turbob18si

Im swapping a 96 gsr motor into my buddies 91 DA. A few lil issues have come up. Im reusing the harness from his car and already swapped dizzy plugs on the vtec dizzy, and swapped in obd0 injectors and alternator to work with the harness plugs but on the back of the LS block there were 3 sensors and the gsr block only has two and only one is a match. Second problem, the ecu he gave me to use is a pr3-j00 from a jdm 92 integra, wouldnt that make it obd1 not 0? Would that ecu work without a jumper harness? any help would be greatly appreciated guys

TIA

Ricextacy

im about to do the same thing, but 90 DA w/97b18c1 lol. ima need a follow up on this..
post some pic if u figured out the problem.

Bump!!

civicflow

One of the plugs that was on the back of the stock motor is now located on the thermostat housing on the b18c.

kmaz93da

for gsr-in the thermostat its the fan switch, back of block is knock sensor,and oil pressure.. if ecu has 3 grey plugs/holes..obd1


Modified by kmaz93da at 1:06 PM 4/23/2008

turbob18si

ok one plug remedied, does anyone have any idea on the ecu? I will try to post pics of back of both blocks shortly

turbob18si

ok I have the fan switch plugged in, and matched up the single wire plug so just one wire left to determine.
Heres the back of the ls block, Im pointing to the sensor in question

and here is the sensor on the gsr block it only has one pin in it compared to the two pin sensor on the ls


its almost together guys thanks for all the help, then tackling the ecu issue

turbob18si

come on guys were almost there

GsrIntegra789

the sensor on the back of the gsr block is a Knock sensor and it will have to be wired into the ecu..correct me if im wrong. but thats what i can tell by ur pictures. if i were u i would just get the ecu chipped and have the tuner skip out on the knock sensor

jdmland

Yes that is the knock sensor, if u have hondata/etc. u can dissable it.
becarefull with that sensor they break off very easy.

jdmland

U asked if the ecu would plug in without a jumper harness? thats easy if it dosen't plug in, i guess it won't work, if it does your good to go.

turbob18si

well I guess he will be driving with a check engine light for a bit then, I know there had to be a way to do this before chipping was readily available. Lets try to think back to the old school ways.


Modified by turbob18si at 11:02 AM 4/24/2008

turbob18si

swapping plugs on the dizzy isnt gonna work is it? I read that there were different teeth counts on the inside between obd0 and obd1? any help guys

ChaseIntegra

When I did the swap in my DA, I just bought a "jdmshit" chipped ECU. That was the best & easiest alternative I found.

jdmland

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbob18si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swapping plugs on the dizzy isnt gonna work is it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not unless u have a jumper harness, otherwise your gonna need to rewire the dizzy to ecu.
Make it easy and buy a jumper harness
http://rywire.com/store/9091-i...33dfe

turbob18si

jumper harness and obd1 ecu it is I guess, anybody wanna buy a pr3-j00 ecu?

super jdm yo

i think this will help you out.

i got it from here http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/15.html

This is an OBD-2 engine from 96-up Integra GSRs. This motor is identical to that of the 94-95 GSR, just OBD-2 instead of OBD-1. Mileage on this motor will vary, because it is a US Spec motor and we don’t have to pull our motors at 40,000 miles. Price on this motor will vary as well. Sometimes you can find a deal for about $3000, other times you may pay up to $4000 for one of these motors. Many people prefer to go with the 90-91 JDM B16A not only because it is non-OBD, but because of the lower mileage and cheaper price. These are the only items of concern with this swap:

• Wiring Harness-You will need to use your existing B18A1 cream plug wiring harness. It will plug into everything on the motor except for the distributor and injectors. And just like the B17A1 engine, you’ll have to add the 3 wires for VTEC, knock sensor wire, and the second oxygen sensor. Also, the temperature switch on this motor is located on the thermostat housing unlike your B18A1 which is located on the back side of the block, so you will have to cut and extend the two wire plug to reach the thermostat housing. But this is fairly easy. The black plug harness that comes with the OBD-2 B18C1 cannot be used, but can be sold for $100-$125.
• Motor Mounts-Use your existing B18A1 mounts. They slightly different than the B18C1 mounts.
• Distributor-You can use your B18A distributor but the leg towards the front of the car has to be cut off to allow clearance for the VTEC purge assembly. You will only have two bolts holding your distributor, but that is adequate. You can do this or your other choice is to buy a non-OBD VTEC distributor (PR3). You can find them on the net for as little as $100, but most are priced at about $150. The OBD-2 Distributor that came with the motor cannot be used but can be sold for $150-$200.
• Intake Manifold-This is the biggest difference when using this motor. This is the only Honda motor that has the “upside down” intake manifold. It also has secondary butterflies in the dual intake manifold runners. What I recommend doing is getting rid of this manifold and TB entirely and getting the Skunk2 Intake Manifold (pre-modified to fit the P72 Head). ). Because you cannot use the P72 ECU that controls the secondaries in the intake manifold (that only the B18C1 has), this is the best solution. Then use an ITR TB or your LS TB (maybe bored out by RC Engineering). You can use an ITR Intake manifold but it needs to be modified to fit (by a machine shop). Another reason for using the ITR or Skunk2 Intake manifold is for the Intake piping. You can use your stock or 90-91 after market (AEM, Injen, Akimoto, etc.) and it will fit perfectly. If you use the B18C1 manifold, you have to have intake piping custom made to fit. I have heard of people using the B18C1 manifold, but they had the butterflies welded open or something to that effect. Doesn’t sound like a good idea.
• Injectors-You will need to use your existing non-OBD B18A1 injectors. The OBD-2 injectors have a different plug on them made for the b1ack OBD-2 harness. Other than that, the injectors are identical.
• ECU-This motor will come with an OBD-2 VTEC ECU (P72). You cannot use this ECU with your harness that is inside your vehicle (non-OBD). So sell it and buy a non-OBD VTEC ECU (PR3, PWO). Either one of those ECU’s will run the OBD-2 B18C1 (with Skunk2 Intake Manifold) perfectly with your B18A1 harness.
• Transmission- This engine also comes equipped with a hydraulic transmission, which either needs to be swapped out for a short geared cable transmission (J1, S1) or I believe Place Racing makes a hydraulic to cable converter that you can use. But then you are talking about more money. Again you can buy a YS1 short geared transmission, but you will need a clutch assembly from a 92-93 Integra or if the B18C1 motor came with a clutch and flywheel, you can use those.
• Clutch-Depending on what transmission you go with (90-91 or 92-up cable transmissions) will determine what clutch you should get. If you get a 91 or older cable transmission you will need a 90-91 Integra clutch assembly. If you go with the 92 up YS1 Cable transmission, you will need a 92 up Integra clutch assembly. Use the matching flywheel with the same clutch.

Below are things that I recommend doing while your motor is out and before you drop your B18C1 in:

• Replace the water pump & thermostat (depending on miles)
• Replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner (depending on miles)
• Replace Cap, Rotor, and Spark plugs
• Adjust valves
• Replace valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace PCV valve