deving916

iTrader: (2)

Hey ya'll I've done some searching on this topic but can't really seem to find the answers I need.

I have a 96 DC4, and just recently, the interior light fuse has be popping.

After I replace it it will only last about a minute or so before it pops again.

I do understand that there is probably a loose ground somewhere, but I looked yesterday. (Car is currently gutted)

The wires (driver/passenger) that come off the door switches look fine, both tight.

Also, if the fuse is already popped, the door ajar still works fine but I loose my key in/door open chime, accessory 2 chime, and lights on after removing key chime.

Not sure what this has to do with anything, but If I press the maplights after the fuse pops I get the door ajar light on my cluster.

Any recommendations?

aeon117

I know the door/key chime is wired to some black box under dash left side near kick panel. I know this because i cut one of the wires to stop the key position 1 chime with door open. Might have something to do with that box or somewhere along the lines where the wires are ran. I'd give that a check

DAAPDC2

High amp in the circuit. Anything else running off that circuit?

B_Swapped93

it's shorting out some where if you're popping fuses as soon as you get them in.

deving916

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what else could run off the circuit. I have an aftermarket stereo and amp, but the wiring is connected correctly and tapped up so I already check that stuff.

The thing I can't figure out is where to look for a short. I've checked the back half of the car and all the wires look fine, no crimps or frays or anything. I don't know where to look for a short.

Any recommendations?

DAAPDC2

Muti-meter will be your best friend.

Start at the end of the circuit and work your way back. We def know it is a short.

We also know it is shorting after the fuse or the fuse wouldn't pop.

Check the ground connection with the muti-meter. will read 0 for ground.

If not the problem is before ground.

Make sure muti-meter is seeing power at the fuse. Will see 12 volts, maybe a little under.

So this tells you the problem is after the fuse before the ground.

Possible it is grounding to frame or another wire?

Use the muti-meter and probe the circuit wire and follow until you see no power.

Hope this helps!.

deving916

iTrader: (2)

Where can I find a circuit diagram? I have a multi-meter but not sure where to use it in this situation

fcm

The dome and map lights and trunk/hatch light are on the same circuit, door ajar and chimes are on diff. circuits, the dome/map light power circuit is the white/red lead, the map and dome are off one lead the trunk/hatch off another lead and plug from the fuse box. 94

deving916

iTrader: (2)

FCM, then how come I'm loosing chimes and both lights, but still maintaining a "door open" indicator normally even after the fuse blows?

fcm

The door open indicator is on a diff. fuse, fuse 15-10A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.

Chimes and dome light for drivers door are all through the ICU, but control is just a ground from the door pin switchs, the drivers door pin switch goes to the ICU and the ICU, on it's own fuse, triggers the chimes and supplies a ground output for the dome light and door open indicator.

The fuse you are blowing, interior light fuse 5-7.5A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box only powers the dome, map and trunk/hatch lights. 94

deving916

iTrader: (2)

I understand that, so how can I stop the fuse from popping?

Also, I may misunderstand you but, once that 7.5a interior light fuse blows, I do loose my chimes. I know they're separate apparently but that is what is happening.

fcm

turns out the ICU is also powered by fuse #3, it is done internally, [inside the fuse box directly to the ICU].

To keep the fuse from blowing you will need to find the short, I would start by unplugging and removing the ICU from the back of the under dash fuse box, install the fuse and see if it still blows.

If not, replace the ICU, if it still blows you will need to fallow the red/white leads from the dome, map and trunk/hatch lights to finds the short, you can unplug the read harness and take the trunk/hatch light and wiring out of the mix to narrow down what you need to pull apart, [if fuse still blows with the rear harness unplugged, the problem is not in the rear harness or trunk/hatch light. 94

deving916

iTrader: (2)

Is the ICU the big white box attached to the back of the fuse box?

I unplugged it and replaced the 7.5a fuse. I didn't get my chimes / lights, but I could manually press them (on switch for dome/on for map). I will drive around and see if the fuse will blow.

If it is the ICU, I just have to replace the entire fuse box right?

fcm

If the ICU is bad, replace the ICU, no need to replace the whole fuse box.

Without the ICU you will not have...

Dome light off drivers door.
Any warning chimes.
Rear window defog.
Intermitent front wipers.
Front side markers.
Probably some other things also. 94

deving916

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man,

I went to the junkyard and got 2, just to be safe lol.

I'll install them and see if it fixed the problem, which it should.

deving916

iTrader: (2)

The ICU isn't that easy to take off the back, not for me anyways, so I just swapped the whole fuse box since I thought it was easier.

As of right now, everything works like it should.

Only downside is, unless I'm crazy, I think the tone of the beeps is different, but then again, who cares right?

Thanks for the help fcm, I couldn't of done it without ya.