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Hello everyone.
Here's my build thread for my 97 Integra RS. This will be a looong build as i am somewhat limited in resources right now but hopefully it will be a learning experience for me and also for anyone out there doing a similar build. I've been already gathering parts for the past 2yrs and now its being barely being started.
Car is a 1997 Integra RS... nothing too shabby, the usual B18B only that this is an Automatic. car has 196k miles and while the engine is still strong i got a feeling my tranny might be starting to give up. I can "sniff a "burnt clutch" smell after driving for a while and i think this is causing engine overheating in the summer... so its time for a change..
At the moment the car is 100% stock minus an AEM Short Ram
The project consists in 3 phases.. 1-basic engine build and Auto to Manual Conversion (to at least get me going for a while).
2-Better Engine upgrades and basic suspension/chassis mods.
I would like to do road race, circuit type racing. Drag racing at this moment has fall into a boring category for me, not that i wont do it from time to time but id like to test the curves and corners more at this time. so im building not so much for high revving or high peak power.
Havent decided yet if i will stay NA with a 240-250 whp goal or Supercharged with a 300whp goal.
3- paint and cosmetic work, inside and out. Since it an RS i thought it would be the perfect platform for a Type R replica so thats what id like to shoot for. Simple R look inside and out.
Heres my engine setup for phase 1. I already got most of this stuff.
Block:
B20 out of a 99 CRV (motor had like 70k miles when pulled out). Bored to 85mm and honed.
YCP 85mm ITR Pistons (12.5cr at sea level... 11.8 CR at my current altitude)
COMETIC .040"Head Gasket
KMS Block Guard
Stock LS rods with ARP bolts
ACL RACE Bearings
KMS Billet Type R Girdle
GSR Baffle
GSR Oil Pickup
Morosso Oil pan
Head:
GSR Head, cams and valvetrain (All stock for now)
Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold
Type R 62mm TB
Stock b18B Exhaust manifold (Will reuse from current engine... also thinking on a stock Type R exhaust manifold)
Stock Exhaust.
Comptech/CT Eng. Ice box with 3"Type R intake tube ( Pending to get)
Tranny:
GSR Tranny
Type R LSD
LS 5th gear swap
Hasport Billet motor Mounts with Auto to Manual trans. mount
GSR Shift Linkage and lines
Competition Clutch Stage 1 clutch
Competition Clutch 12lb Flywheel
P73-003 ECU
Stock Injectors
will reuse P/S, A/C and other sensors from current engine as needed.
That should complete Phase 1 build.. Expecting around 185 whp with this...
Phase 2 will consist of:
Porting Head & port Matching IM (will prob get a spare head and send it out for work)
70mm TB with SK2 Ultra street IM
Upgraded Valvetrain
D DTECH Cams
440 cc injectors (If i stay NA and 91 octane)
1000CC injectors (If i go Supercharge or E85)
Upgraded header (depending if NA or SC ill make the decision on which header)
Upgrade Exhaust.. 2.5"or 3"depending on NA or SC
Hondata and tuning
Basic suspension mods such as chassis reinforcements, sway bar plus spring & Struts.
Im hoping to reach 240 + NA with this or at least 300whp if SC
Some pics to follow later.
All input good or bad welcome.. Id rather know what works and what doesnt now that the engine is still in pieces.
This is the car as it sits right now... it had all tan interior. But i already swapped black dash and all interior panels. Will finish the rest later on phase 3.
Very nice I'm in this!. I too am building a RS but mine is a 98 in black 5spd original with 180k with a 94-97 frontend and going itr rep with it as well. 96-97 itr specifically in black so may get the 4x114.3 itr suspension but unlike you I'm keeping the tan cause I like to be different an love tan an still it's a RS. Check my thread out on "Teresa". Cool goals love the forest green what you going to do with the ls then?. I rather do lsvtec with a built vtec head you can easy get 230whp n/a an be safer cause I don't trust b20s but you already did all that to it so cool. Me I'm going Ls turbo stock internals for now then build it later. Great idea on the girdle . You getting arp gsr main studs to right might as well while you at it.
with that 85x89mm you can put down good power...BUT you did skimp in one extremely important area the rods L/S rods are weak and don't hold up even in comparison to stock gsr/ITR rods. A supercharger on a b-series isn't a popular idea it yields **** results on a k-series they do well but a turbo b-series is a solid set up. On my last build I got 248/162 out of a 85x89mm b20V with pro 1 cams 12:1 C/R and all the supporting mods. High comp and boost don't mix well tho, so I would suggest finding a cheap ls block if you want forced induction. my current build is a boosted R.
Thanks for your post. I am going to sell the LS or whats left of it as im re using some sensors. Ill probably use that money to fund some stuff of the next phase.
About the ARP mains im still on time to do it but i already bought new oem bolts and since i wont be crazy revving this engine i thought oem should be enough... or not? Any imput? I rather be safe than sorry.
I chose b20 because of driveability, displacement and because i want a torquier feel plus better response on the midrange.
Heres the pic of the girdle.. added for strength and rigidity of the bottom end. Block was sent to machine shop to check for line bore and fit of the girdle.. making sure nothing gets out of line..
Heres the tranny.. GSR with Type R LSD... opened up, inspected internals and swapped and LS 5th gear for more suitable cruising. Internals were cherry! Very well maintained transmission, all synchros, forks and gear teeths in great shape. Paid a good penny but worth it.
with that 85x89mm you can put down good power...BUT you did skimp in one extremely important area the rods L/S rods are weak and don't hold up even in comparison to stock gsr/ITR rods. A supercharger on a b-series isn't a popular idea it yields **** results on a k-series they do well but a turbo b-series is a solid set up. On my last build I got 248/162 out of a 85x89mm b20V with pro 1 cams 12:1 C/R and all the supporting mods. High comp and boost don't mix well tho, so I would suggest finding a cheap ls block if you want forced induction. my current build is a boosted R.
Thanks for the imput... well thats a good point to consider and that could make me stay away from SC. Good thing i still have time.. However im not looking for 400whp on a SC.. i was just watching today a stock internal b16 with a kraftwerks SC and 309whp. The thing moved really good and still with stock rods. How would b16 rods compare to ls or b20 strength wise?
B_swapped93 has a great point high comp and boost don't mix well and I rather have built a ls block easy for n/a and makes good torque dude midrange an cheaper to do with your stock ls block originally in the dc4 . Ls rods are stronger then b16 rods dude and a stock internal b16 can easy handle even 350whp on a good tune. I seen that video too I rather turbo then supercharge just my opinion and block guards nasty ever heard of the css from cnc werx? It's wicked man and i don't trust block guards fot my life an can constrict coolant watch this then
CNC WERX CSS VS GOLDEN EAGLE BLOCK GAURD :FITMENT:
Keep your stock sleeves still. That will be my plan with my ls block aftrr I build for those reasons too of the girdle more strength an rigidity for the higher whp and revs man . I'm going to finf a gsr girdle an main caps then arp main studs an go align bore it after I'm satisfied with stock internal ls turbo.
Ive seen the CSS and its impressive the results theyve had.. will consider this on the next block.. lol.. i could even keep my ls block and just send it to them, then get rods, balance everything and then supercharge the new block.. thanks
Alright heres the b20 engine before disassembly...
And block back from machine shop with BG installed...
I have used this block guard before on previous boosted Sohc build with great success.. 2yrs of daily driving in 90 degree weather with no issues and consistent mid 12 sec runs... so im crossing my fingers that it will work good again...
Ive seen the CSS and its impressive the results theyve had.. will consider this on the next block.. lol.. i could even keep my ls block and just send it to them, then get rods, balance everything and then supercharge the new block.. thanks
Lol oh I'm in for that man next engine build . See the thing is about block guards is they base it on one block then mass produce it which not all engines are the same so as I'm seeing some places are loose an tight which I'm crossing fingers for you too bro . Any more pics od the RS the body looks uber cleaned compared to mine !!
It has its dings and stuff.. i do see some little rust spots but nothing major yet.. the previous owner was from Cali so i can see how living near the sea could have caused some of these rust spots. . My paint is faded on the front of the fenders and the roof has also started to fade.. i will probably plasti dip the whole car just to make it look a lil better while i can get the funds for a paint job.. lol like in 3 yrs ha ha... ill get some more pics of the exterior tomorrow.
It has its dings and stuff.. i do see some little rust spots but nothing major yet.. the previous owner was from Cali so i can see how living near the sea could have caused some of these rust spots. . My paint is faded on the front of the fenders and the roof has also started to fade.. i will probably plasti dip the whole car just to make it look a lil better while i can get the funds for a paint job.. lol like in 3 yrs ha ha... ill get some more pics of the exterior tomorrow.
Okay then nice but hey rust spots are better then rust holes and quarter panels that need replacing an a roof that is bubbling right where the windshield is man still f-ing clean dude lol . Okay then will be tuning in on those pics man .
My block was done at CSS as well, Jeff does great work and is highly recommended should you ever need a replacement block. Mine was bored to 84.5mm and stuffed with eagle rods, wiseco pistons, and hcl race bearings.
My block was done at CSS as well, Jeff does great work and is highly recommended should you ever need a replacement block. Mine was bored to 84.5mm and stuffed with eagle rods, wiseco pistons, and hcl race bearings.
Build is looking good!
Do they have available blocks there so i dont have to ship mine?
I am getting the Css done to my b18 block. At the moment the block is at CNC werx, I'll get it back in 3 weeks and can't wait to put it to the test.
can't wait to see it when it comes back too bro lol and me send one to them !!!. I met them in person cnc werx this yr at hondaday E-town an jeff is cool an smart .
Originally Posted by cisco_kid
Thanks... and yeah the rods have been upgraded with ARP rod bolts.
Smart man or girl lol !!
Originally Posted by cisco_kid
Do they have available blocks there so i dont have to ship mine?
They do but be more fun and cheaper if you sent yours.
Well some other stuff that were purchased.. im trying as much as possible to stay with OEM and new parts on this build.. so i got these brand new..
GSR oil baffle, New water and oil pump, GSR oil pickup plus new bolts..
Morosso Oil Pan.. its the stock version, tapped already just in case i decide to boost its ready.
And my friend, whos doing most of the build has the valve cover stripped and ready to be sent to powdercoat tomorrow.. were doing a Safety Yellow (Spoon Color) on it..
Nice build Brotha can't wait to see the final product , I had started building a LS/V for my integra but changed my plans this time around I've owned about 3 lsV setups in my years, all was very fast but never to reliable since I like to travel in my cars lol that's the reason why I'm going with a tuned itr & save myself some bread lol, ur setup is gonna kick some *** bro �� expect good numbers.
Small update..
Well i got some slow days at work coming so before it gets too cold outside (no garage) i am going to start plasti dipping the car little by little (while motor gets built too)... got tired of looking at my faded paint and scratches so i ordered some Metalic Anthracite Gray plasti dip... probably will do hood,roof and rear hatch black though... dunno yet..
10-27-2014, 02:06 PM
97 Integra RS build... Auto to manual
I'm in this!. I too am building a RS 
but mine is a 98 in black 5spd original with 180k with a 94-97 frontend and going itr rep with it as well. 96-97 itr specifically in black so may get the 4x114.3 itr suspension but unlike you I'm keeping the tan cause I like to be different an love tan an still it's a RS. Check my thread out on "Teresa". Cool goals love the forest green what you going to do with the ls then?. I rather do lsvtec with a built vtec head you can easy get 230whp n/a an be safer cause I don't trust b20s but you already did all that to it so cool. Me I'm going Ls turbo stock internals for now then build it later. Great idea on the girdle 
. You getting arp gsr main studs to right might as well while you at it.
. Ls rods are stronger then b16 rods dude and a stock internal b16 can easy handle even 350whp on a good tune. I seen that video too I rather turbo then supercharge just my opinion and block guards nasty ever heard of the css from cnc werx? It's wicked man and i don't trust block guards fot my life an can constrict coolant watch this then
Re: 97 Integra RS build... Auto to manual
. See the thing is about block guards is they base it on one block then mass produce it which not all engines are the same so as I'm seeing some places are loose an tight which I'm crossing fingers for you too bro 
!!
still f-ing clean dude 
lol . Okay then will be tuning in on those pics man .
can't wait to see it when it comes back too bro lol 
, I had started building a LS/V for my integra but changed my plans this time around I've owned about 3 lsV setups in my years, all was very fast but never to reliable since I like to travel in my cars lol that's the reason why I'm going with a tuned itr & save myself some bread lol, ur setup is gonna kick some *** bro �� expect good numbers.
