B_Swapped93

Shooting for 11:1ish compression in my 94 GSR have done a few calculations...and with PR3(B16) pistons I should be just over my CR goal.I plan on leaving the engine in the car(keep things simple), my questions are If after I honed the CYL's would I still be able to use 81mm pistons ? i'm not trying to bore just hone. 2nd I would need new ROD not main bearings correct ? and 3rd should I just reuse my stocks rods after I get the wrist pins pressed out i'm trying to keep things simple not cheap out tho.

this will probably happen over the winter months.

car is starting to burn oil along with tuner 2's benefiting from a higher then stock GSR C/R has lead my to this decision.

Sleeper EM1

You'll have to measure the Bore to make sure it's not Out Of Round.
You shouldn't need new rod or main bearings but since your going that far you might as well.
But you can't check the clearances via Plasti Gauge with the motor right side up. It'll just smash the Plasti Gauge giving a false reading.

So if your not gonna pull the motor to measure proper clearances, sticking to just Honing is best.

Even then, I like to Deck the Head and Block any time it's taken apart.

B_Swapped93

I've never heard good things about re using rod bearing main bearing are the bearing for the crank right ? since i'm leaving that I won't have to worry about those. a bore gauge is what's needed to measure after you hone correct ?

Sleeper EM1

You measure the bore before you hone.
Cause it would be a waste to hone an Oval cylinder.

B_Swapped93

so I need a bore gauge correct ? yes I get that the engine still pushes 230-240 psi in 1-4 cyls so I highly drought the cyl's are at all damaged.

Sleeper EM1

Yes you do, I just hope you know how to hone by hand good.
Shitty hone could mean blow by for days.

But in all honesty I would just remove the motor so you can properly clearance new bearings and deck both head and block surfaces.
It's more work but well worth it IMO.