dnaDC2

ok let me start by saying ive done numerous searchs over the last week.



so I was driving one morning car just shut off 15 mins later started it got it home pulled codes...code 4 TDC sensor ...tried a diff dizzy still code 4 bought a reman still codes so then I started diagnosing



checked ohms at dizzy plug .4 on all 3 tdc cyp and ckp (my meter only does 220k so .4 should be 400 and within the 350- 700 ohm spec



checked for continunity at dizzy plug and there was none so im under impression dizzy is good.



next I checked resistance at ecu for the cyp tdc and ckp sensors .. .3 on all three also checked cont. again there is none.



also my tach doesn't work after this issue started but it did originally



so does this mean bad ecu?



car is a 2001 integra with swapped gsr motor and conversion harness and a p30 ecu?



this is my dd and I cant have anymore time with it down so please help

slowDB7

im pretty sure your supposed to have a p72 ecu

dnaDC2

it don't matter only reason you need a p72 is to run the iabs and I have a different manifold so there is no iabs...I can use any ecu hypothetically given its chipped or tuned with proper maps

dnaDC2

and also ive ran this car and motor on this ecu just fine for about 5 months

dnaDC2

bump

dnaDC2

anyone?

dnaDC2

ttt no one knows

fcm

So are you saying car will start but will stall out at some point and then restart only after cooling down a bit?

Because you have tried other distributor assemblies with same results and the fact tach no longer works, my guess is it is a connection issue.

Check all pertinent connection points/plugs, unplug and check both male and female terminals for corrosion, bent/damaged terminals, spray with contact cleaner or WD40 and reconnect, check continuity of the connection, pay close attention to any connection points of the TDC leads between the distributor and the ECU/ECM. 94

dnaDC2

yea it dies and starts again after cooling ive cleaned all connections and rechecked continuity still same theres only the plug at the ecu the plug on the shock tower and the plug at the dizzy and ive cleaned and checke all 3

gordonshumway

it was mentioned that you changed the dizzy,did you put in the same model? if it is different, is it compatable with your motor?

fcm

Have you actually checked to see if it is spark you lose when the engine stalls?

I would, check for power to the distributor assembly, [black/yellow] when engine will not start.

Use an HEI spark tester to check for spark, [on all 4 cylinders] when engine will not start.

In other words, if you have not already, confirm that spark is the issue.

You may also have to confirm continuity of all the leads to the distributor assembly, when engine fails to start, if spark is the issue. 94

dnaDC2

diff model but still compatible mu old one was td-87u new one is td-84u both are obd 2 dohc vtec dizzys

dnaDC2

no I haven't checked to see spark after car wont start..i will do that ...its snowing here today so I gotta wait

dnaDC2

I hear you I ended up fixing it ecu was bad..crazy tho cause car woud still start and run with it new ecu runs like a champ..thanks for all the help guys

fcm

time.94

Fliptard

check your plug at the dizzy again while you shake the harness, maybe there's a break and only shorts out when it vibrates.

slowDB7

he already fixed it hah

SiR-shaffer

I'm also haveing dizzy issues, I have a b16 EF hatch and just converted to obd1. I'm getting a crankshaft position sensor code when I take it all the way to red line, but when I shut my car off and back on its fine until i take it all the way to the top of the rpm range. I have 3 good b16 dizzys and I replaced the sensor with another one from a good dizzy and checked it with a volt meter. I'm still getting the same issue.