JDM B16A

Will this work for a JDM B16A first gen?

Blue Hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will this work for a JDM B16A first gen?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, thats what i have well im not sure cause i have the CTR throttle body on a ITR IM, but it works on mine

LostGsr

I'm wondering how hard is it, to get the three bolts off the FITV with the throttle body still on the motor? Do I need to go from underneath the car to get to them?
Thanks

Blue Hybrid

on mine its really easy, you can do it just by removing the intake ram. its right there under the TB

morocco

Thanks for putting the pics back up, much appreciated

wildoutwhitegsr

jdmsiR20

good read... thanks

DB1_559

bump gonna try this

hybridej7

gonna try this also.... damn surging idle problem.....

mienboiracer209

thanks!!!...car starts up like a dream, she is sooooo quiet now


hopefully this will save me @ the pump too; (i got 160miles on a full tank, because it got real bad that the car would start up @ 3k rpm then drop when finally warm [about 10mins])

oh, would you mind if i linked this up to a local car forum?

wildoutwhitegsr

^^^ yup you can link it.

Thanks guys

del_slow420

or else buy a new tb that deletes this thing hahahaha

93CX

thank goddd finally fixed my idle. bump in case someone else needs this thread

Baron55

ok, do 98 gsr's have that....? I recently cleaned something that also controls the idle (not sure of correct name), but its at the back of the intake manifold on my 98 gsr...I just sprayed the mesh piece with brake parts cleaner and hit it with the air gun and my idle was fine after.

93CX

No.. you cleaned your IACV. The FITV is on the throttle body and is only for pre 1996ish Hondas.

spot

My car's problem is kinda weird. At cold start (only), idle will go to around 1.5k rpm and settle to around 900k rpm without any hiccups but anytime during that period and you 1. tap or step on the gas pedal 2. turn on/off the aircon wherein the compressor switches on/off, my idle goes down to around 100k for roughly 1 - 5 seconds and settles back to normal idle.

Problem described does not happen if engine is in normal temp even if you turn off and on the engine.

Did the following and problem still haunts me:
1. clean iacv
2. change fitv
3. clean tb and im

Mechanic told me it could either be the tps (i doubt since voltage reading is correct when tested) or my ecu is busted.

Need your inputs to solve my problem. Thanks.

wildoutwhitegsr

It your ignitor that's located inside your distributor. Do a search on the ignitor and you'll see what I mean.


Also it could rarely be your 02 sensor, but that's rare.

thengafish

i also have a similar problem with my idle. When i first start the car it will idle at 2k and when it warms up it might go down to 1500 rpms but than sometimes it dips down to like 2 or 300 rpms until i give it alittle gas than it goes back to 1500 what could this be

spot

Any more insights other than the ignitor? Still researching if the ignitor is causing this.

starlord

thanks...nice write up

redferio

thank you

crazybeanery0

Man, I had a very annoying idle. It would go up and down up and down from 3k to about 1k. I didn't want to take my car to a local shop because I don't trust anyone putting their hands on my car. I was searching for ways to fix my idle problem on my own and this suggestion really worked for me. My car now Idles at 2k when cold and about 1500 when its warm. My engine is an H22A and it worked out great!!

mrtrinh

Great thread, but I got a diff. problem. After driving and standing still at a RED LIGHT, or stop sign, the car shakes. You can tell esp the steering wheel. but as soon at you out it in 1st gear and give it the slight gas, the shake goes away..

This is a dEL sOL 1993 SI. Any suggestions? Timing?

weight

Excellent write up and it WORKED. Seeing as someone took the time to write this up I thought I would share my experience to assist some one else. Ours is a 1995 Integra with the 1.8. Symptons were highest fast idel was fine but when started lowering would roam up/down consistently about 2-300 rpm. When finally off car ran fine.

Intersting thing was when I took this valve all apart it was NOT that dirty at all, nothing like the pictures. Everything moved freely and was no real carbon build up. What I did notice was a fair bit of corrosion on each half and the sealing O-Rings also had corrosion on them. I took out all the orings and cleaned the grooves and rings thoroughly. I also used brake clean and sprayed inside the body including the one air hole I could see inside. I have a compressor so when done I blew everything out. I did clean the spring loaded valve but it was so clean I don't think it was the problem. I think it may have been a vaccuum leak due to corroded body halves, or the inside air hole was plugged. Reassembled and installed and it works smooth as anything. Goes to high idle and lowers very gradually and smoothly all the way down to normal idle.

Just thought I would pass this one as suspect that was a vaccum leak or dirty inside. Either way in my case it worked perfectly. This is my sons car and he doesn't know how to hold a hammer so Dad is learning all about rice fuel injection. Don't be mad but my toy is a chevy V8 - I do like the Acura though.

Many thanks for the write up.

Ralph


ao

NAmodified

nice....