watching the cams spin kind of slow, i advanced it by turning the dizzy ccw... still same result.

fcm

Do the compression test, could be as simple as tight valves, [not closing all the way]. 94

Tjw149

check dissy. Can be backwards on intake cam I think. So timing would be 180 off on ignition.

wunfstgsr

Great idea actually happened to me when I reassembled my engine! And like he said check your valve lash again.

REPTAR

the keyway is offset, you would have to take out the roll pin to turn the keyway on the dizzy 180*. possible, however unlikely

wunfstgsr

Nope some distributor keys will go in either way might take a lil force but like i mentioned it happened to me, then someone mentioned the dizzy might be 180 out and sure enough it was and started right up.

JDMswagSerf

Either side of the distributor will go in. Key is for it to go in smoothly, not forced.

Agree, check compression.

tony_2018

^^
Bingo.

REPTAR

weird, ive personally never seen one that wasn't offset far enough that it wouldn't install 180 out.

Pmhearns

got it, dizzy was good. I readjusted valve lash. most were between .006 and .008. some were a little tighter but they are pretty damn close to .007. so it runs kind of... I had to choke it because I was getting too much fuel. adjusted fuel pressure way down and it will at least idle, although pretty rough... it stays on... if I give it gas, any more than 1800rpms it dies....?

not to mention it started leaking oil all out of my oil pump and from around oil pan.... ugh. I Honda bonded it all and all new gaskets and seals and torqued it to spec... could it be from being built inside ac? my first build and its really making me not even care anymore

tony_2018

What ecu? chipped? What basemap? Whats your fuel pressure before/after startup and after warm up?

oil leak? clean it up and really pin point the leak. Did you put a new oem crank seal on the pump?

Pmhearns

P28 with chrome..unfortunately its basemapped for low compresson... i thought i meniontioend all this? Anyway, car is running 12.1, not like mapped 9.1. Also, its mapped for a 84.5 not 81.5... would this csuse idle and throttle issues? basemap calls for Stock injectors. (originally was going to do turbo b20 84.5). Oh and CEL is on also, there is no knock on the ecu nor in the block(its a b18a).

Im going to pull he crank pully and pan and hopefully locate the leaks.... and yes all new everything.. though cometic not honda

tony_2018

Why do people do this...run a basemap thats not meant for there engine?

Pmhearns

Sorry, let me start from beginning. I was originally going to build a b20 84.5 low comp. 9.1:1. I got a p28 basemapped for that motor. I ended up buying a better condition ls block and boring it to 81.5 and trading my pistons for 12.1 type r pistons.. so my ecu is mapped for a differnt bore and compression. A buddy of mine who has been in the honda game for a long time.... (iv seen his work, he knows his stuff) said it should be ok to start it and run it with minor adjustments until we can tune it.

JDMswagSerf

Because modded ecu means racecar.

REPTAR

you would be better off with a stock ecu than the one you have in there....

Pmhearns

People... please dont be a-holes, it was done because im broke. My wife already hates it as it is. I dont have tons of money. Originally when i boight the car it had a b20vtec and an old prelude ecu and ran...

REPTAR

if I were you, id look into trading ecus with someone, or if you can afford to park the thing for a while to sell the ecu you have, and pick up either a stock ecu, or one better suited to your internals

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

Stop messing with it until you get a decent basemap in there, since the ECU is chipped you should be able to have somebody write one in fairly easily/cheaply. I guarantee you that there's a basemap available for an LS motor with a VTEC head and Type R pistons out there for free.

tony_2018

You think I sound like an *******? i questioned why do people do certain things that will not, I repeat WILL NOT, help them in any way.

If you went a different route than you need to reburn the chip with a proper vtec basemap to get the car to run properly, THAT SIMPLE. That is the 1st thing you need to do before even going any further. Hell, borrow a stock ecu at least and hope to god you don't fry their ****.

REPTAR

I don't think anything involving his lsv build could fry an ecu.... if he has wiring issues then sure, but nothing mechanical can damage the ecu

Pmhearns

Right, i know... instead of offering some friendly advice, you offered sarcasm. Im new to this and clearly bit off more than i could chew. But yes, now thank you for offering the ecu advice. I already found a stock gsr ecu on craigslist.

JDMswagSerf

If the ecu is already chipped. Go to to tuning shop and have them put whatever base Map you need. Get it tuned once you have enough money if you want.
In CA I paid $35 for that.
Had lsv map and had the shop put stock ls map
No issues whatsoever.
Yes, cars can run with another cars ecu but will not run correctly.
Report back when you have correct ecu/map. Otherwise you're going to run around in circles.