julianbc2

MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AFTER CHANGER TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP. THE CODE IS 9 No. 1 cylinder position (CYP sensor). I HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT AND THE TIMMING IS PERFECT. ANY IDEAS ON WHY THE CODE IS BEING THROWN?

fcm

Clear the code and see if it comes back. 94

julianbc2

ok will do

julianbc2

pulled the ecu fuse out for an hour and put it back in and left it for another hour started up the car. 2 min later the code came back on what now?

julianbc2

need honda-tech to help me out!!!

tegradb7

this is cel code pertains on the distributor area.....heres a link.


http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic

TiMiD703

iTrader: (1)

I had to bring this thread back from the dead because it helped me alot and want to make sure people acually troubleshoot it and don't start throwing money at the car. Lots of research done trying to figure out this Code #9 (CYP) that pops up.

CLIFF NOTES: Car jerks at highway speeds. Code #9 pops up. Troubleshooted problem. Problem fixed.

Engine: H23A

My Symptoms: Car randomly jerks hard holding a steady speed on the highway only after hitting around 65 - 70 MPH. Sputtering and hesitating and engine sounding alot louder than normal.

Timeline: Start up car for work. Driving to highway and everything is fine. Hit highway and drive normally @ 40 - 50 MPH and everything still fine. Hit express way going 60 - 70 MPH hold a steady speed at 67 - 69 MPH and a sudden jerk appears. Holding steady *Hesitate jerk jerk sputter*. Let go and place in neuteral - idles fine everything is smooth. Place back in 5th gear going 50 MPH still sputter jerk jerk. then a CEL turns on and car runs better (no more jerking) but alot louder and sounds like its angry. Drive all the way to work. When i turn off the car the code goes away. Does not come back on untill I drive at highway speeds again. So this time I left the car running at work and found Code #9 (CYP). Did research, Found the link above and got to work.

Possibilitys from other threads online: Spark plugs, Spark plug wires, D cap, D rotor, Distributor itself, TPS, Throttle body plate being stuck, throttle cable, Tune, ECU, EGR ports, stuck injector, IACV, Axles, Clutch, Transmission.

My Thoughts: Tune was bad, If it happens only at highway speeds maybe TPS, maybe transmission. I was not really sure.

Then I came across this thread and it actually had a link to a different site to properly test why the CYP was coming up.

First I read what to check and I preformed the test with my Multimeter. example picture attached. All tests came back within spec so I know now its not the distributor or a short / break in the wire to the ECU. Since I checked that first i was able to now check other things.

Second I checked the TPS to see if there was a spot in the range of the TPS that was bad. Checked voltage from .45 closed throttole slowly opening throttle to make sure voltage increases smoothly and there are not spots that lose voltage. When first opening throttle I did notice it was a little hard to open and felt kind of stuck. after that everything was ok. everything checked out fine to 4.5 WOT.

Third I removed my intake to check to see if the throttle was getting stuck. It was opening and closing with ease now and everything inside looks super clean so i put the intake back on.

Forth I just wanted to check to see if its a spark plug or injector so I started up the car and one by one pulled the spark plug wires to see if there was a change in how the engine ran and all of them made the engine run oddly. Same when unplugging the injector plug. So it seemed they were good but double checked anyways.

Fith I removed spark plugs. 1, 3, and 4, looked fine. Cylinder 2 plug had rust spots and white stuff where the spark plug wire goes in (not the plug itself) and just looked all around bad. Had the GF crank the motor while having the spark plugs in the wires and grounding the thread to see if the spark is ok. All spark the same whitish blue. seems good so checked the gap and left them.

Sixth I wanted to check the resistance of the spark plug wires so took my multimeter again and verified the resistance was UNDER 25k OHMs. They all were different but because of the different lengths that was accounted for. All 4 were off by a little. It was like 3,4,5,6 OHMs going off the 2k OHM setting. So it looked good fine to me.

Stumped I started looking around at axles and mounts and throttle cable and saw the rubber boot on the throttle cable was wedged a little under where it wraps around the throttle body. I just cut off the rubber boot and threw it away just incase and cleaned the throttle cable because it had this sticky residue.

Could not find out what could be causing it so I decided to purchase the spark plugs since #2 looked like crap and when i started driving to the parts store, the car felt alot more smoother for some reason. More quiet and less hesitation when shifting gears. I really didnt change anything on the car so wanted to test it and went on the highway instead of the parts store. Hit the normal spot it takes for CEL light to turn on (65 - 70 MPH) crusing and nothing. all is well in the world. Press the gas and go 80 MPH and feels alot more smoother and the engine is not angry and yelling at me anymore. Decide to not rule out anything and drove it home to test it again tomorrow morning on the way to work. Next day same routine, get on express way, still driving smooth, loving it, no loud engine, no CEL, no Jerking, all the way to work (45 Min drive). Thinking??? was it the throttle cable rubber boot the whole time?? A couple of threads said that could cause it to happen. I was like no way. Oh and check your oil level. Mine was low causing it to jerk too. Once i topped it off everything was smooth sailing.

Moral of the story is. Troubleshoot the problem. You will save more money and find the problem easier. If I started throwing money at it I would be broke with a still broken car.

StewieVX

I have exactly the same problem as you did. You mentioned the fixed worked after two issues you addressed. First was you changed spark plug #2 i think you said and then you cut off some throttle rubber boot. Can you tell me where that rubber boot is please? You don't think it was spark plug change.

For my issue i already changed to new distributor td-42U (may have been re manufactured) and have new distro wires and brand new spark plugs. Also have new fuel filter as well. I get CEL code 9. I'm leaning towards ignition timing or maybe timing belt skipped a tooth and timing is off or it was improperly installed or timing has been improperly done. Maybe O2 is went bad? But that would be different code so i don't think so. My 02 is fairly new.

Any help in this issue would be greatly appriciated guys. I can't seem to solve this issue. I have 92 honda civic vx d15z1 engine.

Oliver Diaz

Hey I was just wondering, did you ever figure out what the problem was??? I've done the same thing you've done. Replaced distributor twice, spark plugs and wires, and the fuel filter as well.

HondaPartsHero

Assuming you have a 92-95 vehicle

StewieVX

Hi Oliver. Well. I had dizzy changed to new one from autozone instead of RM one i had previously and the CEL and code is gone. HOWEVER mechanic i think retarded my ignition timing i think on dizzy so it's really retarded. So that's how he cheated CEL code. I don't think dizzy was the fix but patch seems to came from retarded ignition.

The end result is no more CEL but my vtec is no longer engaging either due to retarded timing I THINK. So my car is slower (vtec not engaging), has less hp but mpgs are good and better then before. It almost seems like i'm operating on 12 valves instead of 16. The car seems to operate like old civic HF with 8 valves due to no vtec engagement at 2500rpms plus.

My thought is issue is patched but not fixed but it worked. However i don't want to spend any more money on this car so i'll leave it at that. Let me know when you fix yours what the issue was on yours. If anyone thinks my analogy is faulty please let me know as i'm only speculating here since mechanic was not really honest so i can only speculate and guess but dizzy was changed.

I would start with brand new not re manufactured dizzy 42U.

Oliver Diaz

Yeah I've replaced it a couple times with another OEM dizzy and one from AutoZone, it felt a little better once that one was put on but still slugging at times. Sort of like a miss fire is happening. It's drivable but I hate how it doesn't feel normal lol I'll keep trying a couple more things but a trip to my mechanic will have to happen soon to see what he can figure out. I'll keep you posted, thanks for the help!!

shiftyjonno

Sorry to bring the thread back from the dead, but I've found a fix that may be of help to others.

I have a USDM P91 which is throwing a code 9. I bench tested it with a Moates.Net Engine Simulator so I knew the fault was NOT a dizzy related problem.

Firstly, I was just fiddling around having a look and I decided to to connect a main capacitor to pin's B11 and B12 to help 'smooth' the signal. What do you know ... the problem disappeared!
Then I knew it was a signal issue, so I traced the pin B11 on the underside of the board which lead to a ceramic disc capacitor marked "102" at 'C4' on the top side ...

I replaced this capacitor and it now works perfectly.

Short version:
Trace pin B11 to the first capacitor you come across and replace it.

N2O_H23

I have a 98 prelude sh with a H23A swap. P28 chipped and flashed ecu. Running nitrous for a couple months now and have 1 step colder plugs....car been running good until a couple weeks ago ive been having a tiny missfire under 3K RPM. So i cleaned my plugs new cap rotor and put my distributor from my 2000 prelude H22A1. Ran fine for a few days then dropped a gear on the freeway and it sounded a little like what you ate saying, like it has no intake on...loud and falls on its face when it hits vtech @5200RPM. I plugged my stock ecu in to run codes and Im getting code 9-1 and 5-1 and the normal codes for knock sensor and o2 which doesnt matter because i run no knock sensor and o2 with my p28 ecu OBD1. So code 5-1 and 9-2. I assume my issue is my distributor from my H22A1 is causing my problem. It ran fine for a few days tho. When i get off work ill put my H23A distribitor back on and post results. But my point was im getting code 9 as well and i assume its from switching distributor. I read that it wouldnt work and that it would from the internet so i tried it.

H23 blue top swap. Obd1 P28 sst chip/rich tune motorsports flashed. Nitrous express proton plus nitrous kit with shark nozzle with 35shot. Stock exaust with spoon tip. Intake. AEM wide ban. Oil pressure guage with blox sandwich plate. Mishimoto aluminum dual fans and shroud. EGR delete. Cruise control delete. And semi wire tuck.And a bunch of dress up anodized stuff