TYPE WAHH

Alright this just started happening the other day when im driving and push in the clutch the car will most of the time go dead. It cranks right up. Also its just seems like high rpms are really hard on it and just doesnt wanna do it. I have no idea what it is

delsolproblems

Put the car in neutral and without pressing the brake, depress the clutch pedal. If you can't get the problem to occur in this manner, than pressing the clutch isn't the actual problem. See if pressing the brake hard after the car has warmed up to normal operating temp with no accessories turned on causes it to stall.

TYPE WAHH

Yeah im sure its not the clutch just when you let the rpms fall it stalls

delsolproblems

See if you can get any more info about what helps the problem or makes it worse. If pressing the brake hard makes it worse, the problem is with your air/fuel ratio and likely from a vacuum leak. If the problem gets worse the hotter the engine gets (after reach normal operating temp) then it's likely going to be either a weak ignition (probably from a bad ICM or coil) or a clogged filter (air or fuel).

Xscort

I had this similar problem....my guess is that the Clutch Safety Switch on the top of the pedal is probably bad. There's a plastic pedal stop that tends to deteriorate, happened to me 3 times on 2 cars!! The plastic stops pushes in the Safety Switch that allows u start the car, thats why u have to press the clutch in to start the car. It a tight fit to get underneath ur pedals, but if I were you, I'd check your Clutch Safety Switch/Pedal Stop.

fcm

The CIS has absolutely nothing to do with the engine running, a bad CIS would either not allow engine to start, [not OPs problem] or would allow engine to start without stepping on clutch, but it would not stall the engine, you could remove, [unplug] the CIS and engine will not stall.

I have to agree with delsolproblems on what it may be and how to go about checking it. 94

TYPE WAHH

Yeah when it warms up to normal temp its gets worse i was thinking i wasnt getting good spark or compression im going to do spark plug and wires along with coil tomorrow and change the fuel filter and see if any of these help will post results

delsolproblems

If at any point you want to check the ignition to see how it is doing, you can purchase a spark tester or:

Performing this test at night or in a dark area will make it easier to see the sparks. Warm the car up completely to normal operating temperature or as hot as your motor gets. Ignition components are affected by heat and problems with those parts may not show up until the engine is hot. Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire. Hold the plastic deep-well tube by the rubber boot at the tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching clean, bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts as far from the plug, motor and metal body parts as possible. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester. Also, a parts store should be able to test your coil and ICM for free. If you take one out, you might as well take them both to the store to get tested. Have them repeat the test a few times in a row on each part. Between you checking the spark and a parts store testing the electronics, you should end up saving some money by not replacing any good parts.

TYPE WAHH

Yeah ive dont that before just havent dont it on this problem because ive been brain storming on what it could have been

TYPE WAHH

The Spark plug test came back weak. I had spark but it was no where near what it should of been i have an extra disi im going to put on tomorrow and see if that works.

delsolproblems

If all of the sparks are weak and a better ground doesn't help, you're looking at the coil, ICM, cap and rotor as possibilities. If you try out a used replacement coil and/or ICM, try taking them to a parts store to have them tested at an electronics testing station first. If it's a nice day, do the switch at the store and they can test the original ones too.

mikekinsley

had car come into shop today with same idle clutch issue, also if you pump brake pedal idle would increase with every pump. hair line crack in throttle body casting just on back side of iac . in middle not actually leading to iac ,
smeared silicone on for test and got idle correction . replaced with salvage yard unit

B serious

iTrader: (1)

This thread is 5+ years old. Back in 2010, they probably didn't know what crank thrust bearing wear was. The dude probably tried lots of things before he realized he had to replace the engine.

That's why you don't hold the clutch down at stoplights or buy a heavy duty clutch without installing a start bypass switch.

Vangm

Hey guys, I'm new to all this on line stuff... I got the same thing going with my 98 Honda Accord f20b swap. Evetime I come to a stop it die. Rpm will drop and die. When I warm up the car, go to push on the clutch it dies. How you fix it or wht is makeing it do tht...? I need help.... Thk you