BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

Alright so a couple months back I was getting CEL 72, random misfire cylinder 2. Eventually it was a constant misfire and turned out I had a chipped exhaust valve. Foward to now, head is back on and fixed, but now I'm throwing CEL 71 - 74, Random Misfire in all 4 cylinders. But the misfire is not audible and the car drives fine.

I've changed the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I also pulled the injectors out and cleaned them best I could. I just tested the ohm readings on my ignitor coil and it's fine. I can't figure this out. Any other suggestions?

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

bump for answers

yee SERIOUS

iTrader: (1)

what's your timing at?

kiddcarbuff

did you have alot of gas when you started to misfire on cyl #2?? this happened to my buddy in his gsr, he was beating on it w/ like no gas and it spit and threw a cel, would rev past 7 grand, filled it up, disconnected the battery and ecu for 10 mins and preto it ws fine. hope that helps a lil

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by undercoverdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's your timing at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything with timing is good. Teeth are lined up and ignition timing is right on the money at 16 degrees.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kiddcarbuff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you have alot of gas when you started to misfire on cyl #2?? this happened to my buddy in his gsr, he was beating on it w/ like no gas and it spit and threw a cel, would rev past 7 grand, filled it up, disconnected the battery and ecu for 10 mins and preto it ws fine. hope that helps a lil</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have the misfire in cyl 2 anymore. I replaced the exhaust valve, but after putting everything back together I'm getting a "random misfire" in cylinders 1 through 4, but it's not audible and doesn't seem to actually be missing at any point.

1337whp

iTrader: (3)

i've had the same problem for like 2 weeks now. i cant hear or feel it it just throws the same codes. any other ideas? car runs fine except for a low idle sometimes. i plan on comse maintence this weekend which should hopefully help.

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had the same problem for like 2 weeks now. i cant hear or feel it it just throws the same codes. any other ideas? car runs fine except for a low idle sometimes. i plan on comse maintence this weekend which should hopefully help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep forgot to throw that in the idle seems to fluctuate sometimes. But when it goes up to like 800 it'll stay there for a bit. I also found yesterday yesterday a leak from one of my injectors, the o-ring was ripped. So I replaced that this morning, but haven't driven the car since resetting the ecu. I don't think though that was the problem.

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

bump still cant figure this out

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

Adding this for future people that search:

Seems to be the ecu was the problem. Swapped in a friends and the cel never came back on again. Put mine back in and after 6 miles of driving it was back. So now I just gotta find one to buy.

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

bump cause I was wrong about it being the ecu.


Still need help figuring this out.

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

bump

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

bump, just tried changing the fuel filter, still nothing

93eg2james

im the kid that kiddcarbuff was talking about and it lead to a bent exhaust valve, so i'd get crackin on this one. the problem "went away" after i recet my ecu, but it came back to haunt me

my guess is that its something to do with your dizzy. replace the rotor and cap, im willing to bet thats the problem. when rotors get old and tired they dont spin as well causing problems that you're not gonna wanna pay for

fortunatly for me i have a good group of friends and i got a b16a head for next to nothing. if at all possible. dont drive the car till the problem is solved

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

I already changed the cap and rotor.

96tegls2dr

i am having a silimar problem. i just swappe din a b20b becasue my b18b was drinking oil and throwing a cel of misfire in cyl 1 and 3. i contributed that to the fact that my intake temps were reading 152* on the b18. i havent gotten a code since the swap but i have only put about 75 miles on her since. the idle still jump around and i have a slight hesitation when feathering the pedal. basically what happens is the car bogs if i slowly increase the throttle. i know i have a bad cat becasue i can smell rotten eggs at idle. i am attributing this stumble and idle problem to the cat for now. but i am also thinking it could be the cap and rotor. i am going to install a test pipe but need to get an o2 simulator first so i dont throw more CEL's. hopefully the cat is the problem if not ill get a new cap and rotor and if that not it ill burn the damn car. i am frustrated becasue i bought the car and a month later the motor started acting up so i put out the money for the swap and im still having problems. it has to be something i switch over though becasue both motors are having the same idle and hesitation problem

Lauj87

sounds like you could have jumped your timeing. do a leak down and compression test. or you might have some how retared your timeing when your sprayed.

96tegls2dr

if that was to me i know my timming is right so that rules that out.

Lauj87

doesn't hurt to double check.

BLacK FirE

iTrader: (2)

Well I fixed my problem. It was my CFK sensor.

96tegls2dr

i am not throwing any codes after the swap and my CFK sensor was swapped over to the current motor. i havent ruled it out yet but when i give it gas it feels great. so for me i believe its either the cat or the cap and rotor. i hope anyway. i hate trying to diagnose a problem that could be multiple things. especially when money is tight!! LOL