CKnight90

Well its not a knock at idle. Kind of a ticking/knock sound around 3500-4000rpm. I'm assuming rod bearing. Is my engine done? Should bearings be replaced or is it a lost cause? Time for new swap? What damage is being done to my engine while this bearing is bad? Drive it til i get/need new swap? Tbh I think winter driving killed the rod bearing, or i could be wrong, just a guess!


b16a2

B_Swapped93

Sticky LMA's or valve tap...check/set lash to spec then come back I don't think it's knock post a vid.

CKnight90

well its coming from the bottom part of the block. No where near head.

m4xwellmurd3r

Drain the oik and cut open the oil filter. I suggest you not start the car up until youve done this and verify if there is metal in the filter or not.

If you suspect bearing damage dont fire it up until you csn verify if it is a bearing

CKnight90

So if it is bad rod bearing then there will be medal in the oil filter. And this way of checking is 100% sure thing? Any other way of checking thats easy? Where would I cut the oil filter? Cut it right in half?

In past thread i ask about a b16a. If my b16 is a loss cause then I'm going to go ahead and get that other b16.

I'll take a vid tomorrow. What should I display in the vid? Started, rev high and idle? lmk what I should be recording!

Thanks!

m4xwellmurd3r

Dont record anything. Dont start it even. Drain the oil and cut the filter carefully like in the link. There will be metsl powder and flakes in the filter element

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1530354

Hugh_Jorgens

Winter driving doesn't cause rod knock.

-was your oil level ever extremely low?
-is your oil light on? (Almost always comes or flickers for rod knock)
-do you have a heavy duty clutch?
-do you leave the clutch pressed all the way down for entire stop lights?
-How many mile on the engine?
-Have you ever over revved it?

These are all common questions for diagnosing rod knock.
-

CKnight90

Soon as this damn SD weather gets nice i'll get a chance to change oil or have a shop do it(but really don't trust shops). But if I have a shop do it I'll have them give me the oil filter.

Hugh_Jorgens...
Oil level always is at the 2nd hole on dipstick, so always at correct level.
Never seen my oil light come on, how do I know if that even works?
When I got the car I was told by PO its a stage one. At one point it was running 8 psi but now is NA. The clutch catches well at high rpm.
Sometimes I leave the clutch pedal down at stop lights, I know bad habbit, but most the time I'm pretty good at not holding it in at a light/stop sign. What damage does it do when it's held in for too long? I've always wondered.
Mileage on the engine is unknown.
Over reved it? Like past 8,200? Rev limit was always at 8,200 even when boosted. It's running p2t. I hit rev limit about 3-4 times in 7 days on the way to work on the high way. In town only go up to 3,500.

Thanks for asking! Hope my answers help and are detailed.

Hugh_Jorgens

The oil light should turn on momentarily when you turn the key to the on position. Actually, I think it stays on if you don't actually start the car.

Holding a clutch down for longer than needed causes thrust bearing wear.

If your oil light works and doesn't come on, it's a good sign that your engine is NOT knocking.

Check for an exhaust leak at the header/manifold. If it's stock, take off the heat shield and look for soot underneath. Rev the car a little while you're in front of the engine bay to see if you can pinpoint any leaks.
Also LOL @ "crappy SD weather".

CKnight90

Yeah I noticed the oil light stays on if i dont start car.

What's the thrust bearing exactly? Can a heavy duty clutch cause wear also? Jw I'm still learning

My light has never come on during engine operation that i've noticed. I'm pretty sure its knocking.

Why would I look for soot?

I can hear the knock under the Intake mani.

Yeah It's been really cold or snowy here lately. OTherwise I'd get jack my car up and fix stuff.

thx for your replies so far.

Hugh_Jorgens

Ohhhhh.....South Dakota. I thought you meant San Diego. I was making fun of anyone thinking San Diego had bad weather lol. Mybad.

Anyway, yes a HD clutch can cause thrust bearing wear. Thrust bearings control crank thrust...or the movement of the crank backwards and forwards (relative to the engine block).

Your car may have a rattling catalytic converter from broken substrate material. Or an exhaust leak.

I would have it checked before you start tearing into it.

CKnight90

Well its my rod that's knocking. In Sd your not required to have a cat. No lose exhaust parts, so couldn't b that. What damage am I doing to my engine if I drive. I'm looking at a replacement b16 or b16a2 complete block rebuilt with b16a bottom end without head though. But can use my old head. Or save up for a hmo one.

Hugh_Jorgens

How did you determine it was a rod? I'm very surprised that you have a knocking bearing, but no oil pressure light?

If it is knocking, driving it will make it worse. If its JUST a rod bearing, you can replace the crank and rods/bearings and be good.....if you stop driving it.

Eventually, the rod will come through the block after it lets go. That's ultimately what happens. That's if the loss in oil pressure from a cleared out bearing (apparently no oil pressure light, though) doesn't take out other bearings and cause the engine to not run.

Hugh_Jorgens

You said in SD, cats are not required. Are you assuming that your car came without one? Or do you know you don't have one?

No rattling heat shields? No shift linkage hitting a heat shield? Loose flywheel or clutch bolts indicated by a weird feeling clutch pedal?

CKnight90

At one point my car was turbo'd. It had a fake cat on it. once I took off the turbo headers. I had to get a welder to weld my new NA headers and downpipe on. I told him to do what ever it took to put the new downpipe and headers on. So he deleted the fake cat. South Dakota doesn't require cat converters due to no emmisions laws, but I do have an exhaust. It's 2 1/2 inch all the way through. When it gets nice out I'll jack the car up, start it up, take a video of up top and below. To me it sounds like a hammer hitting medal. What makes the oil like come on? A sensor? How do i check that sensor? My oil pressure sensor is hooked up. How do i test if what ever sensor is bad to detirmin if its gone bad?

Hugh_Jorgens

If your oil light comes on if you turn the key on but leave the engine off...then the sensor is sending a signal.

Did you find metal in your oil?

Hugh_Jorgens

I've had a few cars that started knocking. All of them had oil pressure lights on at idle. All of them had silvery looking oil. Other people's cars that started knocking had the same symptoms.

For a car to be knocking and the oil pressure to be normal enough not to set a light is very strange/rare. I can't think of a case where that has happened.

Piston slap is a possibility, though. Does the car burn a lot of oil?

CKnight90

it sounds exactly like this.. and ill change the oil soon. weather still crappy

Swanky_things

are you sure the sound your hearing is coming from the bottom end? also I am confused about your description of the need to weld on the manifold and cat/delete? I don't see where there needed to be welding it doesn't sound right to me.... you take the turbo manifold off grab a new gasket and through the new manifold on plus the cat/delete which is essentialy a cat with nothing in it aka test pipe... I am running the exact same set up b16a (not a2-a2 is usdm a-is jdm same) same motor essentialy the same motor... I have also spun a bearing on my single cam motor before putting the b16 in so from experience I can tell you the oil light might not come on at time of inflicted damage but my motor sceased in 24 hrs of initial damage.... could off been 48 or 72 hrs but my first indication of a problem was when I was cruising at night and when I went to go through the rpms it wouldn't go above 5500 got it home just confused about why it wouldn't rev higher... the next day driving with a buddy it felt sluggish a few blocks from his house it stalled then barely limped it to his house and it died right there... the light came on when the motor seased so I don't know about about that oil light they ive herd theyre kinda useless... but I don't suspect it to be a knock at the crank or rods I feel as if it would probably sease after some driving with in days .. although it being a previously boosted motor and not all damage is the same and if your so sertain it is a sound coming from your bottom end I would sugest doing the following ....

raise your car up a good amount so you have room too look around and get some good lighting under there... ramps at least... it doesn't sound like you have a lift at your disposal... or keep jacking it up one side at a time till you get a good foot of clearance to be able to move around under the car.. make sure to secure it well have a buddy around incase of emergency

drain all the oil as you was previously told.. cut the filter right in half .... examine the oil youll see like metal flake like a metal flake paint job... that will defenetly indicate internal metal disintegration

remove your oil pan should be I think a 10 or 12 mill( like most of Honda fasteners lol) it is a very simple task you pull them bolts one at a time store them in a cup or a container so you don't loose any and just pull the oil pan right off(obviously drain oil first!! so you don't get all sludgy in your parents driveway)

once you got the oil pan off take a look at your connecting rods from underneath the vehicle and try to shift them by hand or by lightly trying to shift them with a breaker bar or a large flat head screw driver.

if you have any play or shifting in the rod connecting to the crank theres your prob crank rod bearing..... but if you get to a point of physical shifting being achived by hand or light prying then by that point I would assume you would have heavy metal deposits in your oil and really don't see your motor even being able to survive even mild level of driving for more then a few days...

which leads me to some what side with HUGH JORGENS and reading your description of what I belive to be unnecessary welding on your exaust components which I don't know much about it might ve been called for I don't know your exact situation but just seems like it might not have been necessary which would also lead me to conclude exaust leak but if you say it sound like metal knocking it is a distinctive sound I wouldn't want to dout you on that

how many days have you been driving the vehicle since first hearing (the knock) and are you still able to drive it and your still driving it? and have you noticed loss in performance over time?

CKnight90

Ok, like I said, soon as the weather gets nice I'll be able to work on it. Rather not freeze my butt off. Ever since I've heard this knocking I've drove it(because it is my only car and DD). I've drove it about 60 miles so far with the issue. Performance issue...I wouldn't say so much, haven't really got on it since I heard that knocking. I stay around 3500rpm. As for the exhaust piping I guess I can check again. Headers, downpipe connection meets around halfway in front of the block, about where you can look behind and down the intake mani is where the flex piping welded to the rest of the 2 1/2 inch piping then leads back to the car to the exhaust. Hope that's descriptive. I'll report back with pics and a vid!