Navy_Kyle

ok when im taking off in 1st gear my car acts like you press on the brakes and once you get over 3k rpms its just fine. but in 5th gear it does the same thing but while you are driving it, but its just acts like you are lightly tapping on the break. i have one cel code on and its the ckf sensor. i replaced the sensor but it wont go away. wanna try to figure it out myself before i have to resort taking it to my mechanic

el crapitan

i dont like how this symptom is being described. hitting the brakes. does it feel like the engine is misfiring?
did you get those previous issues sorted?

Navy_Kyle

well im not sure what a misfire would feel like lol, and none of the codes are being thrown but i think there may be something up with the cel maybe idk, but ya everything else is fixed except for this problem

el crapitan

without understanding the symptom, its very hard to diagnose the problem.
does it feel like the throttle hits a dead spot?
have you tried solving the ckf code? aside from replacing the sensor,that is.
sometimes one problem will compound into others. thats why you must solve one to move onto the next

Navy_Kyle

no its not hitting a dead spot because that would just feel like a loss of power, and idk any other way to describe how this feels other then when you take off the car loses power, stops going forward for a split second and then all power is back. and as for the ckf sensor i have a write up on how to check it all the way back to the ecu but im not good with electrical crap never have been, but i will give it a shot today when i get back home, and post up tomorrow what i find out

el crapitan

what repairs had you made prior to this occurring?
i think i might try disconnecting the o2 sensor. see if the problem persists

Navy_Kyle

i hadnt made any! i bought the car and it ran perfectly fine and then like 6 months later this **** happened. the ckf sensor wasnt present when the car ran good, and then the car acted up and the cel for the ckf sensor came up out of no where

el crapitan

ok. well the ckf is likely throwing a code because the car is misfiring.
have you checked the codes more recently? you should be throwing more than a ckf code now.
in this order:
-check the codes
-disconnect the o2 sensor and see how it runs.

Dioxine

The CFK light comes on only in one of 2 cases (with the stock motor, no swaps, no massive upgrades). The sensor went bad, or its function properly and detecting an engine misfire. What you need to look for now is why your car is misfiring. Plugs good?Wires?Air filter?O2 Sensor? Start off by checking for general tune up problems.

el crapitan

didn't you say in another thread that your plugs were fouled? have you changed those out yet?

Navy_Kyle

which o2 sensor lol, i have 2. i got the codes from putting a wire in the blue plug on the passenger side kicker panel. but i pulled codes that arnt possible to be pulled on my car. and i checked them multiple times to make sure they were right. i got this. 12 31 32 54 61 81

el crapitan

i was speaking of the primary o2. upstream of the cat.
but did you replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor?
as for the codes, not sure if you're reading them correctly, but just have it scanned with an obd2 scanner

Navy_Kyle

alright i will try that haha and no not yet in school until Thursday, Friday i will try and get those parts, but the cap and rotor are not very old maybe like 6 months old, but i will for sure change out the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

and i have scanned it with the obd2 scanner and only the ckf sensor showed up

el crapitan

hmmm. i wonder if, somehow, there is a connection between the fouled plugs, the misfiring, and the ckf code

Navy_Kyle

lol is that sarcasm? ill change them out this friday when i get paid, also theres good spark going into the spark plugs

el crapitan

sarcasm. yes.
of course there is good spark to the plugs. they're fouled. a fouled plug has much less resistance than one that isn't. it's actually shortening the plug gap. you know what? some pretty cool *** **** takes place inside the combustion chamber in order to ignite that air fuel mixture. it's not just as simple as spark make fuel go boom. there's a reason we need 20000 volts. that reason is ionization. it takes a certain level of resistance to raise the voltage high enough in order for ionization to occur. ignition will still occur. but without ionization, combustion won't. it's actually quite a bit more complex than just that. but if you are really interested, you can find the information easily. check it out. it is fascinating stuff. the visuals of an ignition waveform viewed through an oscilliscope, when understood, make the process much easier to comprehend.

Navy_Kyle

well im happy to say i found the problem! well...happy i found it not happy at the price lol.
But it was my Distributor

el crapitan

how did you come to that conclusion?

Navy_Kyle

took it to my mechanic lol he didnt charge me anything since my dad has taken his cars there for a long time. i slapped one of my buddies distributors on there and no problems have arisen,

el crapitan

hmm. probably the coil. could be what fouled the plugs

Navy_Kyle

yaaa scratch that called and told me the problem is still there all codes are fixed, so he doesnt really even know. he has a few ideas that hes going to go over.

el crapitan

well, misfires aren't too hard to find. and you know it's not the distributor now. your car's obd2. if your mechanic has even a decent scan tool like a verus or even modus, he'll be able to view recorded PID's during a road test and solve it pretty quick.

here's what i'd do: HEI test each cylinder. it passes, and you can rule out ignition altogether. then move onto fuel. perform a dynamic fuel pressure and flow test. it passes that, then you may be dealing with an issue with one of the ecm's inputs. that's when the scan tool comes into play. you can record your ecm input PIDs during a road test, under load, and view them to see what looks out of place. that all can be done in under an hour.

TBH, the first 2, HEI and dynamic fuel test, can be done by yourself. all you need is an HEI tester (about 30$ tops) and a fuel pressure gauge (probably same cost). they're excellent tools to have anyways for future diagnostics. especially considering hondas notoriously underrated ignition coils.
asi'dmentioned previously, could also try disconnecting the o2 sensor and see if the problem persists.
you did install new plugs though, yes? when you said they were fouled, what type of fouling was it? oil? or carbon?

kodylive

change the trans oil and see if that works also make sure nothing is loose if that doest work your gears might be going out same thing hapend to my friends teggy

Navy_Kyle

ok so problem is fixed now. my mechanic replaced the iat sensor, thermostat, dizzy and did the ckf bypass trick.

Navy_Kyle

Problem not fixed again...