91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
#1
91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
Having a couple issues with my 91 ls.....I recently replaced the blower motor due to the fact that my fan was not working...also had to replace the blower motor resistor because after replacing the motor all I had was high. My current issue I can not get the windshield to defrost properly. In all other cars I've driven I let the car warm up turn defrost on once the windshield is clear im good to go never have any issues again. In my ls I turn on the defrost setting and put it on the none recirc setting and the windshield barely clears up. Later on while I'm driving the fan seems to go into overdrive mode and kicks in and defrosts the window then turns off. Windshield fogs up again. Any ideas? Also driver side and passenger side window defrosts just enough I can see into the side mirrors. Second issue is leaking water on the passenger side. Its not as bad as it was before I replaced the blower moter but I'm still getting water dripping in. Did some googling seems one cause could be passenger side cowl leak? Any help would greatly appreciated. Also on a side note when I replaced the blower motor the new one I purchased didn't have the inset connector like the old one just two wires black and blue. I took apart the old one and ripped the connector out of there. What i didn't pay attention to was where to put what wire where both had positive signal on the motor itself so I thought I'd be ok. Could this be causing an issue?
#2
Re: 91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
Yeah you have a cowl leak, you should replace that ASAP as that's what caused your old blower motor to fail, water leaking on a electrical part. Also do you have hot air? Dont expect miracles from the you defroster I would just ice scrape for a minute.
#3
Old Fart
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Re: 91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
It is a DC motor the only diff, it will make if wired "backwards" is motor would run backwards, [suck instead of blowing air].
Please explain, "Later on while I'm driving the fan seems to go into overdrive mode and kicks in and defrosts the window then turns off" does the blower motor stop working or just no air from defrost vents? 94
Please explain, "Later on while I'm driving the fan seems to go into overdrive mode and kicks in and defrosts the window then turns off" does the blower motor stop working or just no air from defrost vents? 94
#4
Yes I definitely have hot air now I had it before it just didn't come through into the car unless I was going faster then 45-50mph. I will definitely order the parts needed and fix that too.
#5
It is a DC motor the only diff, it will make if wired "backwards" is motor would run backwards, [suck instead of blowing air].
Please explain, "Later on while I'm driving the fan seems to go into overdrive mode and kicks in and defrosts the window then turns off" does the blower motor stop working or just no air from defrost vents? 94
Please explain, "Later on while I'm driving the fan seems to go into overdrive mode and kicks in and defrosts the window then turns off" does the blower motor stop working or just no air from defrost vents? 94
#6
Old Fart
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Re: 91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
Then my guess is, mode control is not working, possibly problem, [electrical] with HVAC head, [heater control panel] the mode control motor itself or a mecanical problem with the mode levers, [defrost mode lever in particular]
#11... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
It may even be one of the doors not working properly.
Even though it does not look like anything big enough can get down the defrost vents, and into the heater unit, they do.
The problem is, to check you will need to pull the dash and heater box.
Lets hope it's something else.
I would start by checking the mode control motor and levers, you can do that by looking up from under the drivers side of the dash, all the above is on the left side of the heater unit.
Unplug the MCM and spray a little contact cleaner or penetrating oil, [WD40 will work] into both the plug and socket, plug it in and unplug it a few times to clean the connetions.
Make sure all levers move "correctly", nothing loose, bent, broken or disconnected.
All the above assumes that the blower motor is "weak", when in defrost mode, because of a restriction, [have you tried it with both fresh and recirculate] or air is redirected, [also coming out vents or floor].
If the blower motor actually slows down, you have a connection problem, blower motor speed has very little to do with engine RPM or car speed, a slight bit more voltage from the alt., but hardly noticeable.
Check if changing fan speed and back does anything.
Check heater fan speed switch ground, and heater control ground, [two black leads at heater control]. 94
#11... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
It may even be one of the doors not working properly.
Even though it does not look like anything big enough can get down the defrost vents, and into the heater unit, they do.
The problem is, to check you will need to pull the dash and heater box.
Lets hope it's something else.
I would start by checking the mode control motor and levers, you can do that by looking up from under the drivers side of the dash, all the above is on the left side of the heater unit.
Unplug the MCM and spray a little contact cleaner or penetrating oil, [WD40 will work] into both the plug and socket, plug it in and unplug it a few times to clean the connetions.
Make sure all levers move "correctly", nothing loose, bent, broken or disconnected.
All the above assumes that the blower motor is "weak", when in defrost mode, because of a restriction, [have you tried it with both fresh and recirculate] or air is redirected, [also coming out vents or floor].
If the blower motor actually slows down, you have a connection problem, blower motor speed has very little to do with engine RPM or car speed, a slight bit more voltage from the alt., but hardly noticeable.
Check if changing fan speed and back does anything.
Check heater fan speed switch ground, and heater control ground, [two black leads at heater control]. 94
#7
Then my guess is, mode control is not working, possibly problem, [electrical] with HVAC head, [heater control panel] the mode control motor itself or a mecanical problem with the mode levers, [defrost mode lever in particular]
#11... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
It may even be one of the doors not working properly.
Even though it does not look like anything big enough can get down the defrost vents, and into the heater unit, they do.
The problem is, to check you will need to pull the dash and heater box.
Lets hope it's something else.
I would start by checking the mode control motor and levers, you can do that by looking up from under the drivers side of the dash, all the above is on the left side of the heater unit.
Unplug the MCM and spray a little contact cleaner or penetrating oil, [WD40 will work] into both the plug and socket, plug it in and unplug it a few times to clean the connetions.
Make sure all levers move "correctly", nothing loose, bent, broken or disconnected.
All the above assumes that the blower motor is "weak", when in defrost mode, because of a restriction, [have you tried it with both fresh and recirculate] or air is redirected, [also coming out vents or floor].
If the blower motor actually slows down, you have a connection problem, blower motor speed has very little to do with engine RPM or car speed, a slight bit more voltage from the alt., but hardly noticeable.
Check if changing fan speed and back does anything.
Check heater fan speed switch ground, and heater control ground, [two black leads at heater control]. 94
#11... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
It may even be one of the doors not working properly.
Even though it does not look like anything big enough can get down the defrost vents, and into the heater unit, they do.
The problem is, to check you will need to pull the dash and heater box.
Lets hope it's something else.
I would start by checking the mode control motor and levers, you can do that by looking up from under the drivers side of the dash, all the above is on the left side of the heater unit.
Unplug the MCM and spray a little contact cleaner or penetrating oil, [WD40 will work] into both the plug and socket, plug it in and unplug it a few times to clean the connetions.
Make sure all levers move "correctly", nothing loose, bent, broken or disconnected.
All the above assumes that the blower motor is "weak", when in defrost mode, because of a restriction, [have you tried it with both fresh and recirculate] or air is redirected, [also coming out vents or floor].
If the blower motor actually slows down, you have a connection problem, blower motor speed has very little to do with engine RPM or car speed, a slight bit more voltage from the alt., but hardly noticeable.
Check if changing fan speed and back does anything.
Check heater fan speed switch ground, and heater control ground, [two black leads at heater control]. 94
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#8
Old Fart
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Re: 91 Integra LS Defroster/Water Leaking
Fresh air will be cooler the recirc. , for obvious reason.
Unless you have added more load, there is no need to upgrade the grounds, [although it can't hurt].
Redoing the main grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] is a good idea and a must on older cars, once the grounds are done take the car to a batt./alt. shop, [Interstate Batteries] and have the batt. and charging system checked, it will be a free test and only takes a few min. 94
Unless you have added more load, there is no need to upgrade the grounds, [although it can't hurt].
Redoing the main grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] is a good idea and a must on older cars, once the grounds are done take the car to a batt./alt. shop, [Interstate Batteries] and have the batt. and charging system checked, it will be a free test and only takes a few min. 94
#9
Fresh air will be cooler the recirc. , for obvious reason.
Unless you have added more load, there is no need to upgrade the grounds, [although it can't hurt].
Redoing the main grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] is a good idea and a must on older cars, once the grounds are done take the car to a batt./alt. shop, [Interstate Batteries] and have the batt. and charging system checked, it will be a free test and only takes a few min. 94
Unless you have added more load, there is no need to upgrade the grounds, [although it can't hurt].
Redoing the main grounds, [disconnect/clean/reconnect] is a good idea and a must on older cars, once the grounds are done take the car to a batt./alt. shop, [Interstate Batteries] and have the batt. and charging system checked, it will be a free test and only takes a few min. 94
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