FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

So i was on the freeway trying to get past someone, was probably going 80, downshifted to 3rd like a dummy and then my car started jerking.

Car symptoms:

1. The car throws codes P0302, P0300, P0304 and P1399
2. Rough idle
3. sounds like there's a hole in the engine
4. When warm, car will idle too low and cut off
5. loss of power on low end
6. Seems to run ok when +2.5K RPM
7. Spark plugs had massive dry carbon deposits. I think i replaced them only 2-3 yrs, 22k-33k miles ago.

Work done:

1. Replaced spark plugs
2. Crack in OEM manifold. Replaced. Some power restored to low end and idle less rough but idle still rough, car still cuts off. ( see here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/2000-acura-integra-gsr-exhaust-manifold-question-3152697/#post48882326 )
3. Valve adjustment

From what I understand, if the manifold issue didn't fix the problem, then i should be looking at the spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor then distributor. I also understand that due to my stupid misshift I may have bent a valve or messed up the timing.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom to add or anything they can recommend based on how this happened? ( another similar issue here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/codes-p0301-p0302-p0303-p300-p1399-help-1962862/ )

fcm

I would definatly check the valve timing, the timing belt may have skipped a tooth on one of the cam gears. 94

B_Swapped93

I would lean towards mechanical timing being off, check and see. maybe compression test while you're at it.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

I did a leak down test using a POS Harbor Freight tester. First one broke b/c the % gauge was stuck. Thing is super garbage and impossible to get to 0. Gonna get an OTC one and retest next week

Cylinder 1 has 30% leak. Noise coming from Exhaust.
Cylinder 2 has 60% leak. Noise coming from the intake
Cylinder 3 has 40% leak. No real discernible noise coming from anywhere
Cylinder 4 has 60% leak. Noise coming from the exhaust


I'm assuming that while bad valve seals can affect the leakdown, having bad valve seals won't make my car throw codes, so i have bent valve, correct?

The car still runs and much better than when this issue first started so is this something I need to fix now or can i wait exactly 8 months when i get my tax return?

fcm

Have you checked valve timing, [mechanical timing] yet?

I would confirm valve timing is correct and adjust the valves, [valve lash] and I would do that now.

Who knows the problem may just be valve lash, and if it is it needs to be addressed now or you will burn valve seats. 94

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Yeah i did that too. Intakes and exhaust sides were both loose with the intake sides all being really loose. I lost my .004 feeler gauge so i had to use the .005 for the intake and it was still so loose that i wasn't getting any drag. Most of the exhaust valves were getting ever so slight drag @ with the .007 gauge so they were loose but not by much.

Once i'm done with all this i'll check the timing. Meant to do that BEFORE adjusting valves but the valve cover was already off by the time i remembered.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Realized yesterday that I received bad info from my Helm's manual. The actual valve clearances for my GSR is 17mm for intake and 19mm for exhaust. Of course I was using the B18b info

I redid all of the valve adjustments, sealed up all the exhaust leaks and now my car RUNS better than before and doesn't cut out, but it actually sounds much louder, almost like a domestic sports car or a truck. It sounds TERRIBLE now.

I'm pretty sure I have a cracked headgasket and bent valves.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for exhaust valve replacements? I'd want something that's at least as reliable as stock, but it doesn't have to give me any more power. I just need this thing to drive without turning heads ( for the wrong reasons ).

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

On a side note, i would NEVER EVER recommend the Harbor Freight Leakdown Tester. Ever. That thing was a serious piece of junk.

The first one broke on the first use. The 2nd gauge reads 100% leakdown with no air pressure. The 2nd gauge would NOT reset to 100% and the more i used it, the farther out it would reset with no air pressure. First it was 80%, then 60% and then 40%

The 2nd one i got would sometimes let me set it to 0% but then when i plug the cylinder in it would jump to 100% and stop all air from coming in. Or it would set to 0%, let me test, and when i unplugged it, it would be at like 120%. It was almost nearly impossible to line it up to 0% as even precision movement of the valve would have it jump significantly under or over 0%.

Ive heard that people say it's a good tester that just needs another precision gauge but that seems pointless since the HF leakdown tester is $40 and a good A rating gauge costs $20, you might as well get the OTC Leakdown Tester for $60.

TL: DR - Don't buy the Harbor Freight Leakdown tester, get the OTC leakdown tester from Amazon

kyden

it's not 17mm

.15mm to .19mm intake
.17mm to .21mm exhaust

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Obviously not 17.00mm clearance for your valves, lol. I meant .17

Gs-r clearance
Intake is .17mm, ±2
Exhaust is .19mm, ±2

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

I redid the valve adjustment today. It drives better but still sounds bad while accelerating, rough idle and its sluggish at low RPMs.

Is there a good thread here that shows you how to correctly check your timing?

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Ok I checked the ignition timing today and if I'm reading it right, the white mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer at 11 degrees.

So suggestions on what i should do with the timing and the timing belt?