Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
04-17-2016, 12:16 PM
#101
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Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Looking great.
I started a restoration project on a teggy about the same time too but man you're knocking this thing out! GW.
Want to mention that your front grounding wire seems to be in different location than I'd expect. Factory spots are from the bolt location Just right of fan ground(above dr head lamp) to right front valve cover stud. The mount location you're on (used for rhd cable mount?) won't guarantee direct contact to the engine block, since you have the vc gasket between. If it's working well for you more power to you. I just cleaned up my grounding (and added a rywire kit) and was pleasantly surprised by a slight improvement in performance, just seemed to help smooth out acceleration.
Cheers
I started a restoration project on a teggy about the same time too but man you're knocking this thing out! GW.
Want to mention that your front grounding wire seems to be in different location than I'd expect. Factory spots are from the bolt location Just right of fan ground(above dr head lamp) to right front valve cover stud. The mount location you're on (used for rhd cable mount?) won't guarantee direct contact to the engine block, since you have the vc gasket between. If it's working well for you more power to you. I just cleaned up my grounding (and added a rywire kit) and was pleasantly surprised by a slight improvement in performance, just seemed to help smooth out acceleration.
Cheers
04-17-2016, 03:49 PM
#103
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ Correct, but this is some real shitty after market glue. I've had many, many honda's over the years and this is by far the messiest stuff I have encountered. It does not resembled the OEM glue texture i've seen. If it is OEM i'd be really surprised. The previous owner had removed the sound deadening a few times from the looks of it so I'm pretty positive he put whatever was one there himself.
04-17-2016, 04:19 PM
#104
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Yeah in SoCal if you take the factory glue away at all then add our heat you end up with the same goop in your photo, not saying it wasn't messed with too, just that I hate that stuff.
A very peaceful feeling washed over me when I saw your clean up job. I'll definitely be taking brake clean to my doors in the future.
The plastic sheets are a great factory solution when you think about how much they do help, little they weigh, and that their real purpose is to manage moisture in the door, they just aren't reusable.
On one car I helped build we had such an issue with trying to keep the sheets we even sprung for the ~$200 replacements (ok we went a little OCD on that one), came with the glue pre-applied and even that was far from good.
At least out here where it stays dry there are other ways to handle the sound dampening.
For I say, like factory paint, either don't f-with it at all or just let it go and plan something else.
A very peaceful feeling washed over me when I saw your clean up job. I'll definitely be taking brake clean to my doors in the future.
The plastic sheets are a great factory solution when you think about how much they do help, little they weigh, and that their real purpose is to manage moisture in the door, they just aren't reusable.
On one car I helped build we had such an issue with trying to keep the sheets we even sprung for the ~$200 replacements (ok we went a little OCD on that one), came with the glue pre-applied and even that was far from good.
At least out here where it stays dry there are other ways to handle the sound dampening.
For I say, like factory paint, either don't f-with it at all or just let it go and plan something else.
04-17-2016, 10:36 PM
#105
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Ya, not a fan either. I used a less tacky silicone based adhesive. Time will tell how well it holds up but on the drivers door it was very clean and when I popped the panel off to check up on it, it is holding well.
The deadening is actually destroyed on the passenger side and I didn't have a replacement so currently it doesn't have any. Where did you buy a replacement? I'm probably just going to use closed cell foam but wouldn't mind having plastic there as well. I honestly haven't noticed much of a change in road noise under 100km/hr.
The deadening is actually destroyed on the passenger side and I didn't have a replacement so currently it doesn't have any. Where did you buy a replacement? I'm probably just going to use closed cell foam but wouldn't mind having plastic there as well. I honestly haven't noticed much of a change in road noise under 100km/hr.
04-22-2016, 01:03 PM
#106
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Slow day at work so ended up picking up some of the last parts for the car. Fresh set of trailing arm bushings and a new cam seal. I'm hoping for some half decent weather on Sunday so I can finish the a/c system up then possibly the valve adjustment and cam seal. As far as the trailing arm bushings go I spoke to the shop foreman yesterday and he is going to let me use a bay sometime over the next few weeks. I prefer to deal with the bushings at the Honda dealer just in case I run into issues with bolts or pressing them out. It's always a little nicer not having the stress of something going wrong and being unable to replace a bolt etc.
04-25-2016, 12:57 PM
#108
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ If everyone is saying that is Honda factory jizz then i'll assume you are all correct. The previous owner must have just spread it around when he tampered with the doors.
Update Time, ROUND 2 of A/C beat me down and now i'm headed into ROUND 3 on Wednesday.
The long story short, the condenser has a hairline crack at one of the fittings... just getting no love from this car lol. Oh well, it's coming along nicely and i've almost cleaned up all the nightmares. I called up the guy I bought the bumpers from and picked up a mint condition condenser and the lines coming off of it that go through the front bumper. Wednesday is round 3. The positives from this are I got the old pump removed along with the old drier and got the new ones installed along with a fresh a/c mount and pulley. I also got some fresh hardware from the parts car and replaced some of the crusty rusted bolts.
4 oz of fresh pag oil was added to the compressor and all the lines were removed and had compressed air ran through them to make sure no contaminants are in the system. I had air ran through the condenser and lines I picked up last night. One of the lines had a bunch of crap shoot out of it :p Thankfully I only had a little bit of refrigerant wasted as I heard it leak quickly then capped the can and put it aside for round 3.
Also before someone starts a huge debate in this thread, I spoke to the tech's at the Honda dealer I work at and they said it is not the end of the world to run pag oil with r12. I've read so many mixed reviews that pag oil is for r134a etc and the end result was always inconclusive. If the honda tech's are telling me i'll be fine then **** it. Time will tell if the compressor fails or if it will be fine. It's an old used compressor in an old used car. A friend did this exact combo in his old 2001 EL and said it worked fine for years with no issues blowing ice cold a/c.
Update Time, ROUND 2 of A/C beat me down and now i'm headed into ROUND 3 on Wednesday.
The long story short, the condenser has a hairline crack at one of the fittings... just getting no love from this car lol. Oh well, it's coming along nicely and i've almost cleaned up all the nightmares. I called up the guy I bought the bumpers from and picked up a mint condition condenser and the lines coming off of it that go through the front bumper. Wednesday is round 3. The positives from this are I got the old pump removed along with the old drier and got the new ones installed along with a fresh a/c mount and pulley. I also got some fresh hardware from the parts car and replaced some of the crusty rusted bolts.
4 oz of fresh pag oil was added to the compressor and all the lines were removed and had compressed air ran through them to make sure no contaminants are in the system. I had air ran through the condenser and lines I picked up last night. One of the lines had a bunch of crap shoot out of it :p Thankfully I only had a little bit of refrigerant wasted as I heard it leak quickly then capped the can and put it aside for round 3.
Also before someone starts a huge debate in this thread, I spoke to the tech's at the Honda dealer I work at and they said it is not the end of the world to run pag oil with r12. I've read so many mixed reviews that pag oil is for r134a etc and the end result was always inconclusive. If the honda tech's are telling me i'll be fine then **** it. Time will tell if the compressor fails or if it will be fine. It's an old used compressor in an old used car. A friend did this exact combo in his old 2001 EL and said it worked fine for years with no issues blowing ice cold a/c.
05-02-2016, 04:43 AM
#110
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ If everyone is saying that is Honda factory jizz then i'll assume you are all correct. The previous owner must have just spread it around when he tampered with the doors.
Update Time, ROUND 2 of A/C beat me down and now i'm headed into ROUND 3 on Wednesday.
The long story short, the condenser has a hairline crack at one of the fittings... just getting no love from this car lol. Oh well, it's coming along nicely and i've almost cleaned up all the nightmares. I called up the guy I bought the bumpers from and picked up a mint condition condenser and the lines coming off of it that go through the front bumper. Wednesday is round 3. The positives from this are I got the old pump removed along with the old drier and got the new ones installed along with a fresh a/c mount and pulley. I also got some fresh hardware from the parts car and replaced some of the crusty rusted bolts.
4 oz of fresh pag oil was added to the compressor and all the lines were removed and had compressed air ran through them to make sure no contaminants are in the system. I had air ran through the condenser and lines I picked up last night. One of the lines had a bunch of crap shoot out of it :p Thankfully I only had a little bit of refrigerant wasted as I heard it leak quickly then capped the can and put it aside for round 3.
Also before someone starts a huge debate in this thread, I spoke to the tech's at the Honda dealer I work at and they said it is not the end of the world to run pag oil with r12. I've read so many mixed reviews that pag oil is for r134a etc and the end result was always inconclusive. If the honda tech's are telling me i'll be fine then **** it. Time will tell if the compressor fails or if it will be fine. It's an old used compressor in an old used car. A friend did this exact combo in his old 2001 EL and said it worked fine for years with no issues blowing ice cold a/c.
[URL=http://s85.photobucket.com/user/prudzzz/media/20160424_160255_zpsrij7iawq.jpg.html][ /URL]
Update Time, ROUND 2 of A/C beat me down and now i'm headed into ROUND 3 on Wednesday.
The long story short, the condenser has a hairline crack at one of the fittings... just getting no love from this car lol. Oh well, it's coming along nicely and i've almost cleaned up all the nightmares. I called up the guy I bought the bumpers from and picked up a mint condition condenser and the lines coming off of it that go through the front bumper. Wednesday is round 3. The positives from this are I got the old pump removed along with the old drier and got the new ones installed along with a fresh a/c mount and pulley. I also got some fresh hardware from the parts car and replaced some of the crusty rusted bolts.
4 oz of fresh pag oil was added to the compressor and all the lines were removed and had compressed air ran through them to make sure no contaminants are in the system. I had air ran through the condenser and lines I picked up last night. One of the lines had a bunch of crap shoot out of it :p Thankfully I only had a little bit of refrigerant wasted as I heard it leak quickly then capped the can and put it aside for round 3.
Also before someone starts a huge debate in this thread, I spoke to the tech's at the Honda dealer I work at and they said it is not the end of the world to run pag oil with r12. I've read so many mixed reviews that pag oil is for r134a etc and the end result was always inconclusive. If the honda tech's are telling me i'll be fine then **** it. Time will tell if the compressor fails or if it will be fine. It's an old used compressor in an old used car. A friend did this exact combo in his old 2001 EL and said it worked fine for years with no issues blowing ice cold a/c.
[URL=http://s85.photobucket.com/user/prudzzz/media/20160424_160255_zpsrij7iawq.jpg.html]
[ /URL]Also can I have the part # for the trailing arm bushings?
05-03-2016, 10:07 AM
#112
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
I used r12 because it does not actually deplete ozone but mainly because it is all that is available over the counter at local retailers. The 0-rings are actually all in great shape, but I work at Honda so tomorrow when I install the new condenser i'm going to grab a few from the shop supplies bins and replace them for good measure. Been lazy about the car since i've been bombing around on the 2015 cbr600rr lately. The teg's been getting neglected.
05-04-2016, 05:31 PM
#113
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Replaced the condenser today. Thankfully I didn't have to remove the bumper or any of the lines. I simply removed the rad stay brackets, pulled the rad back a bit, slid the old crusty condenser out and replaced it with the like new unit. The old condenser had a lot of corrosion on it and a build up of old a/c oil where the leak was coming from. I slapped the can of r12 back on the low pressure side, filled it to 40psi like the instructions said, turned the car on to make sure pressure was consistent running full a/c (which it was), and within a minute I had extremely cold air coming through the vents. I took the car out for an hour drive blasting the a/c just to see if any issues would arise. Thankfully it is a success and now working perfectly. Also just a bit of a side note, only one can was needed to charge a completely empty system after using the correct 4oz of compressor oil.
I only have a few things remaining before I feel the car is completely up to date with maintenance. The rear trailing arm bushings, valve adjustment, cam seal, and replacement of the broken stud on the header (which is still sealed perfectly but i'm going to fix it for peace of mind). There is a small creek from the drivers seat belt buckle (needs some wd40) as well the arm rest hinge. Once i've taken care of all of these issues I can finally turn my attention to attempting to wet sand and polish the paint, paint the rims, lower the car and call it quits on this beater. It is almost bearable.
Just leaving this here for my future reference as it is very helpful for the trailing arm bushing install
https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br...mugen-1589298/
I only have a few things remaining before I feel the car is completely up to date with maintenance. The rear trailing arm bushings, valve adjustment, cam seal, and replacement of the broken stud on the header (which is still sealed perfectly but i'm going to fix it for peace of mind). There is a small creek from the drivers seat belt buckle (needs some wd40) as well the arm rest hinge. Once i've taken care of all of these issues I can finally turn my attention to attempting to wet sand and polish the paint, paint the rims, lower the car and call it quits on this beater. It is almost bearable.
Just leaving this here for my future reference as it is very helpful for the trailing arm bushing install
https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br...mugen-1589298/
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 05-04-2016 at 09:44 PM.
05-04-2016, 06:50 PM
#114
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Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Congrats always feels good to wrap up a project.
One thing I'd recommend adding to the list based on my own recent experience is either picking up a spare used set or sending your injectors out for service. I sent a set to RCeng for clean, calibration, and balance. Put them in this weekend and was amazed at the difference. If you have a set of old injectors leaking internally you'll have poor, sluggish throttle, slow start, and can end up with gas in your oil as it leaks down the cylinder walls. Ran me about $100 totally worth every penny for an old car.
One thing I'd recommend adding to the list based on my own recent experience is either picking up a spare used set or sending your injectors out for service. I sent a set to RCeng for clean, calibration, and balance. Put them in this weekend and was amazed at the difference. If you have a set of old injectors leaking internally you'll have poor, sluggish throttle, slow start, and can end up with gas in your oil as it leaks down the cylinder walls. Ran me about $100 totally worth every penny for an old car.
05-04-2016, 09:39 PM
#115
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ Completely agree and thank you. I've done injector servicing on some of my old preludes. I don't even think it was $100. I think I paid $60 and it came with the flow sheets. I haven't actually even been really driving the car. It has sat for weeks on end since i've been riding different bikes everyday. I might pull the injectors and get it done some time this summer.
What I plan on doing is simply finish up the remaining work and once everything is done i'm going to order some new tires for my rims, order some new shocks and springs to lower the car. I plan on buying a set of HID's, possibly a new steering wheel/hub then look into a set of Recaro seats. That will most likely happen some time down the road near fall though.
What I plan on doing is simply finish up the remaining work and once everything is done i'm going to order some new tires for my rims, order some new shocks and springs to lower the car. I plan on buying a set of HID's, possibly a new steering wheel/hub then look into a set of Recaro seats. That will most likely happen some time down the road near fall though.
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 05-05-2016 at 08:28 AM.
05-05-2016, 03:19 AM
#116
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
It's easy to lose motivation when you're working through the "boring" stuff. It will all be worth it though knowing you have a solid platform for some modifications. Sounds like you are getting close though. Looking forward to seeing what you do with the car from here.
05-05-2016, 10:05 PM
#117
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
I'm actually enjoying it quiet a bit. More so then when I built my last prelude. Stuff is actually getting accomplished rather than having to do 200 things where even after 12 hours of solid wrenching I was left with the feeling of not even putting a dent in the work load.
bigjohn1378 the part number is 52385-sr3-000
bigjohn1378 the part number is 52385-sr3-000
05-08-2016, 06:47 PM
#118
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Small update today. Did the valve lash, which went well. There were only a few valves that were out of spec (3 much to tight, 2 much to loose) that were producing any notable added noise. I went 0.005 on the intake side across the board and 0.008 on the exhaust side. Once the car fired up ultra quiet valve train achieved (not that it was really bad to start with).
I decided this would be as good a time as any to check the compression on the motor. I was very happy to see the spark plugs look great. I am not as thrilled with the compression test results. They are all 130-135 psi across the board which I know is fine since there is no major variance between cylinders. It is however on the lower side of spec 130-200 psi is where this motor (b18b1) should be sitting.
Valve train actually looks a lot cleaner after a few oil changes compared to how it previously looked when I first picked it up.
Timing belt looks to still be in great shape (as stated, the previous owner changed it but it is nice to see it is still fine 15,000km after the install)
The new cam seal installed to finally end the last little oil leak on this car
Action shot
More to come sooooooon
I decided this would be as good a time as any to check the compression on the motor. I was very happy to see the spark plugs look great. I am not as thrilled with the compression test results. They are all 130-135 psi across the board which I know is fine since there is no major variance between cylinders. It is however on the lower side of spec 130-200 psi is where this motor (b18b1) should be sitting.
Valve train actually looks a lot cleaner after a few oil changes compared to how it previously looked when I first picked it up.
Timing belt looks to still be in great shape (as stated, the previous owner changed it but it is nice to see it is still fine 15,000km after the install)
The new cam seal installed to finally end the last little oil leak on this car
Action shot
More to come sooooooon
05-09-2016, 09:48 PM
#120
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Small update today. Did the valve lash, which went well. There were only a few valves that were out of spec (3 much to tight, 2 much to loose) that were producing any notable added noise. I went 0.005 on the intake side across the board and 0.008 on the exhaust side. Once the car fired up ultra quiet valve train achieved (not that it was really bad to start with).
I decided this would be as good a time as any to check the compression on the motor. I was very happy to see the spark plugs look great. I am not as thrilled with the compression test results. They are all 130-135 psi across the board which I know is fine since there is no major variance between cylinders. It is however on the lower side of spec 130-200 psi is where this motor (b18b1) should be sitting.
Valve train actually looks a lot cleaner after a few oil changes compared to how it previously looked when I first picked it up.
Timing belt looks to still be in great shape (as stated, the previous owner changed it but it is nice to see it is still fine 15,000km after the install)
The new cam seal installed to finally end the last little oil leak on this car
Action shot
More to come sooooooon
I decided this would be as good a time as any to check the compression on the motor. I was very happy to see the spark plugs look great. I am not as thrilled with the compression test results. They are all 130-135 psi across the board which I know is fine since there is no major variance between cylinders. It is however on the lower side of spec 130-200 psi is where this motor (b18b1) should be sitting.
Valve train actually looks a lot cleaner after a few oil changes compared to how it previously looked when I first picked it up.
Timing belt looks to still be in great shape (as stated, the previous owner changed it but it is nice to see it is still fine 15,000km after the install)
The new cam seal installed to finally end the last little oil leak on this car
Action shot
More to come sooooooon
05-10-2016, 12:26 AM
#121
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
I'm actually enjoying it quiet a bit. More so then when I built my last prelude. Stuff is actually getting accomplished rather than having to do 200 things where even after 12 hours of solid wrenching I was left with the feeling of not even putting a dent in the work load.
bigjohn1378 the part number is 52385-sr3-000
bigjohn1378 the part number is 52385-sr3-000
05-11-2016, 05:22 PM
#125
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Thanks!
Update for today! I started with the paint restoration. It came out very good overall. Not as great as I wanted but it is a substantial difference compared to before. The paint before had lots of scratches, heavily faded, very dull and contaminated (not so much contaminates since I did clay bar it back in fall). Today I managed to do the passenger fender, passenger door, and passenger rear quarter panel. I'm going to tackle the hood, front bumper, driver fender, side skirts next time (most likely Sunday). It is a lot of work but since I started I need to finish or the car will look ridiculous lol. Of course it also is making it look drastically better. I'm hoping to have this part of the project finished up in the next 2 weeks.
Pretty straight forward process
-Wash car/clay car
-Wet sand with 1500-2000 (dish soap in water)
-Tape off everything
-Dry everything off
-I used Griots stage 1 polish followed up stage 2 polish
-Apply Griots paint sealant (by hand and let it sit for an hour)
-Apply wax (Autogleam and let it haze)
-Wipe off and look at yourself in the shine
I think the car has some potential after this days work.
